My 1994 GT Mustang Aode to T5 Conversion w/PICS!

  • Sponsors (?)


The driveshaft from the AODE and T5 are the same length so that doesn't matter. A spacer is recommended but not required. I had plenty of engagement and never had any problems.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I am currently in the middle of this swap and just noticed I was sold a 4cyl trans like the one used in this tutorial instead of a V8 transmission. Due to this, the pilot bearing is too large and fits very loosely on the transmission shaft. I've gone to all the parts stores in my area and they have a 4cyl pilot bearing, but the outer diameter does not fit the inside the crankshaft, it is way too small. It is about the size of the middle race of the V8 pilot bearing [about the size of a dime], compared to the V8 pilot bearing, which is about the size of a half dollar and looks more like a skateboard/rollerskate bearing.

Where can I find a bearing like the one used in this tutorial that will allow me to use a 4cyl transmission on my 302 V8 engine?
 
I am currently in the middle of this swap and just noticed I was sold a 4cyl trans like the one used in this tutorial instead of a V8 transmission. Due to this, the pilot bearing is too large and fits very loosely on the transmission shaft. I've gone to all the parts stores in my area and they have a 4cyl pilot bearing, but the outer diameter does not fit the inside the crankshaft, it is way too small. It is about the size of the middle race of the V8 pilot bearing [about the size of a dime], compared to the V8 pilot bearing, which is about the size of a half dollar and looks more like a skateboard/rollerskate bearing.

Where can I find a bearing like the one used in this tutorial that will allow me to use a 4cyl transmission on my 302 V8 engine?

After some research, the bearing that fits is made by Motormite, part number 14672. Autozone has them.
 
I just finished the swap and started up the car. I started up the car and there is a knock :(

When I push the clutch in, the knock fades away or isn't there. I took the car for a test drive and it runs fine throughout every gear, even reverse.

It knocks in every gear as well as neutral, but only when the clutch is not pushed in.

I've read that this can be caused by a bent engine block plate [the one that was had to be modified/drilled in this tutorial].

All the parts I used [except for the transmission, bellhousing, and the pedals] are brand new [not used].

Any other ideas of what could be causing this?!?! It's driving me crazy!
 
No they don't. The reason is because the fluid in a T5 is just sitting there getting worked into the gears while they spin. Automatic trans fluid is getting forced through valves which heats it up. And we all know that automatic transmissions do NOT like heat! I suppose if it mattered that much to somene, they could adapt some fittings to the filler and drain plugs on the T5 and use a pump to pump the fluid through the trans cooler but it's kinda over kill really.
 
I am going to be doing this mod to a 94 GT soon.

The car has a Bama 3 stage chip, and of course it is tied to the AODE ECM...
The chip has lifetime reburns for situations like this, so does anyone see why Bama could not just remove the unwanted timing functions from the ECM when the chip is reburnt, so long as we let them know we have gone from AODE to T5?

Also, I notice that many aftermarket shift handles have different shapes and angles to them.
Can anyone recommend a brand shift handle that has the most rearward length to possibly make up for the T5 vs T45 shifter placement?
I have seen a Steeda (IIRC) aluminum shift handle that sweeps back towards the driver dramatically, but it was 95 bux just for the handle! No knob, no shifter, no boot, no vasoline, just the handle.
 
I have a similar situation and I contacted American Muscle/ Bama and they said they can tell the chip to ignore the automatic features. I haven't got it done yet, but I'm hoping it will be that easy. Have you had it done yet ratio411?
 
Did you ever figure out your knocking issue zZ?

I don't know if I figured it out, but I did resolve it. I just pre-loaded the throw out bearing against the pressure plate and it stopped. I am worried that I am wearing on my clutch, but I do plan on doing an engine swap in the next year, so I guess I'll find out. Next time I'm under the car, I plan on loosening it up a bit to see if it went away.
 
This is really old, but I was just reading through this write up, because I am thinking of doing the swap. And wanted to know about the speedometer gear did you stay with the automatic one or switch to a manual spedo gear? Thanks