Stock 4.6 3v Block?

['10BeastToBe]

Hello everybody, new here, but I was looking to get some information. I'll keep it short and sweet.
1.) What is the HP(RW or Crank) limit of the stock 2010 4.6 3v block(just bare block)
2.)If the limit is over ~700-800 crank, would just replacing the entire rotating assembly with manley/other brand forged crank, rods, 14cc dished(~8.5:1) be wise?
3.) http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/99025246.htm Just wonering of any of you would reccomend a setup similar to this.
Thanks in advance, and Happy Easter to everyone here.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

The block used for FRPP Aluminators are slightly different then production so I would say 700 BHP on production block is pushing it. You may just want to look into an already done low compression Aluminator.

https://id144237.webhosting.optonli...r/product_info.php?cPath=13_16&products_id=68

 

['10BeastToBe]

Not a bad price I would say. This is all relative, I don't actually own the Roush...yet
I guess an extra 800 bucks for the proven(and loved) Aluminator block would be better than the 50/50 that the MMR900 has.
Thanks for the help.

 

['10BeastToBe]

I have actually been thinking, since our target RWHP is about 530-540 and about the same TQ numbers. Would that be pushing it for the stock block with the upgraded forged manley rotating assembly? Also, if anyone could give input on the best shortblock for the money that would be great.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

Yea, that is a bit pushing for stock block. Best value for dollar especially at your power levels is the Aluminator FRPP

 

['10BeastToBe]

Ok, yet another question from the noob, but I appreciate all of your feedback and patience. As you know, opportunities come and go. Well, there is a relatively local 2004 Mach 1 Longblock for sale with all but the intake manifold. It came out of a manual car, meaning there is an 8-bolt forged crank. Mach 1 used stock GT rods and pistons if I am not mistaken, so with a rod and piston swap, would the engine have a reasonable reliability for 530 RWHP with some room to upgrade? P.S.- I am reasonably sure that the 4.6 4v could fit in the s197 2010 body, as Ford stuffed the 5.0 4v into it. Thanks again everybody.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

You're still stock with a production block, it's the same block as your stock 3v, just because the internals are forged doesn't make the block itself stronger.

 

['10BeastToBe]

Oh, I thought that the Mach 1/ Cobra blocks were the same blocks with slightly different internals. I guess I could have been mistaken, but I have heard that they were very similar in durability.

 

['10BeastToBe]

Huh. With some more searching I found a 1999 Teksid cobra block with heads(4v), cams, and internals along with upgraded cobra brakes and calipers drilled and slotted(a long awaited upgrade for the stang anyways). I have heard that the Teksid is better than the Mach 1 in termas of durability. I would like some confirmation on this, if it is not too much to ask. Also would like to know if the 99 cobra brakes would work with the supposedly s197 ABS, as well as fitment. Note: Brakes will be behind Roush 20"s and cooper zeon RS3A's if that has any importance. I hope to return all of the help you have given me one day, when I become more experienced with this kind of stuff.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

Brakes wont fit. The Teksid block is a very strong block, but your HUH in the beginning of your previous post suggests your confused. So am I, when you said originally you were concerned about the block strength did you mean the actual block itself or were you taking about the whole short block with internals? Why are you trying to fit in 4V fixed cam engines in place of your 3v with VCT?

 

['10BeastToBe]

he "huh" was just a sigh that I found yet another possiblility, lol. As of right now, we are searching for durable, (relatively) cheap blocks. I know teksid only made 4v engines, and almost all Ford Cobra Teksids came with 8-bolt forged cranks. We are talking about the bare block itself, and the crank is just a considered extra that would be great if it came with the shortblock. Rods and pistons will be swapped with Manleys. Many people that we have talked to say that the 4v head design is much better than the 3v, even with VCT, more flow than 3v, and more room to port/upgrade. We don't see no VCT as a deal-breaker for the 4v. This would be no "Monster" with 800+ HP, but would need to be very competitive, able to drive for some form of long drive, and maybe a daily driver for a few weeks at a time.

 

['10BeastToBe]

Also, it is a more aestheticly pleasing engine with its awesome, beautiful valve covers. Just one thing that is under consideration

 

['10BeastToBe]

Actually, after a couple hours of serious consideration, I think the best way to go is to stick with the 3v, and go with either the MMR 1000 or the Aluminator. I guess an extra 700 for the Aluminator is quite a difference, but more people tend to lean in that direction. Sorry for any confusion I've caused, I was blinded by my excitement. Thanks for your help, hope to talk again sometime Mr. Spartan.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

Aluminator would be my recommendation too. Feel free to drop a PM if you need anything, I log in 2- 3 times daily.