Thanks for that info, I didn't know belts were measured by O.D. The water pump is standard (clockwise) rotation from a 80-85 Crown Vic. The bolt holes are a smaller diameter so I need to new drill holes in my pulley.
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Thanks for that info, I didn't know belts were measured by O.D. The water pump is standard (clockwise) rotation from a 80-85 Crown Vic. The bolt holes are a smaller diameter so I need to new drill holes in my pulley.
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@jrichker , I need your assistance please. Can you please post back to back to back your helpful diagrams for:
1)starter/solenoid wiring normal with battery in trunk
2) starter/solenoid with battery in trunk & external cut off switch
3)intake manifold vacuum diagram
I greatly appreciate your help. This will help me find all my needs all in one place as I work.
1)starter/solenoid wiring normal with battery in trunk
2) starter/solenoid with battery in trunk & external cut off switch
3)intake manifold vacuum diagram
I greatly appreciate your help. This will help me find all my needs all in one place as I work.
Last edited:
As requested, plus a few more you may need...
For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang
Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
O2 sensor wiring harness
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangO2Harness.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif
TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif
93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif
T5 Cutaway showing T5 internal parts
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/5_Speed_Cutaway_Illustrated.jpg
Visual comparison of the Ford Fuel Injectors, picture by TMoss:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg
For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang
Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
O2 sensor wiring harness
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangO2Harness.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif
TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif
93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif
T5 Cutaway showing T5 internal parts
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/5_Speed_Cutaway_Illustrated.jpg
Visual comparison of the Ford Fuel Injectors, picture by TMoss:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg
Last edited by a moderator:
@jrichker Thanks!! I'm glad your diagram also has the 3g alt w/ high torque mini starter because that's what I'm running. Now I can get all my connections going. I'm debating on removing the battery cutoff switch since I'll rarely go to the track if ever at all. I can also see my my co-workers (those who know) will play pranks on me and turn the cutoff switch.
Got this done yesterday.
As you can see in the first picture the P.O. ran the power wire from the trunk mounted battery to the starter solenoid in a bad spot. It's on my list of things to do to run it inside the car.
As you can see in the first picture the P.O. ran the power wire from the trunk mounted battery to the starter solenoid in a bad spot. It's on my list of things to do to run it inside the car.
Removed old tilt steering column and installed a new tilt column in perfect condition. While I was under there I removed this electrical mess. Fox 5.0's are plagued by stupid owners 
The old column had a damaged key cylinder because a P.O. lost the keys so they went ghetto style for starting the car. They eventually installed a push button start and spliced into the battery to starter solenoid wires with an off/on switch.
The old column had a damaged key cylinder because a P.O. lost the keys so they went ghetto style for starting the car. They eventually installed a push button start and spliced into the battery to starter solenoid wires with an off/on switch.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Removed old tilt steering column and installed a new tilt column in perfect condition. While I was under there I removed this electrical mess. Fox 5.0's are plagued by stupid owners
The old column had a damaged key cylinder because a P.O. lost the keys so they went ghetto style for starting the car. They eventually installed a push button start and spliced into the battery to starter solenoid wires with an off/on switch.
On/off switch? Really?
On/off switch? Really?
Redneck antitheft
?Thanks! It feels good to get forward progress. Thankfully to some baby sitting today and my wife getting a couple extra days off
Not next weekend but the weekend after i managaed to get a 4 day weekend together i am hoping to pull motor out and get my stuff to the builderRedneck antitheft
Thanks! It feels good to get forward progress. Thankfully to some baby sitting today and my wife getting a couple extra days off
Nothing exciting but some progress is better than no progress. I got my steering assembly completely hooked up now, brake booster and MC installed along with my FMS radiator and dual 10" fans which are dusty and need to be cleaned up. I have some painting to do for my hood hinges and wiper motor but right now it's about 8* outside so that kind of stuff is going to have to wait.
Coming up soon I will get my new 155lph fuel pump and gas tank kit. I got my WP pulley installed finally so I can run a string for belt length now. I'm on schedule to be on the road come March so long as it's a dry and sunny winter day I'll be putting my order in for my PiMP in a couple weeks.
Car is really dirty and fenders are only hanging on, not bolted because I'm still routing my wires and vacuum lines.
Coming up soon I will get my new 155lph fuel pump and gas tank kit. I got my WP pulley installed finally so I can run a string for belt length now. I'm on schedule to be on the road come March so long as it's a dry and sunny winter day
I'll be putting my order in for my PiMP in a couple weeks.
Car is really dirty and fenders are only hanging on, not bolted because I'm still routing my wires and vacuum lines.
I left mine in place, but I also made a little polished cover box for that corner to conceal random crap that didn't get moved. I ended up liking the look since it added some more shiny stuff, and that thing stands out a little more than if it weren't there and it looked like others. Since I pretty much just show my car, things like that are helpful.
I wouldn't worry about lengthening those types of lines though; I lengthened a bunch of mine on the main harness when I did it. I'm sure I could have gotten away w/o doing so, but that's the way it went
@Ozz
How did you run your alternator wiring that is part of the headlight harness? Did you cut that harness open to remove the alternator wiring and re-route it another way?
So this is a standard rotation water pump?
Huh. I have a similar setup in my 89 and like that alt bracket that you have there.
Huh. I have a similar setup in my 89 and like that alt bracket that you have there.
PM sent with Alt bracket info.
@jrichker
Regarding your diagram for trunk mounted battery grounds, can I run a ground from the neg battery terminal to (edit) trunk floor (bolted to body) then to the back of my aluminum heads instead of the engine block? And then from the head to the body? Or is the engine block a better ground and mandatory?
Regarding your diagram for trunk mounted battery grounds, can I run a ground from the neg battery terminal to (edit) trunk floor (bolted to body) then to the back of my aluminum heads instead of the engine block? And then from the head to the body? Or is the engine block a better ground and mandatory?
As requested, plus a few more you may need...
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
That will work OK IF you don't bolt a copper lug directly to an aluminum part. Separate the two parts with a stainless steel washer and you'll be good to go.. Copper directly in contact with aluminum = corrosion unless you use something to separate them, like a stainless steel washer.
See http://www.trianglefastener.com/pdf/18, 297-301.pdf which deals with aluminum and copper sheetmetal. Your situation is similar when the corrosion problem is considered.
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