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So, yall lead the new guys to believe that they all need maximum motorsports full suspension and a motor than can rev to 8k even if they're building a grocery getter.
I appogize about the chain "breaking" that was based on an experience with a car w a belt that broke. All I was getting at was since he's tearing it apart he might as well replace just incase. When's the next time he's gonna have the timing cover off? So yall've never seen any malfunction in the timing chain or gears? Built Ford tough huh?
When the op is emphasizing that the sky is basically the limit then the direction that is gonna be pointed is the most stout setup for his money . I agree the chain should be changed no doubt about it . And no I've never seen a chain broken I've seen tensioners fail and jump time on mod motors . Everybody has to start some where we all did but advice is just that advice from people who have been there and done it . If I didn't think I knew everything and listened to what I was told from the start I would've saved 10-15k on what I have in my car and did it once . But we all live and learn . Some people are just trying to save others a headache. If it means waiting 6 extra months and spending extra money so be it if it's gonna be done right .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
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So, yall lead the new guys to believe that they all need maximum motorsports full suspension and a motor than can rev to 8k even if they're building a grocery getter.
I appogize about the chain "breaking" that was based on an experience with a car w a belt that broke. All I was getting at was since he's tearing it apart he might as well replace just incase. When's the next time he's gonna have the timing cover off? So yall've never seen any malfunction in the timing chain or gears? Built Ford tough huh?

Your derog comments were unnecessary, consider yourself warned. There is a difference between telling somebody they're wrong, (in your opinion) and to eat sht. Language of that nature, used in that context isn't tolerated.

Chains stretch, belts break, one is made of rubber, the other is made of steel. People replace chains after they show evidence of slack, (significant slack), ignoring a high mile timing belt when the cover is off is a future bad day at Black Rock.
(But then again, No V8 Mustang has ever had a timing belt, so why even bring it up?)

As a rule to live by follow my example:

I don't know anything about factory ford EFI, I don't know anything about the factory ford ECU, or any of the complications that come from it when it acts up.

Therefore I do not comment, on what I do not know.
 
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I appreciate all the feedback and take all seriously and into consideration as I'm a noob lookin for advice from those more experienced than me, thank you. That said, I'm gonna list off the parts I do have as of now and ask if you think it's time to pull the engine:
Almn.heads,up/low intake, pushrods, cam, r.rockers, time gear set/chain(lol), vortech v3sci...
Safe to say its time to pull Lé motor?
 
You can use all those parts without pulling the motor. You will have to pull the radiator,and obviously all the front engine accessories. You still will need to address the fuel system,MAF,and throttle body. Also after you've installed everything I highly recommend getting a tune.
 
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That's awesome, thought I would need to for the cam! Fuel pump/inj, ignition, tbody, etc. has not been overlooked... I'm still torn between Megasquirt or maf! Both require tunes obviously but still not overlooked
 
So... Equal length, shorty, long tube, etc... Will you notice a considerable difference in performance? Sound ain't too important... Price is a factor as I don't have a lot of loot. Most of you know my plan so let me know what ya thunk!
 
So... Equal length, shorty, long tube, etc... Will you notice a considerable difference in performance? Sound ain't too important... Price is a factor as I don't have a lot of loot. Most of you know my plan so let me know what ya thunk!
Long tubes are gonna have the most gain. Look for used ones on here and corral.


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I got my BBK 1 5/8 chrome long tubes bnib for 225$ off a guy on the corral. I highly recommend going over there and looking for parts. Saves some $ on a few items from there.
 
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any header designed for the factory bolt pattern and layout will work with those heads, they are built to be a bolt-in replacement in that regard. its when you start getting into the really big heads (tfs high-ports or r's, big afr's, etc) that header mounting changes.
 
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Here's my take on headers. Unless you really plan on racing the car, go with shorty headers. I know everyone says LT headers are worth 20-30hp gain, but for a street car shorty's are so much easier for install, if you ever need to service the starter or trans.

I've had both on many mustangs, and I can only speak of my personal experience. Before and after dyno results had minimal gains after installing LT headers.. For reference, they picked up 8-11 hp

Long Tube vs. Shorty Headers - Pipe Dreams

Short & Long-Tube Headers Test - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine
 
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