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logancamp

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May 20, 2013
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So while surfing the internet I came across this stuff stage 2 patriot heads comp 262's 600lb springs ready to install a port matched professional products lower all the gaskets an a sct 3 with a custom tune ready to go did I get a good deal an will I need to upgrade my injectors
 

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So while surfing the internet I came across this stuff stage 2 patriot heads comp 262's 600lb springs ready to install a port matched professional products lower all the gaskets an a sct 3 with a custom tune ready to go did I get a good deal an will I need to upgrade my injectors
Yea you will need 24s and a matched MAF sensor. You might also wanna go ahead and do headers at the same time.
 
Save yourself the headache and do the Bassani mid length headers at the same time. It is soo much easier since you'll already have the engine apart. Trust me, headers are a pain in the a$$ to do on these cars. But if you can't for whatever reason, then don't sweat it. When are you doing the install?
 
I was going to start tonight but will have to wait till next weekend I am like you its a pain to get to the headers if the bassani ones weren't 640$ I would already have them an I don't want any other brand cause the mid length headers go hand in hand with their x pipe I can't wait to hear it o an I got some 410s an eibach pro springs I got a lot of work to do lol
 
It came off a turbo car the guy said a turbo spring broke an he went from 12psi to about 30psi an a rod an the crank was history so he got a mangled 03 cobra an is swapping out the drive train I lucked out
 
So I'm in the middle of it now valve covers are off headers are free get the electric fan crank pully off an the timing chain cover lose tomorrow evening an then the rest of the factory stuff Tuesday hope to be close to done by Thursday
 

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It's very tight in these cars an have found my self scratching my head a few times but it will be worth it when I run it down the road the first time
 

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Did you degree the cams in?

Hope you got some ARP head bolts...

They're not really necessary. 03/04 Cobra guys have the same TTY-style bolts that 2-valves do, and they regularly push 20+ pounds of boost and 700+ rwhp on stock bolts. Besides, every time you remove the bolts (which you have to trash), you also have to trash the head gaskets. And when I did my rebuild, I found that just a set of gaskets is about $80 if you're resourceful, while the entire FRPP head install kit (which is head gaskets, head bolts, and exhaust manifold gaskets) is only $10 more. So considering exhaust gaskets are around $10 also, the head bolts are actually free, which makes it hard to justify a $300 investment in ARP bolts/studs if you're not making enough power to need them (OP isn't even close).
 
Did you degree the cams in?



They're not really necessary. 03/04 Cobra guys have the same TTY-style bolts that 2-valves do, and they regularly push 20+ pounds of boost and 700+ rwhp on stock bolts. Besides, every time you remove the bolts (which you have to trash), you also have to trash the head gaskets. And when I did my rebuild, I found that just a set of gaskets is about $80 if you're resourceful, while the entire FRPP head install kit (which is head gaskets, head bolts, and exhaust manifold gaskets) is only $10 more. So considering exhaust gaskets are around $10 also, the head bolts are actually free, which makes it hard to justify a $300 investment in ARP bolts/studs if you're not making enough power to need them (OP isn't even close).
When I made that post I was under the impression that OP was doing the work with the engine still in the car. Last I remember the TTY bolts are difficult to impossible to put in while the engine is still in the car. So that's why I brought up ARP head bolts. They would be much easier to install.
 
Yep your right i did it with the engine in the car an used bolts I had to get 3 on the driver side an 2 on the passenger side with vice grips to keep them above the deck an yet low enough to clear the brake booster as I lowered them in hard job by your self of course I forgot to put the dipstick thro the header before hand so I got a flexible one on the way and bassani mid lengths are going on asap
 
When I made that post I was under the impression that OP was doing the work with the engine still in the car. Last I remember the TTY bolts are difficult to impossible to put in while the engine is still in the car. So that's why I brought up ARP head bolts. They would be much easier to install.

I might be missing something, but what difference would that make?

Yep your right i did it with the engine in the car an used bolts I had to get 3 on the driver side an 2 on the passenger side with vice grips to keep them above the deck an yet low enough to clear the brake booster as I lowered them in hard job by your self of course I forgot to put the dipstick thro the header before hand so I got a flexible one on the way and bassani mid lengths are going on asap

Did you not get the FRPP head changing kit? It comes with little pieces of hose that are used to hold the bolts up.