For me the big turn off is filler needing to go out on first. So epoxy seems more user friendly.
Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
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For me the big turn off is filler needing to go out on first. So epoxy seems more user friendly.
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I would mostly agree with that statement. Don't mix etch with the epoxy though. The epoxy doesn't like the acid.
I would hang them so they are vertical, similar to what they'll be on the car. Helps to have an even peel on the surface that way.
I have been posting in my regular thread about my blue car and the work I've been doing to it.
If y'all are crazy enough to do what I'm doing, I'll help you out. Here are the pictures of just my door from getting it to completion. I won't have too much of a running commentary with it. Just ask me any questions you might have about whatever step. The only caveat to that is I tore the door down and that I welded up the holes along top of the door because this is a door off of a convertible and they have different trim than a t-top.
If y'all are crazy enough to do what I'm doing, I'll help you out. Here are the pictures of just my door from getting it to completion. I won't have too much of a running commentary with it. Just ask me any questions you might have about whatever step. The only caveat to that is I tore the door down and that I welded up the holes along top of the door because this is a door off of a convertible and they have different trim than a t-top.
OK Dave,.....I gotta question...
On interior plastic panels that I'm getting ready to color change.
#1. I've had to repair the plastic where there were chinks missing w/ fiberglass. That has netted a smooth finish where every thing else has a texture. How do I replicate the texture of the panel?
#2. What (besides thoroughly cleaning the panel w/ Dawn, then followed by a wax/grease remover) do I need to insure that I have the best adhesion? Seems every time I've used the supposed vinyl "Dyes", they aren't any more durable than if I had sprayed the things in rattle can lacquer.
I'm using a spray-able SEM product,...I also have cans of stuff labeled as "adhesion promoter".....
What should I do here Chief?
On interior plastic panels that I'm getting ready to color change.
#1. I've had to repair the plastic where there were chinks missing w/ fiberglass. That has netted a smooth finish where every thing else has a texture. How do I replicate the texture of the panel?
#2. What (besides thoroughly cleaning the panel w/ Dawn, then followed by a wax/grease remover) do I need to insure that I have the best adhesion? Seems every time I've used the supposed vinyl "Dyes", they aren't any more durable than if I had sprayed the things in rattle can lacquer.
I'm using a spray-able SEM product,...I also have cans of stuff labeled as "adhesion promoter".....
What should I do here Chief?
For number one: 3M and SEM both have a spray texturing. It comes in different levels of texture. Anything from barely noticeable to really rough. Take a piece of the interior with you to show whomever you're buying from what degree of texturing you want. It comes in both a rattle can or a can you spray through a gun.
Number 2: You need to use a plastic adhesion promoter. You say you have some adhesion promoter, make sure it's for plastics. There's crap out there that supposedly will help paint stick to any surface. Load of crap. Plastic adhesion promoter. It's sold at Oreilly's or any other store that sells automotive paint. You can get a rattle can of it.
SEM products are good. Just do what they recommend for their system.
Pretty much. Yes before primer.
We used to have to different plastic adhesion promoters for the two main types of plastic used in making bumper covers. There were two different ways to tell which plastic we had, one: we would burn a small piece of the plastic cut from the panel. If it burned smoky, we'd use one type of adhesion promoter, if it burned clear, we'd use the other. The second: small piece of plastic in a cup of water, if it floated, one AP, it sank, the other.
Now, we just have one type of adhesion promoter that works with either.
Like I told Mike though, use a plastic adhesion promoter. NOT a can that just say adhesion promoter.
BTW, the adhesion promoter provides a chemical bond to the plastic. You still want the mechanical bond (sand the part). But the chemical bond allows the molecules of the plastic and the coating you put on it to bond, in other words, stick.
So do you etch prime the urethane parts still after adhesion promoter or do you do adhesion/build/seal/color?
And another question while I'm thinking about it. I know you had those doors blasted all around, but if you hadn't and there was still factory paint on the back side of those doors (or the inside of the car), what would the process be? Feather out the old stuff, or just scuff it and prime over it?
And another question while I'm thinking about it. I know you had those doors blasted all around, but if you hadn't and there was still factory paint on the back side of those doors (or the inside of the car), what would the process be? Feather out the old stuff, or just scuff it and prime over it?
Etch primer is used just for bonding to bare metal.
On the bumpers for my '83, I will use adhesion promoter (AP), primer, sealer, base, clear. With all the prerequisite sanding, of course.
A new raw plastic bumper doesn't necessarily require primer. At work, unless there is damage to the new bumper, I'll just AP, seal, color, clear them.
Remember the AP is used in conjunction with sanding for the bonding process.
The jambs of the doors, or any of the panels for that matter, can be scuffed and sealed, based, cleared.
On my panels, the seam sealer was breaking up and coming off the jambs. My door had a little rot in the lower jamb section where the outer panel folds over the inner structure. I stripped the seam sealer prior to blasting and repaired the sections that had the rot, then primered.
Had the jambs been fine, I could have just used a red scotchbrite to scuff them prior to paint. If they had some small damage, I could just repair that, primer if needed and go on with the refinish process.
I'm wanting all my panels to just have this one paint job on them though, so what I'm doing is a little overkill.
I got the very can of the stuff you're talking about. But I have fiberglass repairs that need finishing (pinholes,....slight imperfections) don't I have to prime that stuff as well w/ regular ol primer?
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So, you may remember the pictures of my "cave-n-pave" rear quarter panel from earlier in the thread. In working on the car, I've realized that the whole front end is pushed to the drivers side. The kinks in the aprons confirmed my suspicion. I talked to a buddy who had a "shell that i could cut the quarter out of". I went to talk to him last weekend about getting the quarter. Turns out the "shell" is a 90 GT. Perfect body, hatch, doors, and all glass.. No front sheetmetal, but the aprons are DEAD STRAIGHT. It has a GT inner bumper with both foglights/brackets. No engine, but still has a T5 hanging in it. Theres also a Moser axled, 5 lug swapped rear end, a set of front coilovers, and he thinks he still has the 5lug stuff for the front. Oh, and it has a clean title with it. I ended up agreeing to give him $100 for the whole thing. I'm hoping to go get it this weekend if i can borrow a truck/trailer. I plan on stripping the shell and painting it, and then swapping my interior/ drivetrain/ etc over into the shell. Should make a lot nicer car than what i've got right now. I'll post pics when I get it 
What a freaking deal! Good job man. You're doing exactly what I would do in that situation.So, you may remember the pictures of my "cave-n-pave" rear quarter panel from earlier in the thread. In working on the car, I've realized that the whole front end is pushed to the drivers side. The kinks in the aprons confirmed my suspicion. I talked to a buddy who had a "shell that i could cut the quarter out of". I went to talk to him last weekend about getting the quarter. Turns out the "shell" is a 90 GT. Perfect body, hatch, doors, and all glass.. No front sheetmetal, but the aprons are DEAD STRAIGHT. It has a GT inner bumper with both foglights/brackets. No engine, but still has a T5 hanging in it. Theres also a Moser axled, 5 lug swapped rear end, a set of front coilovers, and he thinks he still has the 5lug stuff for the front. Oh, and it has a clean title with it. I ended up agreeing to give him $100 for the whole thing. I'm hoping to go get it this weekend if i can borrow a truck/trailer. I plan on stripping the shell and painting it, and then swapping my interior/ drivetrain/ etc over into the shell. Should make a lot nicer car than what i've got right now. I'll post pics when I get it
Yeah, pictures would be great.
Thanks @Davedacarpainter . Can anybody point me to the thread with the awesome 4eyed burgundy car that the guy built for his wife? Its the one with the widened rear 03 anniversary wheels. I need to copy the "landing gear" he made to roll the front around.
