To do it correctly, you must physically remove all the components and cap the hole on the egr plate. To turn off the CEL and have the EEC bypass the function it must be turned off by way of a custom tuner/chip. However as stated, it really doesnt make any performance difference to remove it so the best option is to fix the issue. I removed mine to clean up the bay a little bit.I have the heads off and decided to delete the EGR, but I want to do it right.
What all is needed to successfully delete the EGR?
Thanks guys/gals.
There is no problem with my EGR.
Ed Curtis at FTI wants me to, and I believe he knows what he is talking about.
I do have the EGR eliminator plug and delete plate.
I can only guess that I need to block the EGR ports on the heads and remove the EGR piece.
Thanks for the thoughts thus far.
I'd research what exactly the plug does. If it tricks the EEC into thinking it's working, i would not use it. I'd rather let the CEL glow and the EEC remove the function than take a risk in running lean at cruise.
You could either buy the kit from fordfuelinjection.com as BigPhil147 mentioned, or make your own. All you need is to buy (1) 390 Ω 1/2 Watt resistor and (2) 3.9K Ω 1/2 Watt resistors from Radio Shack, to make a resistors triangle and connect it to the EVP sensor as shown below....
And (4) 75 Ω 3-Watt resistor for the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids and install one at each solenoid plug as shown below.
As long as an EGR related failure code (31, 32, 33, 34, 8x) is logged in the system......its function will be deleted or bypassed by the EEC-IV....no need to reprogram the ECM for something it does on its own. The added spark timing advance due to the EGR function, will not be "applied" @part-throttle. The only code present after the resistors installation should be 33, which does not cause the CEL to turn on.