E Brake Handle/disc Swap
- Thread starter billison
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Funny, someone on one of the FB groups I'm on just asked the same question.
You can do either really, but you gotta pay attention. The purpose of welding the handle is to lock the self adjuster from moving. 99 times out of 100, it will never ever move, but that one case that it does can either cause your brakes to drag, or the e-brake to slightly loosen.
The is exactly what happened with the SN95 handles on 94-01. Ford had to issue a recall because some of the self-adjusters would slip, and the manual cars would roll. The fix? To lock the self adjuster. Basically they did the same thing as welding the pawl on the fox handle mods.
Ford did the fix around 2001, so plenty of unrecalled handles out there that I personally wouldn't want in my car. I'd just rather weld it as it's cheap and I already had the handle.
Now, if you could get a cheap SN95 cobra handle, they are leather wrapped, so a bit nicer than Fox handles, but I'd prob still tack weld the pawl.
Info on the recall
http://mon.garage.free.fr/mustang2001/bulletins/00S37.pdf
You can do either really, but you gotta pay attention. The purpose of welding the handle is to lock the self adjuster from moving. 99 times out of 100, it will never ever move, but that one case that it does can either cause your brakes to drag, or the e-brake to slightly loosen.
The is exactly what happened with the SN95 handles on 94-01. Ford had to issue a recall because some of the self-adjusters would slip, and the manual cars would roll. The fix? To lock the self adjuster. Basically they did the same thing as welding the pawl on the fox handle mods.
Ford did the fix around 2001, so plenty of unrecalled handles out there that I personally wouldn't want in my car. I'd just rather weld it as it's cheap and I already had the handle.
Now, if you could get a cheap SN95 cobra handle, they are leather wrapped, so a bit nicer than Fox handles, but I'd prob still tack weld the pawl.
Info on the recall
http://mon.garage.free.fr/mustang2001/bulletins/00S37.pdf
.
HotFox
15 Year Member
I found the SN is a little larger pulley for more travel and leverage. Also it is not just a bolt in, it requires relocation of rear bolt mount.
If you have access to a welder, it takes all of 10 mins and it's back in your car. You need to use the adjustable cable underneath anyway, so there is no benefit of going SN95 unless you want one of the Cobra handles.
No, you can certainly do it on a car. I'd probably disconnect battery and pull the EEC beforehand. I just took it out because I had to install the new cables anyway. Was either to weld on a bench. Just need a small tack. Nothing crazy.
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,816
- 5,849
- 203
I took the cable bracket from under an sn95....98 I believe. Drilled the spot welds out and drilled my floor and used bolts.
The handle and extension cable came out if a 98 as well...just drilled a hole and used a nut and bolt on the handle. The bracket for the arm rest in foxes needs to be ground down to clear the longer handle assembly. Also, be prepared to drill out the few rivets that hold the armrest bracket on.
The handle and extension cable came out if a 98 as well...just drilled a hole and used a nut and bolt on the handle. The bracket for the arm rest in foxes needs to be ground down to clear the longer handle assembly. Also, be prepared to drill out the few rivets that hold the armrest bracket on.
That's more than I wanna mess with . I already got all the parts I need. Just gonna cut and weld.
You could.....
Honestly. Just bring it to a muffler shop and ask them to put a quick tack weld on it. I can't imagine them wanting much for that.
Yup. Remove the spring, cut at yellow line, set on third pawl and tack
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I used a Handbrake from a 1998 Cobra as I liked the Leather, I cut and removed the Spring and also Welded the Pawl.
Similar threads
