Stock Tach Issue

pats91

15 Year Member
Mar 6, 2007
118
73
48
Gladstone, MO
I am having issues with the stock tach in my LX. When revved under load, the tach needle stops at 3500, and just wavers +/-100 rpm at that spot when the engine is above that rpm. The car does not miss or show any other symptoms above 3500 rpm. I have run it up to an indicated 5500 rpm on a dwell/tach meter. Also if free revved in neutral, the tach will only make it to about 3000 rpm and bounce back toward zero, like the polarity was reversed. Rpm on the dwell/tach shows a steady climb past 3000 up to 5500 rpm.

The only changes made to the car recently were the addition of a contour fan and FAL 33054 controller. Power and ground for the controller are connected directly from the battery. I also cleaned the ground behind the battery, and cleaned the 10 pin connectors. All the other gauges are working correctly (actually working better than before after I cleaned the 10 pins). I also changed the coil and TFI module to known good parts, with no change. Other than the tach problem, the car is running strong.

The tach only started behaving this way since installed the electric fan.

Here is a youtube video of the tach's behavior, revving the car in neutral:


View: https://youtu.be/AGArKXDQee0


Does any one have any ideas?
 
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Start by looking for ground problems. The increased current draw from the electric fan may have caused some previously unnoticed ground problems to surface.

Grounds

Revised 28-Oct-2012 to add signal ground description & possible problems if it is bad

Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computer controlled engines. In an automobile, the ground is the return path for power to get back to the alternator and battery.

Make sure that all the ground places are clean and shiny bare metal: no paint, no corrosion.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.


2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. The clue to a bad ground here is that the temp gauge goes up as you add electrical load such as heater, lights and A/C.

Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

The picture shows the common ground point for the battery , computer, & extra 3G alternator ground wire as described above in paragraph 2. A screwdriver points to the bolt that is the common ground point.

The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground attached to it.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
ground.jpg


Correct negative battery ground cable.
86-93-mustang-oem-style-ground-cable-gif.56567



3.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally: it comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to its proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.
In 86-90 model cars, it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.
In 91-95 model cars it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/white wire.
You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness.

All the grounds listed in items 1,2 & 3 need to bolt to clean, shiny bare metal. A wire brush or some fine sandpaper is the best thing to use to clean the ground connections.


4.) All the sensors have a common separate signal ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGR, BAP, & VSS sensors. This ground is inside the computer and connects pin 46 to pins 40 & 60, which are the main computer grounds. If this internal computer ground gets damaged, you won't be able to dump codes and the car will have idle/stall/ performance problems

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on back of the cylinder head.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module ground terminates inside the computer.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.


See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. Be sure to have the maximum load on a circuit when testing voltage drops across connections. As current across a defective or weak connection, increases so does the voltage drop. A circuit or connection may check out good with no load or minimal load, but show up bad under maximum load conditions. .

Voltage drops should not exceed the following:
200 mV Wire or cable
300 mV Switch
100 mV Ground
0 mV to <50 mV Sensor Connections
0.0V bolt together connections

attachment.php


Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver. If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.

The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.
 

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I'll check into the youtube video...
edit:should work now. sorry about that.


Would ground #2 be the same as the ground strap from the back of the drivers cylinder head to the firewall? I previously installed a ground from the back of each head to the firewall, but I will have to check all of the grounds you list before moving much farther.

I I will add a 4 ga Ground from the cylinder head to the EEC ground behind the battery. I already cleaned that one, I will go after the rest.
 
Last edited:
I'll check into the youtube video...
edit:should work now. sorry about that.


Would ground #2 be the same as the ground strap from the back of the drivers cylinder head to the firewall? I previously installed a ground from the back of each head to the firewall, but I will have to check all of the grounds you list before moving much farther.

I I will add a 4 ga Ground from the cylinder head to the EEC ground behind the battery. I already cleaned that one, I will go after the rest.
"Would ground #2 be the same as the ground strap from the back of the drivers cylinder head to the firewall?"
Yes.

One of the symptoms of a poor engine to body ground is that as you add electrical load, the stock temp indicator rises. Start the car, warm it up to normal operating temp. Add electrical load like headlights, heater blower on high and watch to see if the stock temp gauge shows an increase.
 
I checked and cleaned the grounds in the engine compartment, and added a 4 gauge ground from the drivers side cylinder head to ground on behind the battery. Car runs excellent, and and the temp gauge does not budge even with every possible load applied. While the tach will now go over 3500 under load, its movement is still very erratic above that. The tach still exhibits the same behavior shown in the video when revved in neutral. I am going to take the cluster out this weekend to check connections and take a look at the inside of the tach itself.

Thanks for all of your help.
 
Well, the tach works pretty will out of the cluster. I did two tests:
  1. 12v and ground hooked directly to the battery, signal hooked directly to the negative side of the coil - tach works just fine, sweeps smooth when revved in neutral.
  2. 12v, ground, and signal hooked to the left side instrument panel pins for power, ground and signal - tach works great, with a smooth sweep when revved in neutral.
Both times i was able to rev the car to an indicated 5000 rpm with no wavering or bouncing of the needle. I also tested the tach with my dwell/tach with the same result. I am going to check the printed circuit on the back of the cluster, and clean all of the contacts, put it back together and see what happens.