Build Thread My First Notch Build Thread - Remember me?!

#1. And why are we changing the oil after start up? Unless you have contaminated the oil in some way w/ gas, or water/antifreeze,....leave it in there at least for the initial break-in (If it's a new motor).

#2. Buy a test light. They're cheap, and will tell you instantly which circuit is hot.

#3. as for which fuse,...I'm not the one to ask. I don't have a stock, (and haven't had ) a stock fuse panel on a Mustang since '12.
A buddy of mine suggested I change the oil once it reaches operating temps just to get all the assembly lube flushed out and get some fresh oil back in it for the break-in. I never did that before but I figured what the hell, it definitely won't hurt to have fresher oil in it. :shrug:

The last time I was searching trying to figure out why I couldn't start the car we were trying to figure out why the fuel pump wouldn't get power from the "key on" position and we came up empty. The only thing we didn't check was the inertia switch. I'll check that next time and go down the checklist @jrichker just posted.
 
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Well it started....after several tries. Apparently my starter needs to shimmed or something because it seems to be binding on the flywheel for some reason. We kept having to "unjam it" just to be able to start it from the key. It'll start with the key then when it dies because it won't idle yet it will be jammed up again and we'd have to do it again either by manually turning the crank or bumping the starter at the solenoid. :nonono: Anyway, we finally gave up on that and just used a screwdriver on the solenoid on the starter to start it up. But between trying to find that sweet-spot with the distributor and holding the throttle we just never got it to idle. Then the belt started to fray because I must not have reinstalled the power steering pulley all the way on because it caused the belt to walk. I'm uploading one of the many videos of the car running.... not for long , but running. Sound quality isn't great because it was recorded with my phone(Galaxy S6 Edge+). I'll post it when its finished uploading to YouTube.
 
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Starter shouldn't have to be shimmed . I wonder what's up with that . The plate between the bell housing and the block acts as the shim .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
Well it started....after several tries. Apparently my starter needs to shimmed or something because it seems to be binding on the flywheel for some reason. We kept having to "unjam it" just to be able to start it from the key. It'll start with the key then when it dies because it won't idle yet it will be jammed up again and we'd have to do it again either by manually turning the crank or bumping the starter at the solenoid. :nonono: Anyway, we finally gave up on that and just used a screwdriver on the solenoid on the starter to start it up. But between trying to find that sweet-spot with the distributor and holding the throttle we just never got it to idle. Then the belt started to fray because I must not have reinstalled the power steering pulley all the way on because it caused the belt to walk. I'm uploading one of the many videos of the car running.... not for long , but running. Sound quality isn't great because it was recorded with my phone(Galaxy S6 Edge+). I'll post it when its finished uploading to YouTube.
It's been since the early eighties since I had to rebuild a starter. That description you give is the same ones I used to have back then, quick rebuild and and it was start getting just fine. What's that part called, the bendex I think. I don't really know of anyone that rebuilds them anymore, it wasn't a big deal.
 
It's been since the early eighties since I had to rebuild a starter. That description you give is the same ones I used to have back then, quick rebuild and and it was start getting just fine. What's that part called, the bendex I think. I don't really know of anyone that rebuilds them anymore, it wasn't a big deal.
Shouldn't have to rebuild a brand new starter.
 
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That's what I thought. I guess me getting the bellhousing powdercoated is biting me in the ass again. :fuss:
Could just pull it , clean the powder coat off the mating surface to the block and then put put it back together


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
Could just pull it , clean the powder coat off the mating surface to the block and then put put it back together


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
That's the plan. Just not looking forward to pulling the transmission...AGAIN. But it's gotta be done.

Btw car sounds great !


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Thanks! :D
 
So I got the car to idle today. :banana: It sounds AWESOME!! It wouldn't idle before because I hadn't set the TPS voltage. Well I set it to .985v and she idled pretty good. I think I might have the distributor off by 1 tooth tho. When I checked the timing it was way at the end of the timing lines on the balancer. I installed the power steering pulley all the way on this time so it shouldn't eat the belt anymore. I just have to get a new belt. Still having some issues with starting it from the key. I'm thinking the wire I used to tie in the little red wire that goes on that little stud on the solenoid isn't a big enough gauge wire. I think it's 12 or 14 gauge. The car starts right up when I just the solenoid that on the starter. :shrug:

Here's the video

View: https://youtu.be/2-J_c9kYEFI


@jrichker I have an electrical question for you. Let me bring you up to speed first. While buying the many parts for my car to do this build I bought a new fuel tank harness from LMR. After putting the fuel system in the car when we attempted to prime the fuel system by just hot-wiring the pump jumping the wires in the harness. Well the pump was running backwards. So we just figured this harness was made on a Friday after lunch when just switched the wires around in the harness instead of going through the return process. Weeeeeelllllll, since I've gotten the car to a point of being able to start and run I can't figure out why the fuel pump won't power on via the key. I've heard that relays are triggered by grounds so is it possible that switching those wires in the harness could be causing the relay to not get that ground/negative that would trigger it?
 
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ok... there is no such thing as being a tooth off. as long as you can move the distributor enough to get it to time you are fine. Make sure you removed the spout connector.

Sounds like you have a combonation of a timing and possible vacuum leak. Set the base idle following the sticky- try and get the idle as low as you can.. some cams need it to idle around 800 or more.