Progress Thread My Kenne Bell Twin Screw'd Foxbody thread, (new addition to the family)

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Got some more parts that I'll get to install this weekend.
Clear econo 6pc head lights
PU sway bar end links
FRPP wires (tons of great reviews and only a hand full of good reviews for Taylor so I went with the popular choice)
new speed sensor
some hood to fender trim pieces
new hood release cable
all new coolant hoses


IMAG2767.jpg




Getting very close! In the next few weeks I'll get the rest of my parts ordered to get her in running condition to start tuning.
Just need:
AFM 3.5" NA power pipe $200
K&N 10" filter $50 (hopefully this will fit inside the fender)
fluids $30'ish
LC-1 wideband $160
PiMP ECU $730
new spark plugs $20'ish
1 awg & 4 awg ground cables $70
= $1,260 +/- to get her started.

Still looking good for March if the sky is clear and the roads ice/snow free.
 
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So I finished up my shopping for my Coupe this last weekend and the PiMP, AFM power pipe and wideband O2 should arrive late this week or early next week. For chits & giggles I just logged on to LMR and reviewed my account and added up all my receipts. Total to date is $2,863.14. This is only LMR. I ordered my wheels from American Muscle and have a few bucks spent with Summit as well. Not sure what my grand total is up to this point but It's safe to guess about $6k (includes purchase of car) and I'm feeling OK with it so far. :cheers:
 
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@jrichker

I was getting some 4 awg wire from my electrician friend at my work and talking about the engine and body grounds on my car and he said that a copper ground wire connected to an aluminum head could cause resistance at a certain temperature and cause the electrical to go haywire. Do you have any thoughts on this?
 
@jrichker

I was getting some 4 awg wire from my electrician friend at my work and talking about the engine and body grounds on my car and he said that a copper ground wire connected to an aluminum head could cause resistance at a certain temperature and cause the electrical to go haywire. Do you have any thoughts on this?

He is correct. You should use a stainless steel washer between the copper lug and the aluminum head.
 
Got my PiMP and LC-1 compliments of Collin (hoopty50). Also got my Anderson 3.5" NA power pipe, I'm a bit nervous to drill a 4" dia hole in my passenger side fender but I'll be as careful as possible.

Some (slow) progress pictures.
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Got my PiMP and LC-1 compliments of Collin (hoopty50). Also got my Anderson 3.5" NA power pipe, I'm a bit nervous to drill a 4" dia hole in my passenger side fender but I'll be as careful as possible.

Some (slow) progress pictures.
000_0003.jpg
000_0004.jpg
000_0005.jpg


Couple of observations

very nice build
The beer will help making the hole easier
please change that oil filter from the orange can o death
 
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That sucks about the hole you have to drill!!! Your gonna have to line that thing up PERFECTLY!!! I would take measurements of a stock engine bay then cut. You have to much prettyness to mess up!
 
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Couple of observations

very nice build
The beer will help making the hole easier
please change that oil filter from the orange can o death

When I was shooting the picture and could see the fram filter in plain sight I knew I'd get grief from you, lol. I got it only to use for priming the engine and a quick start and warm up then I'll change the oil and filter and replace with either motorcraft or wix.

Thanks for the compliment.
 
That sucks about the hole you have to drill!!! Your gonna have to line that thing up PERFECTLY!!! I would take measurements of a stock engine bay then cut. You have to much prettyness to mess up!

Behind the white engine panel is the stock apron. It's only half there but there is enough of the old hole I could use that as a guide and cut my hole from the outside in. I'll put a lot of masking tape on the inside part of the panel where the hole will be cut to help prevent any chipping or flaking of the paint.
@mikestang63 No beer or wheeskey will be consumed BEFORE cutting the hole :drink:
 
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When I was shooting the picture and could see the fram filter in plain sight I knew I'd get grief from you, lol. I got it only to use for priming the engine and a quick start and warm up then I'll change the oil and filter and replace with either motorcraft or wix.

Thanks for the compliment.

LOL.. Hey man- just looking out for you. It was not a dig as I figured it was for start up. That engine compartment looks sick, When you cut the hole in the fender, take some 1/8 vacuum hose and split it down the middle and it will make a nice seal around the perimiter of the hole.. I saw this trick on gearz a few years back on how to cut the hose down the middle. It works like a charm

 
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Glad everything came in one piece! was it still packed pretty well?

Yep packed well and contents in same condition as you left them I'm sure.

I'm having a heck of a time with cutting a perfect hole in my apron because these dang hole saw blades keep dulling. I guess they're cheap. I didn't buy them, they were in my dads tool box already. I'll get some good quality ones tomorrow and get my intake installed. Seems like progress is dragging with these small detail items when I only get 1 hour here and there however slowly but surely they'll get done.
 
If it were me, I'd figure out a way to use a cutoff wheel to cut out the hole smaller than what you need, then use a rotary tool with a carbide bit to remove the rest of the material how you want it. Finally, finish it with the vacuum hose method mentioned above. I've never had luck with a hole saw on metal.
 
Yep packed well and contents in same condition as you left them I'm sure.

I'm having a heck of a time with cutting a perfect hole in my apron because these dang hole saw blades keep dulling. I guess they're cheap. I didn't buy them, they were in my dads tool box already. I'll get some good quality ones tomorrow and get my intake installed. Seems like progress is dragging with these small detail items when I only get 1 hour here and there however slowly but surely they'll get done.

Home depot sells a 4" hole saw that attaches to a dril. Just drill a centered pilot hole and have at it. Then dress up the permiter with a dremel or file and put the cut vacuum tube around it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-4-in-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9645/202327761

If it is still fighting you, Harbor Freight sells a cheap body saw for like $20

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-metal-saw-91753.html
 
Home depot sells a 4" hole saw that attaches to a dril. Just drill a centered pilot hole and have at it. Then dress up the permiter with a dremel or file and put the cut vacuum tube around it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-4-in-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9645/202327761

If it is still fighting you, Harbor Freight sells a cheap body saw for like $20

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-metal-saw-91753.html

^^That's exactly what I was using but an unknown brand and the teeth quickly dulled. I'm going to get that Milwaukee brand hole saw that you linked and try that. If that fails I'm going to get my air compressor back from my moms house and use my pneumatic sheet metal nibbler.