Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

Took the car out to the 1/8th mile tonight.

Best pass 8.3 et, 2.4 60ft., 83mph. Street tires 40psi. (Had no way to refill them after the race so I left them alone)

Had to leave in 2nd gear, with a soft launch. first would just spin no matter how soft I launched. Convertible, full weight with half tank of gas, 250lbs worth of stereo in the back seat.

Problem- even with a filter on the valve cover it would blow out the dipstick and I got oil on the header. Never did that on the street. Now I'm seeing 4# instead of 6 on the boost gauge. Wondering if I may have a leaking intake gasket?? Or is that normal?:shrug:
Belt slip I'd venture to say . Isn't boost fun lol .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Belt slip I'd venture to say . Isn't boost fun lol .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
I love it! After watching the videos some people in the pits took of the car. (People kept asking me if I had a 4.6 swap) I realized that I didn't have tire spin, it was pushing thru the clutch. You can watch the car launch then hear it hit the Rev limiter as the power band comes in.... oh well I will loosen it up for now.

What is a good replacement for street driving, that won't push thru when I get on it? I'm trying to get some life out of this t5 but it will fail eventually.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I love it! After watching the videos some people in the pits took of the car. (People kept asking me if I had a 4.6 swap) I realized that I didn't have tire spin, it was pushing thru the clutch. You can watch the car launch then hear it hit the Rev limiter as the power band comes in.... oh well I will loosen it up for now.

What is a good replacement for street driving, that won't push thru when I get on it? I'm trying to get some life out of this t5 but it will fail eventually.

Clutch replacement? You may not like the answer. a lot of guys run stage 3 puck style clutch. They work, but chatter like nuts. Very unpleasant. Ask @GroverDill .. I demolished a spec 2 and gave up and bought a Mcleod twin RST. Pricey, but so far, so good. 480 lbft and holding. I may have missed it, what do you have now?

Great thread, BTW!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Clutch replacement? You may not like the answer. a lot of guys run stage 3 puck style clutch. They work, but chatter like nuts. Very unpleasant. Ask @GroverDill .. I demolished a spec 2 and gave up and bought a Mcleod twin RST. Pricey, but so far, so good. 480 lbft and holding. I may have missed it, what do you have now?

Great thread, BTW!
Thanks! This is my first shot at boost, so far so good. I want to get more out of it but a smaller SC pulley would slip for sure, maybe I can find a different belt route that will give me more wrap.
The clutch is a stock replacement, it has some miles on it. I think with a stage 2 clutch, 20-25# of air in the tires and a decent launch I can get this thing into the 7s. What do you guys think?
Fwiw I lift shift, no power shifting or wot shifts. More aggressive shifts would get there for sure but I don't want to shell this t5.
 
Thanks! This is my first shot at boost, so far so good. I want to get more out of it but a smaller SC pulley would slip for sure, maybe I can find a different belt route that will give me more wrap.
The clutch is a stock replacement, it has some miles on it. I think with a stage 2 clutch, 20-25# of air in the tires and a decent launch I can get this thing into the 7s. What do you guys think?
Fwiw I lift shift, no power shifting or wot shifts. More aggressive shifts would get there for sure but I don't want to shell this t5.
I'm running a center force dual friction . 581 at the tire and it has yet to slip on me . 435 bucks I think on summit for it


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Got a spec 1 zoom clutch. On the CHEAP! 135$ good deal.

Will there be a huge issue if I run my 90mm lightning maf in blow thru? (Without adjusting the tune) how far off will the afr be?
The reason is I'm trying to remove restrictions before the blower.
 
Just wanted to say..awesome thread!!:nice: Just read all 15 pages. Great job(don't know how I missed this thread). Oh..I know very little about boosted setups and have nothing to add lol.
 
Just wanted to say..awesome thread!!:nice: Just read all 15 pages. Great job(don't know how I missed this thread). Oh..I know very little about boosted setups and have nothing to add lol.
Thanks! I have spent a lot of time getting this too work on a super tight budget. So far I'm stoked with the results, you can really feel the boost come in. Hopefully I can post some new videos of the car in action, I'm hoping for a 7s 1/8th mile pass.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Reconfigured the maf for blow thru. I think the tune I've been running was setup for a Cai not a filter on the end.
Now cruise afr is 14-15.5 range.
Idle 13.5-14.7 it's crisper, and does not hunt as much.

Wot in boost 2nd gear 12.5ish
Wot in boost 3rd, 4th 11.5 ish
Should I be concerned with the afr in boost?
 
Reconfigured the maf for blow thru. I think the tune I've been running was setup for a Cai not a filter on the end.
Now cruise afr is 14-15.5 range.
Idle 13.5-14.7 it's crisper, and does not hunt as much.

Wot in boost 2nd gear 12.5ish
Wot in boost 3rd, 4th 11.5 ish
Should I be concerned with the afr in boost?

I think that actually looks pretty safe. You want it to be a fuzz rich in boost.
 
Hi all I have been away for a while working on family stuff. Well I am now bringing an old build idea back from the dead, M90 5.0.... I have already mounted the charger and am working on the inlet and outlet adapters. This will be side mounted on the driver side, battery relocated and coil/solenoid as well. My plan calls for a large fmi. Right now my biggest issue is the maf sensor. The car is setup for a 90mm lmaf.. I'm not sure whether to draw thru blow thru or just megasquirt the car and do away with it.... keep in mind my budget for this build is 1k. The charger was 250. Fmi kit was 200. So I have 550 to play with.
Comments concerns ideas. Thanks.
just had a question i have a v-2 e-trim on my 99 cobra the v-2 are oil fed from the oil pan what type of oil should i use its been rebuilt the engine and is ready for first oil change
 
So I'm good then. Should I take a little fuel out of it??? What exactly am I looking for a afr wise?
Or can I leave it as is and add some timing? I'm at 10*base now.
Boost pre intercooler is 6#, after intercooler I'm seeing 3-4#.
 
So I'm good then. Should I take a little fuel out of it??? What exactly am I looking for a afr wise?
Or can I leave it as is and add some timing? I'm at 10*base now.
Boost pre intercooler is 6#, after intercooler I'm seeing 3-4#.

Mine is turbo.. but boost is boost I suppose. In boost I'm at 11.5- 10.5 afr.. max boost 10 psi. @Noobz347 is a screw junky.. maybe he has better input.
 
As long as everything was installed to spec. It's probably 5-20w or 5-30w. I run synthetic mobile 1

Your full synthetic will be fine if you're worried about vaporization.

Where do you live that you need 5w? The larger the split between cold and hot viscosity, the quicker they break down. That's a non-issue if oil changes are regular.
 
No but seriously air fuel ratio's?????? Need to know. Lol I don't want to go boom!
Seat of pants feel with bypass held open car pulls hard. When I let it operate normally and boost comes in the 3-4# I'm seeing makes a huge butt dyno difference.
 
From my limited knowledge anything leaner than 12:1 is unsafe(wot). At cruise/idle I think you can be a little lean. It will burn cleaner and you're not in any real danger of damaging anything. Slightly fat is the safe zone but you do slightly decrease performance. Have you pulled and inspected the plugs? Heard any pinging at all? I'd keep timing conservative for awhile(10*max).