Sometimes it's just a line has come undone/cracked etc. just a FYI and your plan is solid.
Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch
- Thread starter joetrainer31
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Just curious, what is your timing set at? You could always see how much vacuum it pulls also.
The shaking of the car at idle, I had an X-Cam on 1.7s that did the same thing. Simple fix I found it was starving for vacuum and I ran a cheap vacuum canister and it helped a lot.
You don't think it might have been a Z303 cam do you?
The shaking of the car at idle, I had an X-Cam on 1.7s that did the same thing. Simple fix I found it was starving for vacuum and I ran a cheap vacuum canister and it helped a lot.
You don't think it might have been a Z303 cam do you?
My timing is supposed to be set at 10 BTDC. I'll be double checking that when I get the car back.
I certainly hope its not a Z303 cam because of my rocker size. The builder did say "ZE," and gave the specs I listed.
If all passes I'll check vac levels. If needed I'll install a vac canister. Thanks for the idea! I wanted a stock cam to avoid all of this in the 1st place. We will see...
If you do need a vacuum canister; I picked a few of these up at a pick a part off some Chevys for a few bucks. No tools to take them off except maybe a razor blade or pocket knife.
Chevy And Gmc Truck Power Brake Booster Vacuum Filter, Ac Delco 1982-1986
That link is just for a picture of what it looks like. Worked wonders for me.
B.erazo712
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- Feb 6, 2015
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New panel up front, all new hardware for bumper, as well as all new "L" shaped brackets that make adjustments. Also, you might want to consider a new frt bumper reinforcement if the frt bumper cover is off. Don't be afraid to elongate the adjustment holes (a LITTLE) if needed.Yea, so how you do it?
The car is back at the body shop because they failed to fix some water leaks. Thus, the mechanical concerns and interior resto is being held up.
Let me know how your ride turns out!
Nice color.
A couple of observations.
1. The 5.0 badge on the fender is not in the right location, in the pic that you posted after paint.
2. 308ci. Is that a stock block thats punched. 040 over?
With running higher compression, the block sounds like its a weak link.
Also, must be nice to have a tech work on your stang.
A couple of observations.
1. The 5.0 badge on the fender is not in the right location, in the pic that you posted after paint.
2. 308ci. Is that a stock block thats punched. 040 over?
With running higher compression, the block sounds like its a weak link.
Also, must be nice to have a tech work on your stang.
iMachine,
1) Do you mean on the passenger side?
2) Yes, it is a stock block 040 over. My compression should be between 10-10.2:1. While higher, its not sky high. I do agree that 040 is not as good as 030 (or less). However, this is not a track car and will see primarily DD duty with some fun mixed in. I'm thinking that with my 42 year old foot it should be fine for what's expected of it.
Yes, it was great to have a tech working on my car while I was working on running a repair shop. Totally a bonus. Plus, the tech really got into it. Now he gets upset if anyone else messes with his work.
Lastly, thank you for the complement on the color. It was a gamble for me since that body style did not come in the color and it is a controversial color, but I took the risk and it seems to have worked out.
Thanks, bud. I figured it was. I built the car with margin in mind (i.e., nothing pushed to the ragged edge). Although, I do appreciate the other poster's concerns and comments.That compression level is fine.
And...
Considering the build and 130lbs off the front the car should be a solid 12s car if I hook it right. That's fast enough for me and its faster than a lot on the road today anyhow.
Update:
1) Finally got the car back from the body shop. The water leak issue is mostly solved. There was a small leak still present, but I was able to fix it with adhesive weather stripping attached to the inner part of the door. This will work for now until I get the door adjusted better.
2) Installed fuel pressure gauge on the rail and fuel pressure is fine (i.e., 40psi line off).
3) Checked ignition wire routing = fine.
4) Checked ignition timing = 6-8 BTDC = not fine. Timing advanced to 10 BTDC.
5) Removed tint from driver and passenger side windows = SO much better looking now.
As it stands, the car smells less of obnoxious exhaust fumes. The idle is still too rough in the sense that this cam simply cannot be stock. There could be some other issue, but I'm at a loss if there is. The problem is that I don't know what cam is in the car and I have 1.72RRs. I'm concerned the lift is too much for street use and/or mushrooming the valve stems if too much lift.
Am I worrying for nothing? Input gentlemen?
Next up, I'll be installing two high flow CA converters to clear up the smell a bit. While in there I plan to replace the transmission crossmember as one side of the current unit has too much rust.
1) Finally got the car back from the body shop. The water leak issue is mostly solved. There was a small leak still present, but I was able to fix it with adhesive weather stripping attached to the inner part of the door. This will work for now until I get the door adjusted better.
2) Installed fuel pressure gauge on the rail and fuel pressure is fine (i.e., 40psi line off).
3) Checked ignition wire routing = fine.
4) Checked ignition timing = 6-8 BTDC = not fine. Timing advanced to 10 BTDC.
5) Removed tint from driver and passenger side windows = SO much better looking now.
As it stands, the car smells less of obnoxious exhaust fumes. The idle is still too rough in the sense that this cam simply cannot be stock. There could be some other issue, but I'm at a loss if there is. The problem is that I don't know what cam is in the car and I have 1.72RRs. I'm concerned the lift is too much for street use and/or mushrooming the valve stems if too much lift.
Am I worrying for nothing? Input gentlemen?
Next up, I'll be installing two high flow CA converters to clear up the smell a bit. While in there I plan to replace the transmission crossmember as one side of the current unit has too much rust.
Removed the tint? Man, adding tint was one of the better appearance mods I've ever done I think.
It's an opinion thing. However, here in Kalifornia tint is illegal on the front windows. The police don't always pull people over, but I don't want to give them a reason.
I [do] like the way your car looks though.
See if there are any codes present. I thought my car had a cam for a while too, hahaYep
Any thoughts on the rest of the questions?
Will do. On the way home from the body shop the CEL came on, but went off after a few minutes of driving. I'm kinda aggravated because I only wanted a stock cam.
I'll check codes in a bit and let you know. Two heads are better than one. Also, I'm wondering about the valve train adjustment. My tech who installed it was the tech which I later fired for failure to follow directions, poor work ethic, and stirring up trouble. The tech whom I later hired and put on my car is a great tech who really made the project his own.
Anyhow, I know that if the valve train isn't set up a specific way it will cause issues.
Update: Codes, Yuck!
KOEO = none
Continuous Memory =
41 HEGO sensor voltage low / system lean (and/or) No HO2S switching detected.
91 HEGO sensor signal out of range /always lean.
96 Fuel pump secondary circuit / high speed fuel pump relay open.
Interestingly, my O2 sensors have less that 100 miles on them. As for code 96, I'm not exactly sure what's wrong. The fuel pump seems to work fine. Any thoughts?
I cannot get any KOER codes until Continuous is fixed because they could be invalid.
KOEO = none
Continuous Memory =
41 HEGO sensor voltage low / system lean (and/or) No HO2S switching detected.
91 HEGO sensor signal out of range /always lean.
96 Fuel pump secondary circuit / high speed fuel pump relay open.
Interestingly, my O2 sensors have less that 100 miles on them. As for code 96, I'm not exactly sure what's wrong. The fuel pump seems to work fine. Any thoughts?
I cannot get any KOER codes until Continuous is fixed because they could be invalid.
