Maybe this will become a sticky, maybe not. But it will be available for an easy search. Please do not ask what we think you should run for a setup. That is what PM's are for. I will not add everything tonight, but please add what you know, personally to be true and correct from experience, not what a buddy told you his cousin's friend did. I would like this to be a thread were you can come and find info on getting your classic to hook.
There are a few things that are basic for drag racing. Tires: Don't go to the track without them. Don't be the guy at the track everyone is laughing at because you are complaining of a horrible track when you drop the clutch at 6k with 245 50 16 radials, and stock suspension. Suspension: Transfering weight is a key point. Planting the tires is great, especially when you have a ton of weight on them. Do not lower your car. A car will transfer weight much better if the CG (center of gravity) is higher, and if the car is level if not higher in the front. Do not slam the front and wonder why it doesn't transfer weight. Autocross cars are lowered to keep the CG down, for less body roll. We want body roll, in the form of front to back. To transfer the wieght you also want to loosen up the front. 90/10's, no sway bar, and since most of us run SB's, and no one makes a drag spring for us, 6 cylinder coils. And the all important roller perch. This one mod made it possible to hook at a horrible track, with 28 psi in the ET streets. It basically takes the shock out of its bind that is caused when the front end tries lift. The rear: You do not want the rear end to squat. As it is squatting, there is no wieght on the rear tires. Not until the rear is maxed out, and it stops squating, do the rear tires see any real wieght. This you see at the track pretty often in the form of a slight chirp or squeal, then a great hook. You basically want the car to pivot on the tires as the wieght comes back.Axle wrap: Alot of talk about this lately. When power is applied to the rear end, the pinion will try to climb the ring gear, causing the whole rear end to try to point to 12 o'clock. The leaf springs will "wrap up" and bow up in the middle, and down in the back. It will do this until the spring can't go any farther. then it will snap down, bow up in the back, and down in the front. Causing wheel hop, and often breaking parts when it stops and gets traction. A lift bar will help, but Caltracs are your best friend. They use rear end twisting to force the leaf down in the front, and lift the front end of the car. I will be back later
There are a few things that are basic for drag racing. Tires: Don't go to the track without them. Don't be the guy at the track everyone is laughing at because you are complaining of a horrible track when you drop the clutch at 6k with 245 50 16 radials, and stock suspension. Suspension: Transfering weight is a key point. Planting the tires is great, especially when you have a ton of weight on them. Do not lower your car. A car will transfer weight much better if the CG (center of gravity) is higher, and if the car is level if not higher in the front. Do not slam the front and wonder why it doesn't transfer weight. Autocross cars are lowered to keep the CG down, for less body roll. We want body roll, in the form of front to back. To transfer the wieght you also want to loosen up the front. 90/10's, no sway bar, and since most of us run SB's, and no one makes a drag spring for us, 6 cylinder coils. And the all important roller perch. This one mod made it possible to hook at a horrible track, with 28 psi in the ET streets. It basically takes the shock out of its bind that is caused when the front end tries lift. The rear: You do not want the rear end to squat. As it is squatting, there is no wieght on the rear tires. Not until the rear is maxed out, and it stops squating, do the rear tires see any real wieght. This you see at the track pretty often in the form of a slight chirp or squeal, then a great hook. You basically want the car to pivot on the tires as the wieght comes back.Axle wrap: Alot of talk about this lately. When power is applied to the rear end, the pinion will try to climb the ring gear, causing the whole rear end to try to point to 12 o'clock. The leaf springs will "wrap up" and bow up in the middle, and down in the back. It will do this until the spring can't go any farther. then it will snap down, bow up in the back, and down in the front. Causing wheel hop, and often breaking parts when it stops and gets traction. A lift bar will help, but Caltracs are your best friend. They use rear end twisting to force the leaf down in the front, and lift the front end of the car. I will be back later
