Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread
- Thread starter hoopty5.0
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
24* was just used as an example.
you should have 20* fixed with 10*offset and10*mechanical
the 20* is what the MS is commanding as total timing but you have 10* mechanical
that would give you 30*.... so there is an offset in the program it "offsets" the timing (read subtracts) 10* to give you a true 20* total.
The way you have yours setup now will probably work I just don't know how the engine will react with that little cranking timing.
you should have 20* fixed with 10*offset and10*mechanical
the 20* is what the MS is commanding as total timing but you have 10* mechanical
that would give you 30*.... so there is an offset in the program it "offsets" the timing (read subtracts) 10* to give you a true 20* total.
The way you have yours setup now will probably work I just don't know how the engine will react with that little cranking timing.
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,821
- 5,856
- 203
OK...I got it. [emoji106]
I'll adjust it this weekend- don't want to wake the neighbors.
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,821
- 5,856
- 203
My car has a surge at idle after doing WUE auto tune. My AFR readings did drop to about 14.3 warm 170 degrees. I didn't have time to reset the timing. Here's a log. Any feedback would greatly be appreciated.
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,821
- 5,856
- 203
Thought about it and researched a bit. I think my issue is timing related....and the fact that my AFR table is changed from the one you sent me. Compare Tune is a life saver.
I should've left that stuff alone and focused on timing first. Live and learn.
I'm going to live like I don't actually like my neighbors tonite. Setting timing with 10° offset and straightening out the AFR table when I get home.....as long as its not raining.
I should've left that stuff alone and focused on timing first. Live and learn.
I'm going to live like I don't actually like my neighbors tonite. Setting timing with 10° offset and straightening out the AFR table when I get home.....as long as its not raining.
Man,you are gonna have to work on your stealthy ninja skills...lol
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,197
- 164
I am having some real trouble with accel enrichment table. It keeps bucking/popping bc of it going lean. I cant figure out how to get it to level out.
Any help would be appreciated
Any help would be appreciated
Ae is simple it's accel ms vs tps dot. Tps dot is how fast the pedal is depressed.
The actual graph I cannot tell you how to layout it's different between engines.
Your issue may be one of many things...
-Accel end pulse width needs to be 0
-accel pulse width 0.3
-accel taper 0.1
Tps dot% 10%
The rest can be left alone.
Turn the wot accel off. It causes problems
THE ONLY ACCEL SETTING THAT SHOULD BE ENABLED IS TIME BASED ACCEL ENRICHMENT.
Beyond this I would have to actually tune the setting myself to help you further.
The actual graph I cannot tell you how to layout it's different between engines.
Your issue may be one of many things...
-Accel end pulse width needs to be 0
-accel pulse width 0.3
-accel taper 0.1
Tps dot% 10%
The rest can be left alone.
Turn the wot accel off. It causes problems
THE ONLY ACCEL SETTING THAT SHOULD BE ENABLED IS TIME BASED ACCEL ENRICHMENT.
Beyond this I would have to actually tune the setting myself to help you further.
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,197
- 164
I had those original settings but it didn't work. I also disabled the wot accel per the diyautotune guys advice. That didn't help either. I have been increasing and decreasing added % just making it even richer or just lean throughout the tip-in.
I am for sure 100% TPS as I read to many issues with MAP based.
What is your MAP and TPS Lag Factor set to?
I was having erratic tpsdot issue, but then changed the Lag Factor from 50 to 95 and it made it so much better. I was going to change the MAP settings to 95 too to see if that helps. I think my VE Table on the upper ranges needs more work bc when I get on the throttle the dot on the VE table moves sideways and not up and then over, so my thought is its 50% Lag Factor is smoothing the MAP signal to much (reason for increasing to 95) so its not getting into the upper ranges of my table where it would richen the mixture making it lean.
Thoughts?
I am for sure 100% TPS as I read to many issues with MAP based.
What is your MAP and TPS Lag Factor set to?
I was having erratic tpsdot issue, but then changed the Lag Factor from 50 to 95 and it made it so much better. I was going to change the MAP settings to 95 too to see if that helps. I think my VE Table on the upper ranges needs more work bc when I get on the throttle the dot on the VE table moves sideways and not up and then over, so my thought is its 50% Lag Factor is smoothing the MAP signal to much (reason for increasing to 95) so its not getting into the upper ranges of my table where it would richen the mixture making it lean.
Thoughts?
Last edited:
The only time you use map for ae is when you do not have a tps.
Put the sliding bar all the way to the right.
You want 100%tps with NO MAP BLEND.
If your tps is noisy find out why, most likely you have an ignition source to close to the wiring. Make sure the plug wires are routed away from the harness.
Put the sliding bar all the way to the right.
You want 100%tps with NO MAP BLEND.
If your tps is noisy find out why, most likely you have an ignition source to close to the wiring. Make sure the plug wires are routed away from the harness.
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,197
- 164
The sliding bar is all the way to the right at 100% TPS based. I have NO MAP AE at all.
The TPS signal is clean. It was the TPSDot that was erratic. The Lag Factor under the General Settings was set to 50% making it slow and bouncy, so after some reading on msextra I saw others change the Lag Factor to 95-100% so the computer wasn't trying to smooth the signal.
What do you have your Lag Factors set too?
When I hit the throttle the Map kpa doesn't get above 50%, which I am assuming is incorrect making it hard for the tip-in to richen the mixture. That's why I was asking about the Lag Factors, since I think it maybe doing the same as my TPS was.
The TPS signal is clean. It was the TPSDot that was erratic. The Lag Factor under the General Settings was set to 50% making it slow and bouncy, so after some reading on msextra I saw others change the Lag Factor to 95-100% so the computer wasn't trying to smooth the signal.
What do you have your Lag Factors set too?
When I hit the throttle the Map kpa doesn't get above 50%, which I am assuming is incorrect making it hard for the tip-in to richen the mixture. That's why I was asking about the Lag Factors, since I think it maybe doing the same as my TPS was.
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,197
- 164
Do you by chance have the settings? I run a MSPNP2 with version 3.4.2 if that helps
My settings are:
Map
- Custom 0.0V = 9.3 5V = 260.9
Baro
- Custom 0.0V = 9.3 5V = 260.9
Correction
- Total Vaccuum = 147 Rate = -47
My settings are:
Map
- Custom 0.0V = 9.3 5V = 260.9
Baro
- Custom 0.0V = 9.3 5V = 260.9
Correction
- Total Vaccuum = 147 Rate = -47
Last edited:
Why are they set that way? That hasn't been used since 3.1.1 code.
I answer from memory while I'm on my phone I can get the info off my laptop later.
I answer from memory while I'm on my phone I can get the info off my laptop later.
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,197
- 164
I went looking at the calibration settings per your advice. It looks to be the base tune I was using was setup for the standard 2.5 Map/Baro Sensor. The MSPNP2 from diyautotune is upgraded to the MapDaddy 4 Bar Sensor making my calibration very WRONG. I plugged the computer in and the MAP was reading 66 with just the key on. I changed the calibration to the MapDaddy (MPXH6400) for both Map and Baro, set the Barometric Correction to both 0 and the Curve to 100%, and set the Barometric Correction to "Two Independent Sensors" per the MapDaddy instructions.
Now that I did this I updated the tune on the computer, and turned the key on. It now reads 97.2, which is HUGE. Time to start all over again tuning since my VE Table is all wrong.
Now that I did this I updated the tune on the computer, and turned the key on. It now reads 97.2, which is HUGE. Time to start all over again tuning since my VE Table is all wrong.
Very good. Now the baro sensor is not the same as the map. They may be one unit but they are not the same. I believe (from memory) the baro should be the mx4150?
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,197
- 164
I understand they are different. Baro = elevation and the MAP = atmosphere vacuum/pressure
I will be calling DIYAutotune on Monday to ask what they use in the MSPNP2.
Drove the car 4-5 more times after rescaling everything running Autotune. Its getting a lot better, but after re-enabling AE its goes for a sec and then falls on its face (goes lean for about 2 sec) then goes back to normal. I assume I needed to add a little Taper time to compensate for the issue.
I will be calling DIYAutotune on Monday to ask what they use in the MSPNP2.
Drove the car 4-5 more times after rescaling everything running Autotune. Its getting a lot better, but after re-enabling AE its goes for a sec and then falls on its face (goes lean for about 2 sec) then goes back to normal. I assume I needed to add a little Taper time to compensate for the issue.
No I mean the calibration for each is different. It's two separate sensors in one package.
You calibrated the MAP correctly
The baro uses a separate calibration I believe it's the mx4150
Do this, with the car off turn the key on and hookup TS.
Setup 2 gauges one for map and the other baro.
(On the TS gauge cluster)
They should read within .1 of each other kpa wise, With the engine off.
If they don't change the baro calibration to a different sensor, it's on the list.
You calibrated the MAP correctly
The baro uses a separate calibration I believe it's the mx4150
Do this, with the car off turn the key on and hookup TS.
Setup 2 gauges one for map and the other baro.
(On the TS gauge cluster)
They should read within .1 of each other kpa wise, With the engine off.
If they don't change the baro calibration to a different sensor, it's on the list.
Similar threads
