Liqui Moly

Kevin Dunson

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Apr 24, 2016
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Hello friends jus curious if anyone has any experience with liquimoly oil made in germany i just bought my first mustang and went to add oil and the guy said he uses moly oil in some kind of racing oil..
 

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It's Molybdenum disulfide which is what's also used in Royal Purple oil.


Whether or not it's right for your car depends on what you do with it? Commute to/from work? Weekend cruiser? Strip car? etc.

I just put Castrol GTX in my Mustang. Let's not overthink things.
 
i would add a quart of the following

  • duralube
  • Zmax
  • Lucas Engine oil stabilizer
  • Rislone
  • MMO

Then you wont have to add ANY all whatsoever. :rlaugh:

Unless you have a dedicated race motor or know the exact specs on the setup that makes it require a certain oil, run any brand dino oil with a good Wix or FL1A filter and you will be fine. The viscosity and weight will depend on your climate a good 10-30 or 10-40 is a good catch all. I don't like 20-50 as it puts too much strain on the oil pump and 5-30 seems a little too thin in hot climates on older cars. I would not recommend synthetic oil if your car is high miles or has run dino oil for most of its life- as that will lead to all kinds of leaks at the seals.
 
It's Molybdenum disulfide which is what's also used in Royal Purple oil.


Whether or not it's right for your car depends on what you do with it? Commute to/from work? Weekend cruiser? Strip car? etc.

I just put Castrol GTX in my Mustang. Let's not overthink things.
I heard royal purple stopped using moly in their oil. Not sure if true.
 
As a certified lubricants specialist who works for an international performance lubricants company, I can give you some recommendations.

Others have asked some good questions, it really does come down to need. Liqui Moly is a fine oil but there are other premium Euro oils out there of better quality if that something you're considering. Problem with LM is that they repackage some of their oils here in the US as "full synthetic" while not being considered a full syn in Europe (there is no definition in the US what a full syn is or a semi-syn for that matter). Look for something from Motul as they have great product integrity and continuity globally and make a wide range of different "semi-syns" which are formulated like the full syns that are made here, to their 8100 full syn line (group 4 PAO's), the Sport line (group 4's with 5's) and the 300V EsterCore line of oils. Just depends how much you want to spend!

A variety of different oil manufacturers use moly in their oils and is not some unicorn additive. Even some of the cheapest oils out there will have a nice shot of moly in them. The importance of an oil is that it's balanced in its formulation and the additives will ultimately only be as good as the base oil they're apart of. Find an oil with good NOACK volatility numbers and for our older cars, an oil with a high HTHS viscosity. Most standard 5w30 full syns now are "energy conserving" oils with low HTHS vis to improve fuel economy at the sacrifice of engine protection and will have lower levels of ZDDP compared to oils made back in the day. Don't get me wrong, oil technology has come a long way and having higher levels of ZDDP don't make an oil good or bad. That being said you can get the best of all worlds by getting one of the Euro grades carrying "full SAPS" designation with the Porsche A40, BMW LL-01, Mercedes 229.5 approvals will have very robust additive packages, have high HTHS vis and would be great for your 5.0. Running a 5w40/0w40 will be ideal as it will have adequate cold flow properties while retaining a 40 grade at operating temp. All the majors have an oil with these approvals but getting an authentic Euro product will be of better quality than what is typically offered here.

Your car won't leak because of running a full syn... It's an old wives tale at this point. Esters used to have compatability issues with old cork gaskets but those days are over. You'll be fine.
 
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