Progress Thread Project Problem Child

  • Sponsors (?)


Ordered gaskets,cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings, piston rings, and brass freeze plugs.
The mains needed +.001". Gonna plastigauge the rods and mains jic. Coming along. Hope to be fully assembled by Friday and gonna try to put it in over the weekend
 
well, its on hold again. cleaned everything and got ready to assemble...then noticed the crank I picked up for $50 is a 2MA. the 28OZ imbalance crank. so, either gotta go and find another crank or send back the bearings I got and get .040 under mains and .020 under rod bearings and use my old crank.. not a happy camper.
 
My mission is for it to be done and on the road in 30 days. I'm open to anything,at this point. I'm heading to the machine shop in the morning to raise hell. Because I asked several times if it was a 2mae crank and the guy kept saying it was. So, I took his word for it. Got to lookin when I was pressure washing everything and noticed the stamping on the crank. I figured the lip was kinda odd,but didn't think anything of it. Live and.learn. so, if anyone wants some free advise .....don't take anyone's word for :poo:. Don't care if it's your best friend. Everyone is human and will be wrong at some point. Just make sure it isn't you that they are wrong with.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Got the short block done today. Also finished the heads. Cut the guides down to a .530 and used a set of positive lock valve seals. Lapped the valves and such. I don't know what the deal is with everyone worried about the installed.1.tootj height on the exhaust,tho. Did all my checking with a set of no name retainers and found that I had .755" of clearance between the retainer and the valve seal on the exhaust side. Also, the installed height did end up being 1.78. The intake side was off about .080" of being too tall. Shimmed them up and let em ride. Spring pressure ended up being about 150-160lbs on the seat on both sides.
 
Ok, I'm not getting any clear answers,so I'll ask here. When I went to bolt down my rockers, if I tightened anything past zero lash, it would hold the valves open and would take 1-1/2 turn before the pedestal stopped the bolt to torque it. I ordered shims. Now, what in the heck is the real deal? Zero lash plus turns or what? Because my lifters aren't giving a lick and I got 150lbs seat pressure. I just damn sure don't want an open valve...
 
I'm not sure that I fully understand your description. I've always done it one way:

Find the flat spot for each valve, tighten until I feel drag on the push-rod, and tighten a quarter to half of a turn.\\

I generally do a quarter turn because I don't really care if they're noisy. If you like it a little more quiet, snug them up a bit more, not to exceed half a turn. No open valves.
 
well, im gonna try the .015 shims cause as of right now, my car sounds like a sewing machine.... but, the car is up and running. next is tuning. then paint and tires. then new springs and lower control arms..and then and then....its never gonna be done. I do know if this bitch gives me any problems, im doing a turbo build.lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Dynoed the car today. 308hp and 335tq at the wheels. People can say what they want about ots cams..but this n41 is awesome. It did want 18* base timing for best power. When I took it yo 15, from 17, it lost 8hp. Went to 18 and picked up 10. Tq curve was nice and flat Dnot know what my a/f ratio was. My dumps were too close to the rollers and they were worried about messing up their equimpment. Did find that my heater core is loeaking. So that will be fixed monday. Over all,inhappy
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users