Drivetrain So Frustrated Right Now.

rabidscoobie

10 Year Member
Jun 21, 2007
616
12
48
College Station,TX
So 2 years ago I replaced the entire clutch,
Pressure plate,disk,pilot bearing and TB(FRPP) and all was fine then months or so back the TB started squealing and well of course not happy.
I was told the clutch quadrant was in bad shape so I replaced it with a billet amd that fixed some adjusting issues.
Well fast Forward to this weekend and I decided to get that chirping TB replaced before my son leaves for the Navy next week so he could help plus Im moving in a month. Spent friday afternoon pulling it all apart,putting a FRPP TB in an it all went so smooth.

First time I crank it up and guess what.....its squeals like a stuck pig, worse than the one I just replaced.
I have done a few clutches in my life and never had this happen that I can remember.
So hours worth a work,busted knuckles and skinned elbows....I dont have access to a lift.

Can anyone recommend a good brand for a TB?
This makes 2 TB's from FRPP that have been...well,crap for me. I dont dog the car hard,I only put maybe 5000 miles a year on it so that says how much I got out of the last one....maybe 10,000 miles.

I want to get this fixed soon along with the struts since in a few months I will be stripping the paint down for a repaint.I have no intentions of getting rid of it for a long time,if I get to where I need a new car this becomes a toy and I only have about 80,000 miles on it.
 
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The only one I HAVE had luck with is the Ford bearing. Try greasing it with some lithium grease taking care to avoid the clutch plate.

Thx for the reply but after really looking at things today, it never was the TOB.

When I took out the old FRPP TOB I thought that it seemed to be in to good a shape for a bad one from my past experiences with them.

Earlier this week I was able to get my hand up in the dust cover and greased the retainers on the fork some more and that stopped the squeal.
But Saturday I started getting a new sound,kind of a knocking/loud tick sound. Sounded bad.

So today I removed the dust cover and played around with the fork and when wiggling up and down(towards the body and ground) I got a very similar tick sound. Cranked it and climbed under and the fork shakes up and down way to much. The shaft and bearing look good,they are not wobbling at all. Me being and idiot and not thinking I didnt even bother to check the fork and pivot ball when I had it apart. The play and tick sound looks and sounds like its coming from where the fork and ball connect. So im thinking a worn ball stud and fork.

So Im just gonna call ford tomorrow and hope they have the parts and tear it back down. I knew better but just overlooked it since people kept stopping by when I did the TOB and just lost track of what I was doing. Only took me about 6 or so hours to tear it down and get it back together. If it wasnt for the 2 top tranny bolts I could get it done so much faster.
Its these times I really miss my 92 TA I had years ago with the T5(if I remember right that is),man that tranny was so much easier to pull,I could have it out in 2 hours tops.Separate trans and bell.

Im also open to anything else that could be causing this issue. Pressure plate fingers look good and even,no damage and the shaft didnt seem to have play in it. Only parts left to my knowledge would be the pilot bearing or something worse.
 
Is it sort of a rattle that goes away when the clutch is disengaged?

More like a ticking/very light knocking sound.
I tore it down yesterday and found what was wrong.
Please correct me if Im wrong here,but didnt Ford use threadlocker on the clutch pivot ball from the factory? I do not have any trust in the local Ford dealer.
Reason I ask is a few years back Ford did some warranty work on the trans looking for a sound and replaced the clutch fork,ball stud,TOB, and pilot.

My ball stud was backing out about a 1/4 or so. From being loose it chewed up the ball and clutch fork. Pulled the ball stud and not a single hint of thread locker on it. When I tore it down couple weeks back I checked and it was tight so I didnt touch it.

So new ball stud and clutch fork and its nice quiet and smooth clutch.

But my ball joints were bad so I did those this morning,now good tight steering. So now I have all new suspension since all the control arm bushings in front and rear were really dry. All done now. I did the rear this spring.
 
you wana stop by my place? I'm pretty sure need the same stuff done with the trans and suspention ;)

Lol.
If there is one thing I hate doing,it's pulling the Trans in these mustangs.
3rd gen Z28's and TA's were so much easier to do,only problem with those were you always had to work on them to keep them running unlike these newer Fords.

Next spring I will have a hell of job to do on this mach. Gotta strip the paint down to bare metal. This Texas sun destroyed the yellow. The roof,hood and trunk is bad. Looks and feels like alligator skin. No way I'm doing it in the summer time here.
I'll drive this car until it completely falls apart on me. Only other must and I'm interested in is a 2013 boss.
 
Ok now im starting to get a bit pissed over this trans.

Everything has been working fine until this morning.
It started out that when I would push the clutch pedal almost to the floor it would have a slight catch feeling then would go to the floor,shifting fine.
Then I figured Id get it back home quick.
Well on the way at 1000 rpm's I started hearing a tapping sound again just like when the Ball Stud issue came up, but now when I press the clutch down its not allowing me to go into gears unless I pump the pedal a few times.

Im guessing it could be the same issue as before,but I put the ball stud in good and tight with red loctite.
When the car cools I'll pull the dust cover a look at what I can see. But most likely in the morning the trans is coming back out. I have replaced many clutches since the early 90's and never had any issues like this so I just dont get it.
What sucks more is I move in just over a week.,

Any ideas? Anything anyone could think of checking before I pull the trans Sunday morn.
Clutch and pilot is about a yeah and half old and still looks really good.
Replaced the fork,ball stud, and TOB in the last month.
 
Ok pulled the dust cover and it is doing the exact same as the last time,clutch fork is bouncing all over the place...up and down just like the ball stud is loose again.

So last time I installed a new stud,used locktite and cranked it down. Could not find any torque specs on it.
Anyone have any info or anything to keep this from happening again so when I pull the trans tomorrow I can make sure this is right.
Isnt the first time I have replaced these parts in various cars,but this is the first time I have had an issue with the ball stud backing out. So im kind of lost as to why this is happening.
 
Well I got everything back together this morning.
The TOB I replaced about a month ago was in 4 pieces. Looking at it close though it does not resemble a Ford TOB at all. So I have no clue what they gave me.I bought it a few months ago from online but cant remember it I got it from American Muscle,LMR, or Rock Auto.
I think I got it from Rock auto but between myu car and my sons car I have ordered so many parts I cant really remember what came from where.

After this I dont think I'll ever use a non Ford TOB even though I never intended to. The Ford bearing I got looks exactly like the Ford Racing TOB I put in about 3 years back.I dont think there is any difference between the 2 other than a name branding and price.

But hey, having to pull the trans 3 times in a month got me fairly quick at doing it. I dont even have to guess at what size sockets or extensions are needed now,I just pick out all I need and go.....lol.
In total I got it out and back in.....in about 3-3 1/2 hrs. Not bad for me.
 
So 2 years ago I replaced the entire clutch,
Pressure plate,disk,pilot bearing and TB(FRPP) and all was fine then months or so back the TB started squealing and well of course not happy.
I was told the clutch quadrant was in bad shape so I replaced it with a billet amd that fixed some adjusting issues.
Well fast Forward to this weekend and I decided to get that chirping TB replaced before my son leaves for the Navy next week so he could help plus Im moving in a month. Spent friday afternoon pulling it all apart,putting a FRPP TB in an it all went so smooth.

First time I crank it up and guess what.....its squeals like a stuck pig, worse than the one I just replaced.
I have done a few clutches in my life and never had this happen that I can remember.
So hours worth a work,busted knuckles and skinned elbows....I dont have access to a lift.

Can anyone recommend a good brand for a TB?
This makes 2 TB's from FRPP that have been...well,crap for me. I dont dog the car hard,I only put maybe 5000 miles a year on it so that says how much I got out of the last one....maybe 10,000 miles.

I want to get this fixed soon along with the struts since in a few months I will be stripping the paint down for a repaint.I have no intentions of getting rid of it for a long time,if I get to where I need a new car this becomes a toy and I only have about 80,000 miles on it.
Hello, I am new to this site and am asking what is meant by :"TB(FRPP)? thanks in advance
 
Well I got everything back together this morning.
The TOB I replaced about a month ago was in 4 pieces. Looking at it close though it does not resemble a Ford TOB at all. So I have no clue what they gave me.I bought it a few months ago from online but cant remember it I got it from American Muscle,LMR, or Rock Auto.
I think I got it from Rock auto but between myu car and my sons car I have ordered so many parts I cant really remember what came from where.

After this I dont think I'll ever use a non Ford TOB even though I never intended to. The Ford bearing I got looks exactly like the Ford Racing TOB I put in about 3 years back.I dont think there is any difference between the 2 other than a name branding and price.

But hey, having to pull the trans 3 times in a month got me fairly quick at doing it. I dont even have to guess at what size sockets or extensions are needed now,I just pick out all I need and go.....lol.
In total I got it out and back in.....in about 3-3 1/2 hrs. Not bad for me.
So next time I need to pull my tranny I can count on your help? :)
 
And now the Ford TOB just failed yesterday.
The housing where the TOB slides into the fork is busted....I mean WTF are the odds of this crap. Never have I needed to drop a tranny for the same crap over and over again from just crap parts.
Talk about bad luck.
 
Something is going on, at this point it can't be just bad luck.. I don't even know what to suggest, seems like you've gone over everything. These cars are popular because they take a beating, and with proper maintenance, last a damn long time. I would maybe consult a pro, get an opinion, double check all the part numbers as well. Oh how fun it is to get parts for the 4V when you got a 2V, or vice versa, uhg.
 
Really I think it was just bad luck.
The first TOB was most likely just crappy off brand.
The 2nd time I pulled the tranny was for the damned ball stud and thats all fixed.
This time it was an actual Ford TOB.

I spoke with my cousin,former head ford tech that now works on exotic and rare cars and if said that it has happened to him on the Ford TOB's, again he said rare but it happens.
Just to double check more I checked with my cousins husband another ford tech out of state and he basically said the same...so I dunno. one has been a tech for 20 or so years and the other more than 30 years.

I went over and looked at everything they said to check out and its all good. They both are telling me bad luck. I guess we'll see. I'll be Ford Monday morn to get a new one.

Ive been lucky for the most part not too get the 4v and 2v parts mixed up. Only thing I had to get was a new PCV and the Mach 1 is expensive,I think over $30. I just bought a Cobra one for much less and its been good since.