I've Decided To Build A 351/400
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Now as for needing more suspension work done to help keep the damn thing from blowing the tires too bad 
I have subframe connectors, Rear upper and lower LCA's, tokiko hp blues struts and shocks, eibach pro's, Hotchkis caster cambers, strut tower brace ( hopefully it fits with new engine/intake), new bushings and ball joints, poly end links up front less than 2 yrs ago.
Anything else I surely need to do to the suspension? I am going to upgrade the brakes as soon as I need brake work if not sooner.
I have subframe connectors, Rear upper and lower LCA's, tokiko hp blues struts and shocks, eibach pro's, Hotchkis caster cambers, strut tower brace ( hopefully it fits with new engine/intake), new bushings and ball joints, poly end links up front less than 2 yrs ago.
Anything else I surely need to do to the suspension? I am going to upgrade the brakes as soon as I need brake work if not sooner.
No idea. The dude built it "Road Warrior" style then sold it a few months later. Since the thread was bouncing from stock rebuild to the Arcane Stone of Erebor, I thought I'd toss in another possibility.
You should try being a bit more specific about what parts you installed. Just saying that you've replaced them, doesn't give us much to go on.Now as for needing more suspension work done to help keep the damn thing from blowing the tires too bad
I have subframe connectors, Rear upper and lower LCA's, tokiko hp blues struts and shocks, eibach pro's, Hotchkis caster cambers, strut tower brace ( hopefully it fits with new engine/intake), new bushings and ball joints, poly end links up front less than 2 yrs ago.
Anything else I surely need to do to the suspension? I am going to upgrade the brakes as soon as I need brake work if not sooner.
lmfaoNo idea. The dude built it "Road Warrior" style then sold it a few months later. Since the thread was bouncing from stock rebuild to the Arcane Stone of Erebor, I thought I'd toss in another possibility.
lol let me name the few items that I didn't associate with a brand
Here's the OP:
I have subframe connectors, Rear upper and lower LCA's, tokiko hp blues struts and shocks, eibach pro's, Hotchkis caster cambers, strut tower brace ( hopefully it fits with new engine/intake), new bushings and ball joints, poly end links up front less than 2 yrs ago.
1. Can't even recall if they were a certain brand of subframes. They are welded in.
2. Rear control arms are Lakewoods I'm pretty sure
3. Moog ball joints and bushings
4. Energy suspension poly sway bar end linkd and bushings
i have to double check on the LCA's, could be another brand. I looked for something that had great reviews from street guys and some who track their cars as well as with poly bushings that came in them.
Had car lowered in 02 as a v6 but changed to the v8 eibachs shortly after doing the engine swap.
You'll never find the savings in a 10 item list. It's when you get to the 100 item list you really start to see the difference. It's when you get to he things like, I have two AC hoses that have to be extended 4" each, and that will be $89 plus two trips to the hose shop.
Kurt
I hear ya man. Haven't talked to my builder yet. Probably will tonight and all things will be considered. I read a nice article or thread/posts on " how much HP is too much for the street " and it along with you guys as well as my builder has me really not rushing and going to just go with ultimately what I feel will make me and my wallet the happiest. I also don't want to regret doing or not doing anything. I also want to make sure I can get the power transferred to the tires and keep them from spinning as much as possible on street tires. Next time I need tires if I have to spend more to get the best stick I will . I realize nothings cheap in doing this and want to be satisfied and ultimately for a weekend driver won't be mad for splurging on the weekends
And Oh I know that 10 items wasn't it. Definitely the biggest items on the list though.
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Just talked to my builder and going pretty much going to do a 351 with a 3.750 crank or might just do a Dart and have more cubes. Now as mentioned earlier on my suspension parts:
I have subframe connectors,J & M Rear upper and lower LCA's, tokiko hp blues struts and shocks, eibach pro's, Hotchkis caster cambers, strut tower brace ( hopefully it fits with new engine/intake), new bushings and ball joints, poly end links up front less than 2 yrs ago.
1. Can't even recall if they were a certain brand of subframes. They are welded in.
2. Rear control arms are J & M
3. Moog ball joints and bushings
4. Energy suspension poly sway bar end linkd and bushing
5. Nitto NT55's I believe are what I'm running
Car hasn't run since end Aug and hasn't been home since around Oct due to accident which is why I'm almost forgetting what I put on it lol. Don't have my book with me.
Now what else can/should I do suspension wise? I will upgrade the brakes soon also
I have subframe connectors,J & M Rear upper and lower LCA's, tokiko hp blues struts and shocks, eibach pro's, Hotchkis caster cambers, strut tower brace ( hopefully it fits with new engine/intake), new bushings and ball joints, poly end links up front less than 2 yrs ago.
1. Can't even recall if they were a certain brand of subframes. They are welded in.
2. Rear control arms are J & M
3. Moog ball joints and bushings
4. Energy suspension poly sway bar end linkd and bushing
5. Nitto NT55's I believe are what I'm running
Car hasn't run since end Aug and hasn't been home since around Oct due to accident which is why I'm almost forgetting what I put on it lol. Don't have my book with me.
Now what else can/should I do suspension wise? I will upgrade the brakes soon also
My advice, before I'd even consider spending 10+ grand on a Dart based engine for a plain ole swapped engine street car, buy a car already built.
I've been searching. And thing is buying something and relying on it to be what someone says it is. These days if you aren't in the loop of a group or really know the folks you may be dealing with, it's a chance you would have to take. I have been searching for other stangs to buy and didn't search for built cars but stumbled across some and checked them out. Is there a certain place other than the for sale areas of forums?
Another factor is distance and being able to go drive, test them out, ect. People take as much pride in
ting someone these days as they tell the truth lol. Almost better to build your own stuff thru someone you trust so you know exactly what you have.
All comes down to what your after and what you can afford. I'm gonna speculate and say that if you actually have the funds you are talking about spending that the money is not the main issu, but buying the right car or parts etc is more important. In that case, do exactly that and dont dump 10k or more into a 2k car.
But if I don't find the car with the motor I want to do or the motor I want rather the motor is going to have to be built regardless and it's not an issue right now I know I had a thread about modular vs pushrod and I'll probably end up with with two Mustangs and if I need to get a modular later on I probably will just wait and get one but I definitely want to have a pushrod motor as well . I understand what you're saying about you know making horsepower with the newer cars etc 03 04 / Terminator and stuff but truth of the matter is I probably will have to Mustangs and either way I will end up doing a push rod motor at some point so its no rush to go ahead and do the modular now. Sorry for the run on sentences but speaking to text at the doctor office right now lol.
I have put a good bit of money into the suspension and a lot of wiring stereo systems etc I mean the car has a lot of work done to it in a lot of money tied up into it which was which is why I'd rather just build a motor for it now buying another car that has a built motor in it but I like you can trust what it has in believe I'll consider it.
Reddevil91
15 Year Member
- Mar 3, 2010
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Ok so I’m gonna post this in here and see if I can get it answered instead making a whole new thread. So what is the difference between the dart shp 8.2 4.00 vs 4.125? I have a guy an hour away from me offering me a dart 8.2 4.125 for 1650 brand new. I originally wanted his 4.00 but missed out on the sale. So I know for sure I don’t really want to get rid of my 11r 190s. I have been thinking about doing a 331 more likely 347. Can this be done with the 4.125 or is that already bored to big even though I read that they are actually under bored at like 4.11 or whatever and can be bored up to 4.125? Idk my point is can I do a 347 with this block or is this set up for more of a 363? The guy I got my heads from ordered a 363 made motor but it had the wrong pistons which caused him clearance issues with the 190s so he sold them to me and bought afr’s. I also read on lmr that the dart 363 they have that it will not work with TFS heads. I’m no expert in this area so I’m just looking for help before I get crazy and buy something I don’t need to. Just seems like a good deal, and if I can do a 347 with it then maybe I might grab it to start working on a new heart for my car. Gracias amigos!!
Tfs heads require a tfs piston... period, you can build whatever with the 4.125 block the only difference is the bore is much larger.
Reddevil91
15 Year Member
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So if I bought the TFS pistons that say lmr sells and then just bought the proper crank etc for. 347 id be solid or even a 363? I really just like the idea of a 347 so if I could with the 4.125 then at 1650 for a brand new in box dart shp I would think that’s a good deal.
You're gonna be 363 cub
You'd have to buy a full stroker kit with a 4.125 over piston with valve reliefs cut for a twisted wedge head. The 500.00 set of TFS pistons that LMR sells are for a stock rod length, .030 overbore.
Uhh no.
You'd have to buy a full stroker kit with a 4.125 over piston with valve reliefs cut for a twisted wedge head. The 500.00 set of TFS pistons that LMR sells are for a stock rod length, .030 overbore.
