Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

[jrichker]

Red and red/black are the inertia switch wiring.
LT GREEN-ORANGE LH REAR TURN SIGNAL LAMP
Solid black and black/lt. blue are ground wires. Use your DVM/ ohmmeter to check the resistance between the wire and body ground. You should see less than 1 ohm.

 

[joetrainer31]

Red and red/black are the inertia switch wiring.
LT GREEN-ORANGE LH REAR TURN SIGNAL LAMP
Solid black and black/lt. blue are ground wires. Use your DVM/ ohmmeter to check the resistance between the wire and body ground. You should see less than 1 ohm.

Ok, on the inertia switch pigtail. Is there a test at the pigtail I can run to make sure the circuit is working properly [before] I plug it in? I've found several wiring hacks my guys missed. I don't want to just plug it in and possibly fry something.

On the round pigtail with the green wire. It does not seem to be the LH turn signal. That particular turn signal is already plugged in and working. Although, it does seem to have the same wire combo. Here it is right above the inertia switch.

Here is the connector I'm talking about from a different angle (its also too far to the right to reach the LH turn signal):

Last one. The pigtail for ground...

I ohm tested both the dual and single inlet sides. The single side ground to body = .4ohms. The dual side = 2.2ohms. Are both sides supposed to be ground? Also, what in the heck does this plug into or is it superfluous?

 

[89oem]

airbag / collision sensor plugs??

 

[joetrainer31]

airbag / collision sensor plugs??

In the trunk? On a 1990 car? I have no problem if it is. It's just hard for me to see how it could be on an older car with one air bag. You may be right though!

 

[joetrainer31]

Update: Wired Weird!

Considering the many wiring hacks I've found in this car I didn't want to just go and plug the inertia switch pigtail back in. I was afraid of frying something. So, here's what I did:

1) On the inertia switch pigtail I tested the red/blk wire for continuity straight to ground -nadda.

2) Then, I tried testing the solid red wire for power w/KOEO, but I didn't see any. This confused me and I wondered if my light wasn't working. Therefore, I left the jumper as is and checked to see if the car started -it did.

3) Then, I checked for fuel pump prime upon KOEO several times -it primed.

4) Next, I unhooked one side of the jumper (the jumper was so loose a stiff breeze would've made it fall out). With one side unhooked the pump would not prime, nor would the car start. At this point I thought it safe to assume that my light was bunk and that there was indeed power from the pump relay to the pigtail at KOEO.

5) Therefore, I hooked up the pigtail to the switch and checked for pump prime KOEO. The pump primed fine.

6) Then, I tried starting the car. The car started fine. Everything seems to be good.

I'm assuming someone jumpered it during diagnostics to remove the inertia switch variable and forgot to hook it back up properly. As far as the other 2 pigtails go, I could not locate anything in the vicinity into which they plug. So, I zip-tied everything secure, made sure all the wires were insulated, and put the rear panel back.

When I first found that jumpered wire it was dangling in the trunk just begging to short out and/or fall out and leave me stranded. Thank the Lord I noticed this foolishness.

 

[89oem]

My guess (and experience), dang car wont start, no pump sound, inertia switch popped - easiest... yep, wheres a chuncknofcwire so I can get home...... 10 years later....

 

[joetrainer31]

My guess (and experience), dang car wont start, no pump sound, inertia switch popped - easiest... yep, wheres a chuncknofcwire so I can get home...... 10 years later....

I guess so. The thing was, it was running while jumpered (understandable), then after testing, it ran while plugged in. I just wanted to check [before] I plugged in. Maybe someone forgot to plug it back in? Who knows. Anyhow, that would be a booger to diag on the side of the road if I had not of seen how loose that jumper was.

 

[joetrainer31]

Question:

Working on the interior. It looked like a homicide scene. It also rattled, had tons of road noise, and got really hot. I'm going to replace the headliner with a nice one-piece unit from LMR. I'd like to insulate between the headliner and the roof. I don't want any tar based products. Any suggestions, experiences, and/or reasonings?

Additionally, I already handled the doors with new moisture vapor barrier and sound deadener from LMR as well. That alone made a big difference in noise. It also made the door feel more solid when closing and remedied all door rattles. There will be many before/after pics coming up.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Stinger Roadkill

 

[joetrainer31]

Stinger Roadkill

Thanks, man. I'll look it up. Any particular reason you like the product?

 

[hoopty5.0]

Thanks, man. I'll look it up. Any particular reason you like the product?

I don't think it's asphalt based as you'd asked. But also because it's the only product I have direct experience with. Made an astronomical difference in my ride quality

 

[joetrainer31]

I don't think it's asphalt based as you'd asked. But also because it's the only product I have direct experience with. Made an astronomical difference in my ride quality

Very interesting.
1) Where did you use it?
2) Can it be used on vertical surfaces like between the headliner and roof?
3) Did it make a difference in sound and heat?

 

[hoopty5.0]

Very interesting.
1) Where did you use it?
2) Can it be used on vertical surfaces like between the headliner and roof?
3) Did it make a difference in sound and heat?

1) floorboard mainly
2) yes, I just ran out before I got there
3) didn't notice heat as I never thought it was a problem before, but the difference in sound is fantastic. Before, I couldn't talk on the phone in the car. Now it's quieter than my '12

 

[joetrainer31]

Update: Inside Job

The Nasty Ninety Notch was a wreck when I first got it. Among other terrors there was the interior. It looked like a homicide scene -really. Here are some before and after pics:

Crap Fest (Before) Interior shot. So much wrong here, nothing matches except the wrongness:

Before Door Panel:

Before Door handle area. The text box at the bottom is stating that on the rear of this panel (and the other side too), there is black & green mold due to no vapor barrier.

So, the old panels came off and vapor barrier went on. Not only does it protect the panel it also cuts down on road noise:

Then, the new door panel, new arm rest pad, new inner door handle, new sound deadening behind panel, and the rest cleaned:

New window switches:

Passenger side:

 

[joetrainer31]

Update: Inside Job 2

Next, I moved on to the rest of the interior (carpet and seats had already been replaced.

Driver side scuff plate (same for passenger side):

Before center console (nasty):

After, center console:

Before, dash. Someone tried spraying the dash pad in the car with regular blk spray paint (pathetic):

After, new dash:

No more hole in the middle, Radio Bezel:

It took some hard work, but this car's interior went from nasty to nice. I hate getting into a dirty old interior.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Clean interiors get me all hot and bothered. So often, they are neglected and stripped or just trashed because saving for an HCI is more important to the owner. Kudos, man!

 

[joetrainer31]

Clean interiors get me all hot and bothered. So often, they are neglected and stripped or just trashed because saving for an HCI is more important to the owner. Kudos, man!

Thank you! I actually enjoyed redoing the interior more than the rest of the car. I still plan on replacing the headliner and installing a layer of stinger roadkill while I'm at it. I figured that if I'm in this far, and the headliner is aged, why not hit that too!

Anyhow, I'm with you on the interior. I can't stand a stinky, hot, rattle trap interior. I mean, really? You have a fox that runs great, but you want to sit inside of a virtual dumpster? How does that work? I thank the Lord I was able to do it.

 

[joetrainer31]

Update: Chill Out

It looks like next up is a bigger radiator. It seems that, during these hotter SoCal days, if I drive around town then sit in traffic with the A/C on that my cooling system cannot keep up. After about 3-5 minutes idling the temp gauge will creep up half way between middle and the next line up. That's too close to the "runaway train" for me -you know, once the temp gets to a certain point there is no stopping it unless you shut the car off. The entire cooling system is new, the pulleys are stock (for this reason), so I'm left with calling the radiator as the weak link.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Update: Chill Out

It looks like next up is a bigger radiator. It seems that, during these hotter SoCal days, if I drive around town then sit in traffic with the A/C on that my cooling system cannot keep up. After about 3-5 minutes idling the temp gauge will creep up half way between middle and the next line up. That's too close to the "runaway train" for me -you know, once the temp gets to a certain point there is no stopping it unless you shut the car off. The entire cooling system is new, the pulleys are stock (for this reason), so I'm left with calling the radiator as the weak link.

I have a cheap-o Champion 2 core that works like... a champ. Hah.

 

[joetrainer31]

I have a cheap-o Champion 2 core that works like... a champ. Hah.

That's good. I guess the name suites it then. It seems that it doesn't take much to overwhelm the stock radiator; a little extra compression, a few more cubic inches, and it taps?

Anyhow, I ordered the SVE radiator from LMR.com. I put one in the last build (an SN95 w/351w), and it did fine. Therefore, I'm thinking it should be fine for this build. Wouldn't you say?

Also, went ahead and got a new overflow tank as the on there isn't leaking, but looks original. I figure, why risk it at this point.