Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

[Sparky714]

Why are the wideband in however you would like I would suggest grounding it to the mega squirt ECU ground. Just take the White Band output to the O2 input on the board you can do this through the DB connector or solder it into the 02 wire on the stock harness it's really your choice. If the car is A5 speed car then I would suggest wiring the clutch into one of the extra relay inputs that would be POA or Flex there are others I will have to dig up the documentation for you for now just do the jumpers the way the documentation you have says we can go in once I find the other documentation and add the extra jumpers then we can grab wires that go out into the engine compartment and use them as outputs four relays this will ground the relay and then use the relay to turn on another device like electric fans or shift lights if you're planning on running supercharged in the future then everything that came in the kit is good for 20 pounds of boost good luck take your time

Oh, I see now, the 15pin connector can be configured for anything I want. I missed that. I'm going to make up a harness to bring out any future options I want to add.
I'll get it wired the way the documentation shows and start with that.

 

[a91what]

OK sorry for not responding sooner ive been busy..... building a few units for friends. the DIY site has actually been revamped and the documentation is much easier to find now. I am going to post some links that will help with the assembly for the main DIYPNP, the Mustang TFI system specific system, and the Extra Inputs/Outputs documents. if anyone has any questions relating to the documentation or how to wire/build circuits in the proto area of the MS board just post them up and I will do my best to come up with a solution.

just a FYI the proto area can be used to build non standard circuits [like 12v ouput instead of a grounded relay].... this system is also capable of accepting flex fuel inputs [e85 sensors] or wire in a second WB02 and split the two injector banks up each with there own fuel tables and ego correction.

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/documentation/diypnp-v1-5/
https://www.diyautotune.com/support...ntation/diypnp-v1-5/extra-inputs-and-outputs/
https://www.diyautotune.com/support...application-docs/1988-1993-ford-mustang-5-0l/

 

[Trevin]

I am glad this thread is here. I have a MS2 I will be installing and electronics and wiring are my weak points. Im excited to install it and hopefully I can be of help instead of asking for help.

 

[90sickfox]

@a91what ... There's a lot of good info here. I appreciate you sending the link. Didn't know you were so in depth with MS. Man I'm glad I found this thread....now I can stop cluttering my thread with questions.

 

[90sickfox]

This thread is awesome....I'd pay you too, Steve.

I've read on the great interweb that a knock sensor can be used with MS. The best part is I sourced one for a ford pickup and was going to mod it for a mic.... Has anyone played around with that fiction here ?

 

[a91what]

This thread is awesome....I'd pay you too, Steve.

I've read on the great interweb that a knock sensor can be used with MS. The best part is I sourced one for a ford pickup and was going to mod it for a mic.... Has anyone played around with that fiction here ?

Not yet. If you find that info please post it with a link. I offer my help for free, as of yet I have not received any monitory support from the members here nor do I expect to. I have not given anyone a way to pay me because I am not in the tuning business nor do I pretend to be a professional tuner. I simply understand the aspects of the program and hope to convey that information in a way that others can learn from it as well. I can and will help you with your build/tune but will not accept payment for any services, maybe I will offer a way to make a donation at some point in the future to my broke ass fund.

If you pay me and something goes amiss then I will feel responsible for that misinformation/tuning error. If I help you then I am not liable.

End disclaimer rant.

 

[a91what]

I made another video this one will go over some of the input/output circuits that you can build.

View: https://youtu.be/ielo1HgeeQU

 

[Farrell5.0]

Just take your time, I mentioned the trigger wizard before that is what helps you get TS and your mechanical timing lined up right. The ms can only do its thing once all parameters match up.

I've been having distributor gear wear issues so I pull my distributor to check on it. I did it for the first time on Friday, I wasn't sure how to correctly set timing so I just changed it to fixed so I could get a correct mechanical reading. I didn't pay attention to TS to see if it matched, which at this point I know for sure it doesn't. Do I just advance it to 10.0 in trigger wizard and verify in TS it's the same as the mechanical reading or do I need to change anything else along with it?

 

[Farrell5.0]

I just watched bird dog's video on timing setting. Gotta say, I'm still a little confused because there are several areas with timing input.

I want my base mechanical timing set at 10 degrees. So I set the offset to 10 degrees, correct? Then use the light to set the mechanical to 10 degrees, then set the trigger angle to 10 degrees as well?

I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here but I really want to make sure I get it right since my car has already been dyno tuned, I don't want to ruin my total timing at wot.

 

[Farrell5.0]

Ugh, one more question....I had opened up the trigger wizard, but wasn't sure of it's function so I left it alone. It was at 14 degrees when I opened it. I watched the tuner set the mechanical timing and he told me he set it to 10 degrees. So since I opened up the wizard and it said 14, does that mean the timing is actually retarded 4 degrees from what the MS and my tuner "thought" it was reading for total timing?

 

[hoopty5.0]

10° in the trigger wizard does not equal 10° timing. It's going to be some weird number that you're going to have to play with in order to get the timing light to read 10°. I think I had to put some number like 42 in my offset to get the timing light to read 10°

 

[hoopty5.0]

As far as setting the distributor at 10, there is a mark on the bottom of the dist. (if you are using a factory piece) and a mark on the block. Line those up and you can use the offset from there.

 

[dr hook]

Did anyone have any tips for my situation (from post 166/173)? Im still lost, but im still trying to educate myself on it as well. From my looking around, I think that this is what I have:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-engine-management-system-w-pcb3-assembled-unit/

 

[Farrell5.0]

10° in the trigger wizard does not equal 10° timing. It's going to be some weird number that you're going to have to play with in order to get the timing light to read 10°. I think I had to put some number like 42 in my offset to get the timing light to read 10°

Alright, I'll mess with it when I get home and report back. Think I'm confusing myself, not having the laptop in front of me. Thanks.

 

[hoopty5.0]

ok guys, I have some questions. I have ended up with a megasquirt system. Im not sure exactly what I have, or what I need. the setup was pulled from a running 2.3 turbo'd ranger... will this even work on my car (93 gt)? im trying to research, but the amount of info is so overwhelming that I get lost. im assuming I can get this: https://www.diyautotune.com/support...asquirt-your-mustang-5-0/5-0-mustang-adapter/ to actually plug it into the car. if so, what all else do I need? is it as simple as downloading the correct base tune? I apologize for my "noobness". Ive had several fox cars, but ive never ventured into the world of tuning before.

Did anyone have any tips for my situation (from post 166/173)? Im still lost, but im still trying to educate myself on it as well. From my looking around, I think that this is what I have:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-engine-management-system-w-pcb3-assembled-unit/

That's a tough one, dude. You're going to have to do a lot of research and figure out what all components are shared/different between the two applications and make the changes. It can certainly be done, and I'd email DIYautotune for help. They know the stuff inside and out.

 

[dr hook]

That's a tough one, dude. You're going to have to do a lot of research and figure out what all components are shared/different between the two applications and make the changes. It can certainly be done, and I'd email DIYautotune for help. They know the stuff inside and out.

Gotcha. I actually emailed them earlier today, and it made me think to bump the thread just to see if the gurus had any pointers. Thanks again to everyone who is contributing, the thread is very informative.

 

[a91what]

Alright, I'll mess with it when I get home and report back. Think I'm confusing myself, not having the laptop in front of me. Thanks.

Couple of things you should know the offset that needs to be between 0 and 20 otherwise tunerstudio will not adjust timing correctly I learn this one out the hard way when I first started setting up my system. It's mentioned somewhere in the documentation now to set your timing. Start by lining the notch in the distributor up with a notch in the block mechanical timing means almost nothing at this point unless you're offset is less than 0 or more than 20. Now set your timing to fixed instead of use table punch in 20 for the fix timing number. Now bring up the trigger wizard and start the car. the goal here is to use the trigger wizard offset (bottom box) to get the timing shown in the Wizard (the top box) to match the timing on the balancer once you get it to match up you're set never touch the distributor again. Every time you pull the distributor or move it you need to redo this timing setup.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Couple of things you should know the offset that needs to be between 0 and 20 otherwise tunerstudio will not adjust timing correctly I learn this one out the hard way when I first started setting up my system. It's mentioned somewhere in the documentation now to set your timing. Start by lining the notch in the distributor up with a notch in the block mechanical timing means almost nothing at this point unless you're offset is less than 0 or more than 20. Now set your timing to fixed instead of use table punch in 20 for the fix timing number. Now bring up the trigger wizard and start the car. the goal here is to use the trigger wizard offset (bottom box) to get the timing shown in the Wizard (the top box) to match the timing on the balancer once you get it to match up you're set never touch the distributor again. Every time you pull the distributor or move it you need to redo this timing setup.

Didn't know that. Learn something new every day.

 

[a91what]

View: https://youtu.be/1RlsrM0n7Gw


Setting timing and incorporate afr table information

 

[Farrell5.0]

Couple of things you should know the offset that needs to be between 0 and 20 otherwise tunerstudio will not adjust timing correctly I learn this one out the hard way when I first started setting up my system. It's mentioned somewhere in the documentation now to set your timing. Start by lining the notch in the distributor up with a notch in the block mechanical timing means almost nothing at this point unless you're offset is less than 0 or more than 20. Now set your timing to fixed instead of use table punch in 20 for the fix timing number. Now bring up the trigger wizard and start the car. the goal here is to use the trigger wizard offset (bottom box) to get the timing shown in the Wizard (the top box) to match the timing on the balancer once you get it to match up you're set never touch the distributor again. Every time you pull the distributor or move it you need to redo this timing setup.

Thanks for the clarification, I really appreciate it!