Help Needed- 95 Mustang Gt Intermittent Cold Start Issue, Rpm Drop Randomly On Highway

[camaroguy72]

Hi guys. I'm looking for a little diagnosis help before I go throw a bunch of part at this problem.

A little history.

CAR has had a slight whine from the rear , possibly fuel pump, in the past 2 months that I've owned the car.
The IAC was acting up until I cleaned and reinstalled it, idle is much better
Upon removal of the IAC the vacuum lines attached to the little connector all broke, so I spliced them together with new rubber lines which took care of the check engine light.
The temperature gauge for the coolant on the dash always reads really low, sometimes it comes up to normal but rarely.
Alternator pulley squeaks, but the car appears to charge just fine. The starts are always a little slow, but it always starts.


Now this past weekend, I had the car in the garage while changing the oil. I went to start the car and it would just not start after numerous attempts to crank t up for a few seconds each time. I unplugged the negative battery cable and reconnected it and the car started. It has been driving fine all week until tonight. My fiancé was downtown and went to start the car but it would not start after sitting for a little over 3 hours . She finally got it started, shut it off at the gas station and started it back up no problem. While on the highway, the rpm's dropped drastically about 2 times in a short period, but the car did not stall. Any thoughts as to what the issue here could be?

 

[90lxwhite]

Hi guys. I'm looking for a little diagnosis help before I go throw a bunch of part at this problem.

A little history.

CAR has had a slight whine from the rear , possibly fuel pump, in the past 2 months that I've owned the car.
The IAC was acting up until I cleaned and reinstalled it, idle is much better
Upon removal of the IAC the vacuum lines attached to the little connector all broke, so I spliced them together with new rubber lines which took care of the check engine light.
The temperature gauge for the coolant on the dash always reads really low, sometimes it comes up to normal but rarely.
Alternator pulley squeaks, but the car appears to charge just fine. The starts are always a little slow, but it always starts.


Now this past weekend, I had the car in the garage while changing the oil. I went to start the car and it would just not start after numerous attempts to crank t up for a few seconds each time. I unplugged the negative battery cable and reconnected it and the car started. It has been driving fine all week until tonight. My fiancé was downtown and went to start the car but it would not start after sitting for a little over 3 hours . She finally got it started, shut it off at the gas station and started it back up no problem. While on the highway, the rpm's dropped drastically about 2 times in a short period, but the car did not stall. Any thoughts as to what the issue here could be?

alternator

 

[camaroguy72]

that's on the replacement list for this weekend, so hopefully it resolves the issue. Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[Chythar]

I'm guessing it's the CCRM. I had something similar happen on my 94 V6, and it was the engine relay inside the CCRM. Basically, all electrical power to the engine was getting cut off, so the engine would crank but wouldn't start. If the relay opened while driving, RPM's would drop and the gas pedal had no effect on them. RPM's would drop until the engine "died". Sometimes I could restart the engine while moving, other times I had to pull to the side of the road and wait a while.

Unfortunately, the relays in the CCRM are not individually serviceable. If you have a friend's CCRM you can borrow, from a 94-95 GT or Cobra, give it a shot.

 

[toyman]

I'm willing to bet at the end of the day it will be the PIP (Hall Effect Sensor). In any event the op needs to remove and clean the battery to engine and engine to chassis ground terminals. Same for the battery to fuse block terminals. Then he needs to pull the DTCs to see what events the ECU has logged.

 

[90lxwhite]

It's gonna be the alternator. Who's placing bets?

 

[Chythar]

I'll ante up 100 Internets for the CCRM. XD

 

[94GTCoupe]

I'm with toyman.

 

[90lxwhite]

that's on the replacement list for this weekend, so hopefully it resolves the issue. Thanks for the quick reply!

And the verdict?

 

[camaroguy72]

Well, here's an update.

The check engine light flashes when you turn the car on, but does not stay on when running.
I pulled the codes and got a few, listed below.

KOEO
111 - System Pass
543 - When the PCM commanded the fuel pump on, voltage was not detected on FPM

KOER
172 - o2 Sensor sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side)
136 - o2 Sensor circuit indicates system lean (left side)

Engine Balance
9 flashes (so all OK)

I replaced the squeaky alternator and charging system checks out OK. Had Autozone run the diagnostic and he said the starter circuit is showing issues, so either starter or wiring causing slow start condition. I was going to check the grounds this weekend. The car has always started slow since I've owned it, I thought maybe weak battery but the battery checked out to be OK.. hence he recommended checking the grounds and cleaning them.

The car drove fine all weekend, drove it a few hundred miles without a hiccup. This week, it's been acting up again. When starting, it would idle high, buck once or twice, but generally would run OK. When I push the clutch in, the revs go up when it's running poor. Sometimes it will have a high idle, sometimes it will drive just fine and idle just fine.

I will also clean the MAF sensor, as I picked up MAF cleaner yesterday. I heard that causes a bunch of issues.

Thoughts?

 

[camaroguy72]

I'm willing to bet at the end of the day it will be the PIP (Hall Effect Sensor). In any event the op needs to remove and clean the battery to engine and engine to chassis ground terminals. Same for the battery to fuse block terminals. Then he needs to pull the DTCs to see what events the ECU has logged.

I've heard of the grounds causing issues. I will be cleaning those up this weekend. I did clean the battery terminals and all the easy to access grounds on the top side.

 

[addermk2]

FWIW, rebuilding the distributor is cheap and easy. Putting a new PIP into it, is just good maintenance.


Also, you need to check your fuel pressure. Before cranking, during, and after. See if that pump is ok.

 

[camaroguy72]

the car i sjust having driveability issues... I'll get a gauge and check fp but don't have one right now, so I was hoping to rule it out with logic. Today driving the car, with the throttle closed and at idle or clutch in it will rev up.. but drive normal when engaged... although if you drive the car around a while, it goes back to normal. I have an IAC and gasket on the way, need to pick up a proper torx to remove the MAF and clean that.. hopefully between those I'll see a little progress. will check all the vacuum lines again while I'm in there as well as the PCV.

Where can I get a gauge that will be good enough to get the job done? Not something I will be using regularly, so hate to spend a lot on it.

I have a line on a cheap used CCRM.. I am curious if I should purchase it and sit on it for a rainy day if I end up needing it

 

[90lxwhite]

FWIW, rebuilding the distributor is cheap and easy. Putting a new PIP into it, is just good maintenance.


Also, you need to check your fuel pressure. Before cranking, during, and after. See if that pump is ok.

Don't you have to have a press to press the gear on? I think it's easier labor wise to replace w a new distributor

 

[addermk2]

Took me 15 minutes to change my PIP.

 

[addermk2]

I might fix the pictures later.

How to disassemble your distributor! - MustangForums.com

 

[94GTCoupe]

A small press would be nice, but its not necessary.
I did my last one on my rolling cart by hand with a hammer and some sockets.

Just be sure its a Motorcraft pip.

 

[Chythar]

Don't you have to have a press to press the gear on? I think it's easier labor wise to replace w a new distributor

I'd rather know that I have good electrical parts, some of the new distributors use cheap parts that fail too quickly. Motorcraft PIPs last many years longer than any other aftermarket replacement that I know of.

I've disassembled three distributors with hand tools, using the same basic method that addermk2 posted. I bought a brass hammer (so I don't damage the distributor shaft) a vice and a set of punches for the roll pins. After removing the roll pin for the distributor gear, I place the gear on top of the vice and gently hit the distributor shaft to tap it free. The brass hammer guarantees that you won't damage the distributor shaft - the brass is softer then the metal of the distributor shaft. To re-install the gear, use a deep socket on top of the distributor gear and tap it with your hammer. Make sure you carefully line up the roll pin holes on the gear and the distributor shaft, or you'll have to pull the gear off again.

 

[90lxwhite]

I'd rather know that I have good electrical parts, some of the new distributors use cheap parts that fail too quickly. Motorcraft PIPs last many years longer than any other aftermarket replacement that I know of.

I've disassembled three distributors with hand tools, using the same basic method that addermk2 posted. I bought a brass hammer (so I don't damage the distributor shaft) a vice and a set of punches for the roll pins. After removing the roll pin for the distributor gear, I place the gear on top of the vice and gently hit the distributor shaft to tap it free. The brass hammer guarantees that you won't damage the distributor shaft - the brass is softer then the metal of the distributor shaft. To re-install the gear, use a deep socket on top of the distributor gear and tap it with your hammer. Make sure you carefully line up the roll pin holes on the gear and the distributor shaft, or you'll have to pull the gear off again.

When's the last time you used a motorcraft pip? Are they still good? Motorcraft parts are re-branded off shore parts just like everything else now only they cost more.

 

[camaroguy72]

well the cutting out did stop, the car just has high idling and surging at this point (intermittent). It has started every time... so maybe the alternator fixed it.

IAC will deliver today, so i'll be putting that in and cleaning the MAF.