First Time Restoration, 67 Coupe

[yooper2112]

Greetings,

I wanted to introduce my project stang to you guys in the hopes that it would be a good conduit for me to ask you all questions as i progress. I bought this 67 C code, P/S car when i got back from overseas 1.5 years ago with the hopes of fixing her up as a restomod DD. Here is how she sits today.

That picture was taken back in October before i brought her to the body shop to get all the metal work done and paint and so fourth since i have very limited knowledge or facilities to do that work. Unfortunately, like many others, I fell into the hands of a unscrupulous body man and the shop ended up shutting down and taking my deposit with them.

Now that i am on a shoe string budget, i can't afford a new body shop so i will be attempting to do the body work myself. Below is a snapshot of some of the major problems.

Collision damage front apron

Battery tray rot

Door shell rot on both doors

Floor board rot

Over the next few weeks i will be purchasing a MIG (Holbart 140) to do the metal work. I have no experience with a MIG, just a stick welder so i will focus my efforts on the floor boards first where it is less visible. I wanted to create this thread so that i don't have to create multiple threads to ask questions when i come to a point where i don't know how to proceed. Expect more pics to come followed with questions from me. Please let me know what you guys think and any pointers along the way would be great. If you have any questions, i will answer the best that i can. Thanks for your time.

V/R

Mike

 

[horse sence]

If you have welding abilities it will not be that big of a problem .Take measurements before you remove any inner fender aprons .I would do a complete replacement of both inner front aprons . The rear floor doesn't look real bad but that is a lot of pin holes to fill so i would do a short patch there .The doors are probably rotted from the inside out so they need to be cut out and filled in with new metal ,they have a grain to the surface, but the area that is rotted is not seen so that really will not matter .Get good replacement panels such as Dunacorn ,the cheaper panels do not have the fender mounting holes and the cheaper panels that do will not line up with the fenders . Teaching your self to weld is easier than you may think ,just look up @candphall, he taught his self to weld through welding videos .

 

[Kkroeker]

I'll be watching! So post up.
I'm going to try the same thing as you except I don't have my 66 stang close yet to start the the tear down. It's still at the in laws.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[candphall]

Welcome yooper212. I to was in your situation about three years ago when I decided to restore my 69 fastback. It was through the encouragement of members on this site that I gained the confidence to do the work myself. I never welded but I can now it is one of many skills that this process has taught me. There are many on this site who do amazing impeccable work. Rusy428 and horsesence are great examples. However when viewing there work it is easy to become intimidated. But press on, as you make progress the satisfaction of what you accomplished will overshadow any flaws in your workmanship. I can't wait to follow your buil.

 

[yooper2112]

Thanks for the input guys. Just placed an order today on a MIG so it should be here in a little over a week. Got the Hobart 140 kit for $120 off so not a bad deal i think. I will keep you updated on my progress after it gets here.

 

[Darrell67topless]

I just finished having all of the bodywork done and now ready for the suspension - what is going to be your choice

 

[RacerJames]

Suspension is so dependent on what you plan to do with the car.
I want just a bit of rake, along with reliability, durability, and easy to locate replacement parts. My '67 is going with stock suspension but I am attempting a Jeep power steering gear to replace the original ram, centerlink etc. I am also adding Granada disc brakes, and I will do the Shelby upper control arm relocation. these mods should give me all the things I listed above.

 

[candphall]

Looking good Yooper. Here is my view on suspension, if you want a Mustang that will corner and perform up to you expectations. Buy a 2012 or later. In my opinion you can rework an original suspensions only so much using aftermarket parts, the return on investment is a minimal gain in performance. In addition all of the fitment issues, turning radius issues, tire offset etc. can be areal hassle. So rebuild the original set it to factory specs and drive. Just my two cents worth.

 

[Raul Esparza]

I'm also working on a 67' coupe. Only I made the mistake of removing the shock towers and fender aprons. Now I'm in great need of the dimensions for those parts. Can any of you point me in the right direction?

 

[horse sence]

I'm also working on a 67' coupe. Only I made the mistake of removing the shock towers and fender aprons. Now I'm in great need of the dimensions for those parts. Can any of you point me in the right direction?

Start you a thread and we will help you out .

 

[Cool Beans]

Mine isn't a restoration, more of a "Hit it with the pressure washer then paint it fun to drive project" lol. . .

If it helps any. . .my car is a 289/c6. When I got my car, the front and rear suspension was stock/original. If you whipped the wheel back and forth while driving it rolled like a fishing boat on the water. . .

I rebuilt the front end to stock, 1" after market sway bar, monte carlo bar, export brace, and next step heavier on the rear springs and she it tight! Now when you whip the wheel back and forth she stays almost flat. For a drive around town for fun car, I'm impressed. And it wasn't that expensive.

Just sharing my experience.