So I've searched around and can't seem to find how to convert from a 65 200 I6 manual choke to auto choke. I read on http://classicinlines.com/AutoliteCarbs.asp#7 that electric chokes aren't the best. Where do I start? This is my first 1 bbl carb that I've ever touched. Also, I did find discussions about 2 bbl carb swaps, would that help me in any way? The reason I'm changing it is the choke cable is moving very roughly and isn't doing anything at the engine and I can't seem to find if the cable has popped off of the choke or is bound somewhere.
Pulling My Hair Out (65 200 Auto Choke)
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tos
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I've never messed with autochokes but am familiar with how they work. I personally see more potential problems with them because of the nature of how they work and how conditions can affect them. I personally have had good luck with electric chokes and prefer them myself. If adjusted properely they perform good and are timed well to go along with the rise in temp of the engine. Have you considered water choke? I've also had good luck with them due to the fact that they use heated water/coolant off your cooling system and are probably the only choke system that rises exactly with the engine temp because its adjusting itself as the water temp and engine temp rise although they are not widely popular and I don't know how available they are for your setup. They were used a lot on British cars and some us cars but again I prefer electric (just make sure your power to an electric choke is switched but constant).
tos
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Goclevlands
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I had similar problems with my 289 4 bbl eldebroc I went manual and wouldn't change it for the world.
A manual choke is simple if you remember to use it. And as you have a 1966, I bet you do not mind having to actually drive a car. My first vote is to install a new choke cable and make sure the flap and carb linkage is not binding. That is the cheap, easy and reliable answer.
Electric chokes are easy to install IF a kit is available for your carb. What brand and model is your 1bbl? If you had a Holley 2 or 4bbl, there would be a kit that screws on and requires a full 12v switched power source. (Do not use the power wire for the ignition. It is switched, but is either a resistor wire or has a resistor for some brands. This will slow the opening of the choke.) After you adjust the timing (tightness) and the screw that hits the high idle cam, (this will take some puttering and a number of cold starts), you can forget about it.
I doubt switching carbs is practical unless you also switch intake manifolds to one that is made for a 2bbl. I am picturing that you would need an adaptor to fit a 2bbl carb, so there would still be a restriction at the base of the carb. (Feel free to correct me if the 66 200 6 manifold is not 1bbl specific.) Clifford is one place that can get you a manifold for a 2 or little 4bbl carb.
Electric chokes are easy to install IF a kit is available for your carb. What brand and model is your 1bbl? If you had a Holley 2 or 4bbl, there would be a kit that screws on and requires a full 12v switched power source. (Do not use the power wire for the ignition. It is switched, but is either a resistor wire or has a resistor for some brands. This will slow the opening of the choke.) After you adjust the timing (tightness) and the screw that hits the high idle cam, (this will take some puttering and a number of cold starts), you can forget about it.
I doubt switching carbs is practical unless you also switch intake manifolds to one that is made for a 2bbl. I am picturing that you would need an adaptor to fit a 2bbl carb, so there would still be a restriction at the base of the carb. (Feel free to correct me if the 66 200 6 manifold is not 1bbl specific.) Clifford is one place that can get you a manifold for a 2 or little 4bbl carb.
From the research I've done the 200 has an integrated intake to the head. I have a few options though as far as changing the carb. I can either modify the existing intake by grinding and honing it to accept a 2bbl carb. Purchase a Classic Inlines aluminum cylinder head that allows aftermarket intake manifolds. Get an adaptor like you said, and also like you said it would still be a single, restricting hole for flow. The last option is find a 250ci head but that from what I've read also requires a lot of machine work so I don't open up my compression ration to crap.
Thanks for the response though. For the time being I'm going to stick with the manual choke and troubleshoot it. Maybe I just don't know how to use it like I thought I did.
Thanks for the response though. For the time being I'm going to stick with the manual choke and troubleshoot it. Maybe I just don't know how to use it like I thought I did.
Find a mechanic that is at least 45 years old. Unless he has inhaled too many gas fumes, it will be a relatively easy, quick and cheap fix. A kid that has only been trained in OBD II often will not have a clue about what to do with a manual choke or points. Many are confused about the EECIV in my Fox.
The manual choke is a really simple system. Push the pedal down part way and pull the cable's knob. The choke flap should close. Push it back in as the car warms up and that is it until next time you start it.
Changing an integral manifold/head is probably not worth the money and time.
The manual choke is a really simple system. Push the pedal down part way and pull the cable's knob. The choke flap should close. Push it back in as the car warms up and that is it until next time you start it.
Changing an integral manifold/head is probably not worth the money and time.
I went home at lunch and watched the cable as I pushed and pulled on it. The first push opened up the flap, no problem, pulled the knob and it closed. I pushed it again and nothing happened, pulled, pushed, pulled pushed, no movement. So I took the bracket off the bottom of the dash and noticed the solid sleeve that goes in to the back of the bracket was not connected anymore so as I was pushing and pulling I was just moving the cable through the bracket rather than moving the wire through the cable.
Did you find a new cable? It used to be a common parts store item, either car specific or MotorMite/Help rack section universal part.
I've been thinking about it but I had to "rig" something up for my wife today so that took some of my brain cells today. I'll try and take a look tomorrow and see what I can figure out. I'll take pics when I come up with something. You guys are awesome.
The $65 is why I suggested the universal one. If you have a NAPA (or Carquest or any store that can order stuff) Motormite (the "Help!" product line) or Dorman should be able to order a universal, trim to length cable for much less. The knob will not match exactly, but do you care?
Here is a universal control cable from "oh really's" for $7.99, no rigging needed.
Dorman Help! 55196 - Standard Push-Pull Cable | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Here is a universal control cable from "oh really's" for $7.99, no rigging needed.
Dorman Help! 55196 - Standard Push-Pull Cable | O'Reilly Auto Parts
