Engine Noise Sounds Like I Have A Vortex Wth?

The noise is a whirring / whistle like a SC..I peaked under the hood and I noticed the crank dampner is whobbling..I don't remember that making this type of racket on my 94 when it went bad..My other guess is perhaps the throw out bearing..the previous owner had a new clutch installed, but gave me a new TOB as he thought MAYBE there was something wrong with the one that was installed..So..would a bad TOB make a whirring noise that sounds like a friken Vortex from inside the vehicle??
 
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More probing with a stethoscope revealed the noise is prominent at the bellhousing so looks like I'm gonna be rring the trans..lucky me. :cool: It supposedly has a new clutch set, looking thru the dustcover I see a shiny red pressure plate that I hope isnt damaged by the tob, so maybe I can getaway with just a new tob and pilot bearing this time..I hope the T5 is ok internally and those bearings are ok..:shrug:
 
Here's hoping! I'm used to supercharger sounds coming from alternators with bad bearings, not usually from a TOB or pilot bearing, but you never know. Check the bearing retainer for scoring, that might be the source of noise / play. If it's the original aluminum one, upgrading to the steel version (available for pretty cheap) is a good thing while you're in there. Also check the fluid condition... on mine, it sounded like a semi while driving until I changed the 20 year old ATF.
 
Yes indeed joz, I've been reading how others had to undertake this task multiple times because of s#ity tob, not something I want to do again in a few months..I've had this car for 3 months and not once has it sounded like this, it had the squeal a tob makes and would alter in pitch when pushing clutch pedal down and up etc..The previous owner left a National bearing #614014 and it is not aluminum and is advertised as HD..I gotta wait till my trans adapter for my floor jack arrives next week as I'm doing this one by my lonesome..

 
This will probably be more info than you wanted, but there's a reason the TOB's fail quickly on our cars (even my original stock one got noisy by ~50k miles). The stock adjuster puts it into constant contact with the pressure plate. That means when you're revving, even out of gear, with the clutch pedal not depressed, it's going along for the ride as if you were constantly riding the clutch. Then, people with aftermarket adjusters tend to adjust them the same way, because otherwise you'll get chirping from it as it bounces off of the pressure plate fingers.

In my opinion, the best solution is an aftermarket adjuster, paired with a return spring. That way you can leave appropriate slack between the TOB and the pressure plate fingers, minimizing wear on the TOB, but the return spring keeps it from bouncing off of the fingers (which happens because there's nothing pulling the clutch fork away). This way, you'll double or triple the life of your TOB, instead of it wearing out before the friction material. In my opinion, this was an engineering oversight on the part of Ford, not necessarily low-quality TOB's.

They used to make a kit for this, google for "ldc chicago clutch freeplay correction kit." It's no longer available, but you can easily make one from hardware store parts. Here's one site that tells you how: How to make your own clutch freeplay kit - Mustang Evolution

If you do this along with replacing the bearing retainer, you might not ever have to do it again. I definitely sympathize with DIY (singular Y), the floor jack adapter should do the trick. Just make sure you get those jack-stands nice & high (I never do and then realize I can't get it under there, and wind up trying to balance on just the floor jack cup). :)
 
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This will probably be more info than you wanted, but there's a reason the TOB's fail quickly on our cars (even my original stock one got noisy by ~50k miles). The stock adjuster puts it into constant contact with the pressure plate. That means when you're revving, even out of gear, with the clutch pedal not depressed, it's going along for the ride as if you were constantly riding the clutch. Then, people with aftermarket adjusters tend to adjust them the same way, because otherwise you'll get chirping from it as it bounces off of the pressure plate fingers.

In my opinion, the best solution is an aftermarket adjuster, paired with a return spring. That way you can leave appropriate slack between the TOB and the pressure plate fingers, minimizing wear on the TOB, but the return spring keeps it from bouncing off of the fingers (which happens because there's nothing pulling the clutch fork away). This way, you'll double or triple the life of your TOB, instead of it wearing out before the friction material. In my opinion, this was an engineering oversight on the part of Ford, not necessarily low-quality TOB's.

They used to make a kit for this, google for "ldc chicago clutch freeplay correction kit." It's no longer available, but you can easily make one from hardware store parts. Here's one site that tells you how: How to make your own clutch freeplay kit - Mustang Evolution

If you do this along with replacing the bearing retainer, you might not ever have to do it again. I definitely sympathize with DIY (singular Y), the floor jack adapter should do the trick. Just make sure you get those jack-stands nice & high (I never do and then realize I can't get it under there, and wind up trying to balance on just the floor jack cup). :)

On the contrary I appreciate any and all info :nice: and I already have a Steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster in a shopping cart at Summits, the cable is brand new from the previous owner so I'd like to reuse if I can, not having to buy a cable allows me to include a nice T handle shifter :banana:..I haven't paid for it yet.. was wondering if I should pull the trigger on these Steeda items? I'm also going to take your advice and run down to Lowes and scoop the parts to fab the return kit..Anything that keeps this broken down body from having to crawl underneath the car again is a good thing lol. Thanks for the heads up and link on that as well ! :flag:
 
I don't want to tell you whether or not you should buy the parts, but I, like you, like to spend as little time on my back as possible when I can avoid it. If you still have the original plastic quadrant, it will strip and wear out someday (as they have on most fox-bodies) so it's good from a preventative standpoint too. Replacing a TOB is almost all of the work of a full clutch job, so from my viewpoint it's worth the money to avoid it.

I actually changed my quadrant and adjuster a little after I did my clutch. It turned out that was a smart thing because I would have thought I'd done something wrong with the clutch installation because of the return-spring issue (the chirping). So it's also ok to run for a while with the stock adjuster, then swap it out when you feel like it. A good TOB shouldn't self-destruct with the stock adjuster for quite some time anyways. So I wouldn't call any of this 'mandatory,' just a nice upgrade in my opinion.

Now a nice short-throw shifter and a quality handle, that changes the whole feel of your ride. :)
 
I never had this issue with my 94. I got extremely fortunate because it already had the Tremec 3550 in it and a new KC clutch and Pro5.0 shifter and worked well on the street and track for 6 years before I had to sell it. This is my first go around with the T5 and getting to know its quirks and problems and fixes like you posted before..I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster and handle. I'm trying to find a decent used shorty shifter too.My kid said he'd be able to come out and help in a few days, so perhaps we can install my new headers too! Heck if he and the grandkids can stay for the whole weekend, I got 4 Ford C-springs to install as well..Might have to load up on Redbull, Gotta take advantage when I can lol.
 
For what its worth, the T5 isn't very heavy and can be removed by hand on ones back.
i always disconnect it from the bellhousing and remove them as two separate pieces.
Yeah they're about 80 lbs. dry I think. Getting it down is pretty easy (dropping 80 lbs. of grease-covered metal on your head would still end up badly), getting it back up and mounted is another story without a decent jack, or at least a 2nd set of hands.
 
Guess it depends on the person.
i would remove and install one all the time when my mustang was still alive.

For sure I'm removing it in 2 pieces, slow and steady too lol. I remember the days when I'd be able to muscle things around more. I was super fast and made good $$. I enjoyed working in the shops..I have to take extra caution nowadays as I developed problems with my hands back in 06..circulation problems led to my right index finger being cut off, then a diagnosis of a rare illness.
You may see late night commercials for lawyers seeking clients in the many industries affected lol.
Hand dexterity is :poo:ty and lost some sensations in a few fingertips.. I mention this to you guys as a cautionary tale as me and my many docs suspect it came about from all the chemical exposure in a 32 year period of working on vehicles..Use gloves, and breathers guys, everything we smear, spray breathe is toxic over time..

Anyway, back on topic.. I'm a little perplexed right now..The cars been sitting for 4-5 days, and I started it up and no noise..drove it around town..no noise..drove it 16 miles ..no noise..until I got home and was parking it and pushed the clutch peddle down and then it sounded like ..a semi truck whose brake shoes were rubbing bad!..but did it only once..I wonder if the new clutch cable is binding every now and then?..If it's the cable causing all this fuss, that would be a relief..anyways thanks for replies..
 
Glad you went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster!

I have them installed in my Cobra. I went with a Steeda tri ax short shifter over 5 years ago and haven't had an issue.