Build Thread My First Notch Build Thread - Remember me?!

Made a little bit of progress lately. I finally found a strut nut to lock the down the driverside of the front suspension. I put the front brakes on. I need to find the lines that I bought a while back and put them on. I got my measurement for my driveshaft and emailed it to American powertrain. So my driveshaft should be coming soon.

Here are a few pics
20150715_233134_zpstczthqfb.jpg

This new strut nut is so pretty I might put the other new one on the other side just to match it. :shrug:

Ok,...you gotta know this was coming.:stick:

New brakes, new struts, new springs, installed on top of a skungy inner fender panel.

baa2010_1.jpg

Just sayin.

You read everything I write, yet you do not apply the wisdom you gain, grasshopper.
 
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Uhhh I don't know,..... now it makes it easier to see that you have a major ordeal infront of you w/ the wiring spaghetti hanging there. Good luck. I'm glad that part is behind me.
All that will be going into the black dash this week. If I remember correctly everything has a specific/matching place/plug that it should go right into.......I HOPE!! :confused: Its been so long since we took the dash out.
 
Ok,...you gotta know this was coming.:stick:

New brakes, new struts, new springs, installed on top of a skungy inner fender panel.

baa2010_1.jpg

Just sayin.

You read everything I write, yet you do not apply the wisdom you gain, grasshopper.
You know, my dad said the same thing the other day when I sent him progress pics. He also asked why didn't I fill in all the little holes in the engine compartment. To which I replied, "This will not be a show car." But you're right. I'd like to do lizard skin but I just don't have the time and my budget is GONE. My buddy whose garage this is has a baby on the way so his girlfriend will be moving in soon and the baby is due in October so I'm kinda in a rush to at least get the car on wheels with the ability to be steered so I can move it to my house. I also have to clear out the side of MY garage where the car will reside. So......as for the undercoating, I'll do that once the car gets running. Then I'll be able to give some attention to the little details like that and few other things that are not on the TOP PRIORITIES list right now.
 
Hey guys! Remember me? :stick:

Well, I have a lil update. I don't remember the last update but I've gotten a few things accomplished. Ok so the Dash is in...correctly. We just have to zip-tie a few wires up because the 25 year old tape that was holding it together kinda stopped working. Oh and we have to bolt the fuse panel to the dash frame where it goes. BUT the steering column is in and the dash is mounted. :banana:
20151216_000900_zpscsk1hy7d.jpg

We installed the headers but the locking header bolts are a headache. So the locks still need to be put on.
20151217_234606_zpsd8mynkcj.jpg
20151217_234555_zpsji0g5tp8.jpg
20151217_234545_zps2yevgwjp.jpg

Front accessories are mounted. Decided to delete the A/C for now due to my valve covers not allowing to the compressor to fit where it's supposed to be.
20151217_234533_zpsedhntvrm.jpg

Started installing the fuel system. That's not turning out the way it was supposed to. But nothing to lose my mind about....yet. Sorry, no pics yet. The tank is mounted, the line from the tank to the filter is on, and I started running the return line but it's longer than it was supposed to be. This is actually allowing me to mount the regulator wherever I want instead of on the rear of the passenger side strut tower. I think I might put it on the passenger side firewall right in front of the strut tower.

And look what Santa brought! :banana:
20151226_130719_zpsfqmnjsep.jpg
 
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Hey guys! Remember me? :stick:

Well, I have a lil update. I don't remember the last update but I've gotten a few things accomplished. Ok so the Dash is in...correctly. We just have to zip-tie a few wires up because the 25 year old tape that was holding it together kinda stopped working. Oh and we have to bolt the fuse panel to the dash frame where it goes. BUT the steering column is in and the dash is mounted. :banana:
20151216_000900_zpscsk1hy7d.jpg

We installed the headers but the locking header bolts are a headache. So the locks still need to be put on.
20151217_234606_zpsd8mynkcj.jpg
20151217_234555_zpsji0g5tp8.jpg
20151217_234545_zps2yevgwjp.jpg

Front accessories are mounted. Decided to delete the A/C for now due to my valve covers not allowing to the compressor to fit where it's supposed to be.
20151217_234533_zpsedhntvrm.jpg

Started installing the fuel system. That's not turning out the way it was supposed to. But nothing to lose my mind about....yet. Sorry, no pics yet. The tank is mounted, the line from the tank to the filter is on, and I started running the return line but it's longer than it was supposed to be. This is actually allowing me to mount the regulator wherever I want instead of on the rear of the passenger side strut tower. I think I might put it on the passenger side firewall right in front of the strut tower.

And look what Santa brought! :banana:
20151226_130719_zpsfqmnjsep.jpg
Front accessories look good.. I'll just tell ya right now,....Santa didn't check if there's a noise ordinance in your state. Cause if there is, you'll be in violation with those babies.
 
Front accessories look good.. I'll just tell ya right now,....Santa didn't check if there's a noise ordinance in your state. Cause if there is, you'll be in violation with those babies.
I live in New Orleans. They don't give 2 s hits about noise or smog tests....yet. Plus, I think my car qualifies as a "Classic" now so it would probably not be subjected to those tests anyway. :shrug:
 
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I don't know how much you plan on racing but if you don't have a scatter proof bellhousing i believe they can fail you in tech for the regulator on the fire wall.
 
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I don't know how much you plan on racing but if you don't have a scatter proof bellhousing i believe they can fail you in tech for the regulator on the fire wall.
I don't plan to enter in any sanctioned events. But where is a passable place to mount it? Oh and the blowproof bell housing will come later. Don't really have $400+ to spend on that at the moment.
 
@TOOLOW91 I just checked the NHRA rulebook and I will be well within the rules with the regulator mounted where I said. Look on the pic that shows the whole engine compartment. I was talking about where the tube of blue rtv is actually pointing at. The rule states that it just needs to be at least 6" forward of the bell housing. :nice:
 
@TOOLOW91 I just checked the NHRA rulebook and I will be well within the rules with the regulator mounted where I said. Look on the pic that shows the whole engine compartment. I was talking about where the tube of blue rtv is actually pointing at. The rule states that it just needs to be at least 6" forward of the bell housing. :nice:
Awesome just looking out for you


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
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Made a little progress...
20160217_000253_zpsaizmzppx.jpg

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I still have a lot of little things to do:
Mount and/or wire:
starter
alternator
fan

Install:
Vacuum lines
T-stat and waterneck
hoses(radiator, heater)
battery
put the chip in the computer and mount it
grounds
steering shaft and tighten all steering components

We are pushing to start it no later than next Thursday. Then I have to get the exhaust done and the rearend RE-done.
 
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I love tax season!! I just ordered more parts.
Here's what I ordered:
UPR Pro Series Adj UCAs and LCAs
UPR 14"-175# coilover springs to replace the 12"-250# springs I have on the car.
3" x-pipe from VRS Exhaust

I will be ordering tires also. I'm thinking about getting the MSD 6AL2(I have a 6AL). I like the 2-step feature on the 6AL2 tho.

The Summit universal starter I was gonna buy from my buddy was too much of a headache to install so I ordered a high torque mini starter that's for a mustang from LMR. I also had to order a mass air adapter plug since I'm using an 03 Cobra MAF.

@jrichker can you post a schematic of all the grounds under the hood of a fox body mustang so I can make sure I I don't miss any grounds? I bought new grounds straps but I know there are more that have to mounted to other parts of the block. I'll do a search on how to wire in the starter with my existing solenoid under the hood. Thanks!

Another thing....MSD Pro Billet Distributors come with a steal gear. Do I need to swap that out for a bronze or composite gear or is it ok to use. I never had a problem with the steal gear on my MSD distributor in my 94 GT with the F303 cam.
 
I don't have a diagram of all the grounds, but I will post a list of what to look for...

Grounds

Revised 28-Oct-2012 to add signal ground description & possible problems if it is bad

Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computer controlled engines. In an automobile, the ground is the return path for power to get back to the alternator and battery.

Make sure that all the ground places are clean and shiny bare metal: no paint, no corrosion.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.


2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. The clue to a bad ground here is that the temp gauge goes up as you add electrical load such as heater, lights and A/C.

Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

The picture shows the common ground point for the battery , computer, & extra 3G alternator ground wire as described above in paragraph 2. A screwdriver points to the bolt that is the common ground point.

The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground attached to it.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
ground.jpg


Correct negative battery ground cable.
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3.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally: it comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to its proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.
In 86-90 model cars, it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.
In 91-95 model cars it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/white wire.
You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness.

All the grounds listed in items 1,2 & 3 need to bolt to clean, shiny bare metal. A wire brush or some fine sandpaper is the best thing to use to clean the ground connections.


4.) All the sensors have a common separate signal ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGR, BAP, & VSS sensors. This ground is inside the computer and connects pin 46 to pins 40 & 60, which are the main computer grounds. If this internal computer ground gets damaged, you won't be able to dump codes and the car will have idle/stall/ performance problems

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on back of the cylinder head.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module ground terminates inside the computer.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.


See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. Be sure to have the maximum load on a circuit when testing voltage drops across connections. As current across a defective or weak connection, increases so does the voltage drop. A circuit or connection may check out good with no load or minimal load, but show up bad under maximum load conditions. .

Voltage drops should not exceed the following:
200 mV Wire or cable
300 mV Switch
100 mV Ground
0 mV to <50 mV Sensor Connections
0.0V bolt together connections

attachment.php?attachmentid=64167&stc=1&d=1286329941.gif


Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver. If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.

The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.
 
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