Should I do resto-mods or no? want your opinions!!

montys69mach

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Sep 11, 2004
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I just bought a 69 Mach 1 (351w 2V) that is completely original and a great driver. The problem is that the car is too slow. It is an H code which means it has a 2V carb. Also not helping it move out of its own way is the heavy (and starting to leak) FMX tranny. It has a 9" with 3.00's as well. I am having a hard time deciding what to do with the car. This is where I would like to hear your opinions, and any other help would be appreciated. As is, it is in excellent condition. The suspension is all original and can use some help too. What do you recommend as far as street driving and cruising for suspension. I would like to put 17x8 and 17x9.5 Torque thrust II's. How should I set up the suspension to give it that low mean stance with nice wheels to fill the gaps. I don't want to spend the money on a coilover kit from GW. I don't want to start drilling holes and getting to involved with suspension, just a good handling kit that will lower it.
As for the drivetrain, should I pull the original motor and drop in a stroker motor (this is what I would like to do but don't want to spend that much) or put a manifold and carb on the original and add the new Paxton Novi 1200 supercharger kit made for the 69 mustang with a 351w. I was thinking of doing a T-5 swap but not sure if there is a lot of cutting involved to switch from auto to manual. Someone said it might not be a good idea to swap a t5 if i would decide to put it back to original oneday. Anything I do modify i will tag and store it. I have considered a built AOD and not have to cut anything. I know its hard to give an opinion if you do not know what my intention is with the car. I will be mostly going to cruise spots and shows, and maybe some weekend racing on occasion. I am a speed freak but realize there's no where to use 600 hp on long island anymore. I would be happy with 400-450hp. Another question would be what gears to run in the rear. I know this depends on the tranny I use. Either way I would like to go with an OD so I'm guessing 3.91 or 4.11's. I am looking forward to hearing from you and your opinions, on helping me make the right plan the first time. Thank you in advance.
 
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Monty,

here's an idea from a previous Mach owner (my Ex has it now)

Definitely give the motor a power transfusion, possibly a 391 or 427 stroker, but do your best to hide it under stock Dressing, including a shaker hood scoop. 5-speed T-56 to a 3.91 cogged 9" out back. Drop the entire car 1", 15" Magnums, step up the brakes, but don't go goofy, and beefy suspension bits. Interior, keep it close to stock. Body, all stock, but do a Mach paint scheme with modern colors.

Basically you are creating a wolf in sheep's clothing, a retomod without the "Gawk" factor, and can trailer those beauty queens without breaking a sweat!

Come to think of it, that's exactly what I did with the Mach, though it was a factory "R" code car, but the FE lump has quite healthier than stock! 13 second ET's in full street trim, Open track at SAAC conventions, and 12-14 MPG if I kept my foot out of it, and drove it from Eastern PA to Michigan, Charlotte, and other tracks!

Just my thinking, keep it conservative looking, but built to kill underneath!
 
That sounds like a good plan Chepsk8. I always thought the factory got is pretty close to right with appearance, but they needed a little help mechanically.

These cars are becoming valuable, so anything you do, make it reversible. I won't race mine, because of roll cage or driveshaft safety loop considerations. I don't want to weld or drill into the virgin california frame or floorpans.

I did put a very warm 393 in it, and I am running it through an FMX and 3.50 gears. With Magnum 500s and 255/60r15 tires, I don't fully hook up until a little over 50mph. That is probably more than enough for fun on the island.
 
i agree with most of what chepie suggested. however as for the motor i would get a 94-97 351w block since it is roller cam compatible so you can use something like an f-303 roller cam , buy the 393 stroker kit that uses the stock rods and 302 pistons. for heads i would get a decent set of aftermarket cast iron heads like the roush 200's by world products and a good intake and carb like a wieand stealth intake and demon carb. this should be a fairly inexpensive motor that should 400-450 hp easily. for the tranny i would go with the aod since it is going to be a cruiser and not a racer for the most part. as for the rear gears, 3.91's or 3.70's would be a good choice. you might consider some more modern front seats for comfort but i would leave the rest of the interior mostly stock. if the paint job is good i would leave it as is for now. 17" wheels would be cool but they make magnum 500's in 16" now too and maybe 17" in steel or you could get the billet magnums in 17 or 18" too. there are a lot of mods you make to the stock suspension pieces and get a much better suspension than the factory gave us. brakes i would go for at least 12" front and 11" rear disc or 13" front and 11 or 12" rear if you go with 17's.
 
i like the mods suggested regarding the engine. i too would use a roller cam block and build a 393, and keep it reasonably mild. it will still make some good power though. i would NOT use a T5 in this case as the torque would likely split the case into several pieces, the T56 is a plan, but chepsk8 it is a 6spd NOT a 5spd, honest mistake i know :D a better trans though would be the richmond 4+1 5spd(not an overdrive, but you can use 2.50-3.00 gears with a deep first gear like a 4.05 for your dig off the line) as it is a much stronger tranny than the T56 is, and it fits the mustang trans tunnel much better than a tremec does. for wheels, i think i would stay with a 16x8 wheel on all four corners and a 245/50r-16 tire, or there about. tire clearance is one reason, but also oyu dont need the wider tire or the shorter sidewall unless you are going all out road racing. remember since oyu are going to drive this car on the street you need at least an acceptable ride quality as well. the difference in handling will likely never be seen or noticed.
 
Ah no, just the opposite, I'm always thrilled when many agree with me!! I'm 44 years young, and regressing every day!!!

This thread accurately describes the car I lost in my divorce! the SCJ with 3.25 gears could do an easy 130, if pushed, probably close to 150. It had brute force, but was docile enough to drive to cruises, and do the long rides to conventions! I have always beleived in building a car to function fully, worry about the flash later. Never overdress to attract attention, unless you want it. I like the stealth approach! Even Chepie followed this approach, though it wasn't nearly as fast! Now as I build my Cobra, I am paying carefull attention to the suspension & brakes, determined to make this snake serious enough for the track, yet can drive it coast to coast if I choose!

You did no wrong!
 
definitely restomod. My 67 was all original when I bought it from its third owner...the guy showed it & won over 30 trophies with it. However, I wanted to drive this car as much as possible, and as insane as the SoFL drivers are, I knew that I was no match out on the roads (I'm not talking about racing; just normal driving surrounded by cell-phone yapping, 4-lane drifting, makeup applying, road raging morons), so I figured that I'd upgrade things a bit. Now my car handles very well compared to when I started (still has a few bugs to work out), and I love the lowered, slightly agressive stance. Every time I take the car out I get compliments on it.
I'm not done, either...just getting a solid platform built which will handle some power.