Idle Comes Down With Clutch Pedal Depressed???

@Dave2000GT I hope I misunderstand what you did. Bypassing the neutral safety starter interrupt switch will cause a nasty surprise sometime when your wife or kid starts it in gear. I hope you have styrofoam filled boxes in front of where you park.:bang:
No you are wrong the neutral safety switch does not allow this, the clutch pedal (ie clutch switch) still needs to be depressed to start. The neutral safety switch goes back to the computer and let's the car know if you are driving so it bumps up the RPM a touch, as does the vehicle speed sensor (both do the same thing). So if you put the car in gear, or start moving either has the same effect. So if it's faulty when you let out the clutch the ECU thinks your now driving so it bumps up the RPM. Shorting just tells the computer you are always in neutral.. until you start moving then it picks up the VSS and no difference driving.
 
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I'm sure he meant the clutch safety switch. Either way...I'm going crazy with this problem. I just ordered the intake gaskets and will be replacing them next week.
So coming back full circle here... when you said you bypassed it, were you also talking about the clutch safety switch ? If so, then you should try bypassing the neutral gear switch. It's really simple to do, and could well be the cause of your RPM change with the clutch pedal.
 
I bypassed both of them. I replaced the clutch switch and then replugged it. I have no idea what else it can be. I just removed the lower intake and the gaskets looked perfect. Here are pics.

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Ok, I replaced the gaskets, reinstalled everything and the problem still occurs. I disconnected the clutch switch again temporarily. I installed a fuse in the plug and bypassed it. I installed and removed the fuse several times the idle drops every time I install the fuse. So a bad switch is out of the question. The car idles great but I can feel the difference without the switch connected. The idle hangs a bit and tends to buck a bit at low speeds in gear.

I am stumped here. I don't know what else to look for.
 
Have you gotten a code 67 lately when you dump the codes? It seems that the neutral safety switch has been known to cause idle problems if it isn't functioning properly.
 
Have you gotten a code 67 lately when you dump the codes? It seems that the neutral safety switch has been known to cause idle problems if it isn't functioning properly.
Yah man I agree here, it still sounds like the neutral gear switch. So please just clarify one last time, you went under the car, disconnected the wires going to the neutral gear switch at the front/driver side of the tranny, and shorted them together, and this had no effect ?
 
Have you gotten a code 67 lately when you dump the codes? It seems that the neutral safety switch has been known to cause idle problems if it isn't functioning properly.

I have not checked them lately. I have the day off tomorrow so I'm gonna do that in the morning. I've read of some people having the same issue but no one has updated the thread to say whether they found the issue or not.
 
Yah man I agree here, it still sounds like the neutral gear switch. So please just clarify one last time, you went under the car, disconnected the wires going to the neutral gear switch at the front/driver side of the tranny, and shorted them together, and this had no effect ?

No, I bypassed the clutch switch which is at the clutch pedal.


I haven't researched it yet but should I bypass the neutral safety switch on the tranny and if so how do I do it?
 
No, I bypassed the clutch switch which is at the clutch pedal.


I haven't researched it yet but should I bypass the neutral safety switch on the tranny and if so how do I do it?
Yes.. like I said right from the very start !! It IS your neutral gear switch (sometimes called 'neutral safety switch' - same thing), that describes the symptoms you are having to a T. It plugs into the front drivers side of the tranny, near the top. You can't replace it without pulling the tranny, but you can undo the connecter, and 'short' together the wires that go back to the computer and it should solve your issue.

28776d1310532303-t5-trans-switches.jpg
 
Yes.. like I said right from the very start !! It IS your neutral gear switch (sometimes called 'neutral safety switch' - same thing), that describes the symptoms you are having to a T. It plugs into the front drivers side of the tranny, near the top. You can't replace it without pulling the tranny, but you can undo the connecter, and 'short' together the wires that go back to the computer and it should solve your issue.

28776d1310532303-t5-trans-switches.jpg


Man, I hope that is it. Gonna go out in a bit and do it. I will update. Thank you!
 
Ok, I checked the codes and did not have a code 67. I reconnected the clutch switch and went under the car to disconnect the NSS. I jumped it with an alligator clip and started the car. So far it seems to be fine. No more idle drop when I push the clutch in. I only drove it for 2 blocks but I hope to get it out later on and drive it some more.

Thanks guys and I will update.
 
Ok, I checked the codes and did not have a code 67. I reconnected the clutch switch and went under the car to disconnect the NSS. I jumped it with an alligator clip and started the car. So far it seems to be fine. No more idle drop when I push the clutch in. I only drove it for 2 blocks but I hope to get it out later on and drive it some more.

Thanks guys and I will update.
No problem, next time I'll be more vocal right from the start, I was 99% sure it was the problem but I should have followed up better with you. I chased it around for awhile on my car too.
 
No problem, next time I'll be more vocal right from the start, I was 99% sure it was the problem but I should have followed up better with you. I chased it around for awhile on my car too.

Thank you Dave. I really hope that was it. I've been going crazy trying to figure it out. I don't like hacking things up. I have another NSS from my original tranny and I'm gonna replace it in the near future if indeed it fixed the issue.
 
I took the car out for a short spin and it seems to have been taken care of by bypassing the NSS. Unfortunately, I now have a small oil intake leak behind the lower intake. I didn't have it before the gasket change but oh well. Guess I'll have to spend another $80-$100 on gaskets, rtv, coolant and oil.
 
I drove it some more today and it didn't do it anymore. I think it's safe to say that it was the NSS even though I didn't get a DTC 67. So thank you guys for the advice and suggestions!!!