1956 F100 Gets New Rear.

Thats what Mr Bad Influence sold me on, and I honestly love it (and he didnt end up buying one). You have so much control, tuning on the fly, and cool features like push button or paddle manual shifting. But then you can put it right back in auto mode when you dont feel like shifting anymore. I personally think it was worth every penny.
 
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I bought the Quick 1 straight from Baumann Electronic Controls. IIRC, it was about $700. You will need a carb with electric choke to mount the TPS to. Aside from that, you can do the tuning either on a laptop hooked up to it, or just straight on controller using the knob. I think the guy at Baumann is named Kevin, and he was really helpful with my questions.
 
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Controller. Unfortunately there is no cheap way to do this. I am looking at a baumann system but i am still a little ways from that decision.
There is a cheap way, it just depends on whether or not you want to manually shift the trans all the time.
The cheap way involves a Transgo valvebody reprogramming kit. You modify the valvebody as per the instructions, and drill the case for a vacuum line that is ported to intake manifold vacuum. That vacuum line goes to a vacuum modulator that is part of the kit that replaces the Electronic shift valve inside the trans, and is fitted to the valvebody. The only electronics required after the reprogramming kit is installed is a on/off switch to engage O/D, and lock up the converter.
Now I'm not gonna name any names here, but some people just plod along w/o looking into stuff (Nick), and go pouring money out on the ground (Nick), before checking out all of their options. Those same people, (Nick) then travel all over Ethiopia, (Iowa) Looking for obscure, hard to find parts like 164 tooth flexplate, and midplate dividers (Nick) instead of just cutting and welding the starter into the correct position on the plate, or doing away w/ the divider plate altogether, and just using the little Autozone starter locator rings that could be bought for 10 bucks. Then those same people (Nick) start a thread stating that some other people (me), lead them down the wrong path based on partial information that I supposedly provided. all while coming around at the end and deciding that they, (Nick) in fact LOVE the parts that they, (Nick) bought based on my, (Michael L. Matkosky,...resident expert on all things that have anything to do with 4R70W related) advice.
 
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There is a cheap way, it just depends on whether or not you want to manually shift the trans all the time.
The cheap way involves a Transgo valvebody reprogramming kit. You modify the valvebody as per the instructions, and drill the case for a vacuum line that is ported to intake manifold vacuum. That vacuum line goes to a vacuum modulator that is part of the kit that replaces the Electronic shift valve inside the trans, and is fitted to the valvebody. The only electronics required after the reprogramming kit is installed is a on/off switch to engage O/D, and lock up the converter.
Now I'm not gonna name any names here, but some people just plod along w/o looking into stuff (Nick), and go pouring money out on the ground (Nick), before checking out all of their options. Those same people, (Nick) then travel all over Ethiopia, (Iowa) Looking for obscure, hard to find parts like 164 tooth flexplate, and midplate dividers (Nick) instead of just cutting and welding the starter into the correct position on the plate, or doing away w/ the divider plate altogether, and just using the little Autozone starter locator rings that could be bought for 10 bucks. Then those same people (Nick) start a thread stating that some other people (me), lead them down the wrong path based on partial information that I supposedly provided. all while coming around at the end and deciding that they, (Nick) in fact LOVE the parts that they, (Nick) bought based on my, (Michael L. Matkosky,...resident expert on all things that have anything to do with 4R70W related) advice.

:lol:
 
Do you see why he is such a bad influence? After basically bashing me to all hell, I cant help but like and trust him! And even if I knew the "cheap" Transgo way to go, I removed a manual shifting C6 and havent looked back. Thats all fun and well, but being the truck is my winter DD, it got old quick and I wouldnt have replicated it.
 
Do you see why he is such a bad influence? After basically bashing me to all hell, I cant help but like and trust him! And even if I knew the "cheap" Transgo way to go, I removed a manual shifting C6 and havent looked back. Thats all fun and well, but being the truck is my winter DD, it got old quick and I wouldnt have replicated it.

Bashing???? What part of the above isn't based on fact?
 
Ha that was awesome. I did read some of that Alabama crazy....... thread but must admit I did not read all of it.

I want the convenience of a normal working or transmission so if I have to fork over the dinero for the controller, I'm good with it. I'll have to reread back into the flexplate starter debacle though. Maybe I didn't read that part and will pay for it later ha
 
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You just need a specific flywheel to mate up to the TC and starter. I think I have the part number in my thread, but will find it and post it in here for ya so you dont have to go diggin around through it.
As for you Mr. Matkosky @madmike1157, I will clutter up your thread with our influence talk rather than Old_Blue's.
 
If you could find that part number that would be great. Now, the torque converter came stock in this trans, will this work or do I need a different one? I only ask as you or mike mention a fly wheel with a certain bolt pattern for the torque converter.
 
If you could find that part number that would be great. Now, the torque converter came stock in this trans, will this work or do I need a different one? I only ask as you or mike mention a fly wheel with a certain bolt pattern for the torque converter.
You need a 164t flywheel. As a direct result of that, the TC mount bolt holes should be in the correct spacing for your gigantic, 73 thousand pound torque converter. The typical SBF tooth count is 157. Given that it looks like you are intending to use a 351W as your engine, additionally, you'll need one w/ a 28oz imbalance weight on it.
like this one, and it can be had from the convenience of your overstuffed, reclining, Lazyboy recliner:
bmm-50237_yj_ml.jpg

B&M Flexplates 50237 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
 
PM'd you the part numbers I used for a couple pieces. I will climb under the truck and take a look at my starter to see what I can see, when it gets warmer. As far as I can tell, we have a little bit of time before you will need it.
 
Thanks for the reminder. I was going to buy a 4 link universal package minus the coil overs. I thought it would be cost effective but when compared to just buying spring perches for leaf springs it wasn't even close. Maybe later

The other deciding factor was, wanted to be realistic about getting this thing on the road this year. I bought the perches and new u bolts but still need to cut the old hardware from the 8.8. I have a plasma cutter the I have never used so this will be interesting.
 
Thanks for the reminder. I was going to buy a 4 link universal package minus the coil overs. I thought it would be cost effective but when compared to just buying spring perches for leaf springs it wasn't even close. Maybe later

The other deciding factor was, wanted to be realistic about getting this thing on the road this year. I bought the perches and new u bolts but still need to cut the old hardware from the 8.8. I have a plasma cutter the I have never used so this will be interesting.

The words of wisdom here is do not let the spring perches be the first thing (of significant thickness) you try and cut w/ the PC. All it takes is a slight angle discrepancy to cut more than you want (i.e. the axle tube) :eek:
Of course the safe approach would be to angle the cutting tip up higher off the tube, but then you'll have to grind what's left.

I have one, and would use it in a second for exactly what you are needing it to do. But a plasma arc sometimes goes where it wants to go, so be advised.
 
Thanks. I have a crown Vic rear end with a ton of brackets. The main ones are perpendicular to the rear end and won't be an issue. They will still need to be ground off. The others are way to close and I wasn't even going to chance using the PC.
 
Madmike's experience and knowledge is getting the better of me and I have decided not to use the plasma cutter on these brackets. Not only am I worried about the bracket being attached to the tube, but also the calipers and rotors are still on the rear end which I can see being a problem. I am going to breaking out the angle grinder with a cutting disc and then grind off the remainder. Time consumer for sure, but in my mind its the safest bet.