Oil/oil Change

I might be wrong, and I am over my quota for the week but I've read that with the new generation of attitives in the stuff you buy today and the metallurgy (did I actually use that word) used in the engine's today its not needed. But it can't hurt either.
I always thought it was for flat tappet cam break in.
The goverment paid environmentalists said it f's up sensors or cats or dogs and cats, I forget.
 
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I might be wrong, and I am over my quota for the week but I've read that with the new generation of attitives in the stuff you buy today and the metallurgy (did I actually use that word) used in the engine's today its not needed. But it can't hurt either.
I always thought it was for flat tappet cam break in.
The goverment paid environmentalists said it f's up sensors or cats or dogs and cats, I forget.

Can'take really say for sure, but Ed Curtis from FTI recommended it when he designed my cam. it may not be needed for today's OEM roller cams, but most of them are not running the spring pressures and cam profiles that some of us are.

Joe
 
Currently, I use Mobil 1 High-Mileage 10w-30 synthetic oil and motorcraft FL-1A filter. My car had oil glaze build-up in the engine (no sludge though) from lots of short trips and usage of crappy standard jiffy-lube oil and no-name oil filter. 400 miles later, and the oil is already darkening. It's cleaning up the engine pretty good.
 
zinc helps to protect against wear on metal parts. I use Rotella in my cars for years which they say is a "diesel" oil as it has higher zinc properties.

I'm currently using Rotella T6 in a jeep 4.0. Those have flat tappet cams, so it helps to have extra zinc. But, I've heard they reduced the zinc a bit in those oils also. I've looked up the Mobil 1 high mileage and it actually has a lot of zinc in it.