Supercharging My 03gt!!

[Three50won]

Hey guys! I decided to go with a Vortech supercharger on my 03 GT! It should be here probably sometime next week. Gonna self-install it. I've done it before, I can probably have the kit on in 2 hours. Gonna run a return oil line to the top of the oil cap. I'm not really a fan of drilling and tapping the oil pan. Plus I'd rather the oil return line go nowhere near the belt if at all possible.

So I'm going to run like 8psi for now. Maybe I'll bump it up next year. I'm going super conservative because this car has seen too many blown engines in it's time. Like 4 or 5. I don't care if it has max potential, I just want it faster than it is as a DD but reliable and safe. Also, the GT has full bolt-ons but no headers. Gonna stick with the stock manifolds.

So I'd like some recommendations. What size injectors would you all recommend? I'm thinking I'll go with the standard 42s that most of us get. That way I'll have room to play in the future. The MAF is a SCT brand and is calibrated for 40s. Stick with 40s or go to 42s? What numbers do you think I'll be putting out? I'm thinking that at 8psi I'll have around 350 to the wheels...BTW, no aftercooler for now, lol!! Gonna self-tune with Sniper and write myself a very safe tune. Maybe I'll go more aggressive in the future after it's been on the road for a while. Any advice or recommendations?!

 

[flstang65]

if you are using sniper, get the sniper MAF, cop, 42's and a good fuel pump and you should be safe and still have the poer you want. Plus, the sniper software is pre programmed for all of that stuff anyways.

 

[Mattstang04]

It's going to be awesome. These cars were made for boost. I don't even remember what my car was like without boost. Don't want to either. Nothing better... when its working properly, that is. Good luck with it.

 

[TeamCaffeineGT]

Didn't know that you could run the return line above the power adder! Everything that I have read indicates that the oil return is dependent on gravity to circulate the oil. Perhaps the oil pump has enough pressure to move oil through the unit, but I would think that this would cause a higher level of oil in the supercharger case, decreasing efficiency and causing cavitation as well.

Vortech's Q&A Section indicates similarly:

Can I use the existing drain on the oil pan to return the oil from the Vortech supercharger?
No. It is imperative that the oil return be higher than the level of the oil in all instances. The oil must be drained gradually downward with no dips, allowing the oil to enter the oil pan above the oil level. Drain restrictions, kinks or returning the oil below the oil level may cause a severe windage problem that consumes significant power and generates heat, supercharger seal failures may also result.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=33508

Not trying to negate what you have planned, but it would be terrible to install the kit and see a failure prematurely due to saving time and stress!

 

[Three50won]

if you are using sniper, get the sniper MAF, cop, 42's and a good fuel pump and you should be safe and still have the poer you want. Plus, the sniper software is pre programmed for all of that stuff anyways.

I usually like to run all matched parts but I don't have a problem using mis-matched parts. The MAF that comes with the unit is a SCT joint calibrated for 40s. So I might just go ahead and use it if I can't find a matched 42 MAF with a 95mm draw thru opening and some 42psi injectors. I'm good on the fuel pump. I already have the Granatelli 340LPH pump installed.

It's going to be awesome. These cars were made for boost. I don't even remember what my car was like without boost. Don't want to either. Nothing better... when its working properly, that is. Good luck with it.

You got that right. Soo hard to get power out of these engines NA. Mine is an auto with a convertible to make matters worse. Even with all bolt-ons I don't think it'll break into the 13s. We need boost. Especially to keep up with the newer cars.

Didn't know that you could run the return line above the power adder! Everything that I have read indicates that the oil return is dependent on gravity to circulate the oil. Perhaps the oil pump has enough pressure to move oil through the unit, but I would think that this would cause a higher level of oil in the supercharger case, decreasing efficiency and causing cavitation as well.

Vortech's Q&A Section indicates similarly:

Can I use the existing drain on the oil pan to return the oil from the Vortech supercharger?
No. It is imperative that the oil return be higher than the level of the oil in all instances. The oil must be drained gradually downward with no dips, allowing the oil to enter the oil pan above the oil level. Drain restrictions, kinks or returning the oil below the oil level may cause a severe windage problem that consumes significant power and generates heat, supercharger seal failures may also result.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=33508

Not trying to negate what you have planned, but it would be terrible to install the kit and see a failure prematurely due to saving time and stress!

Thanks for the advice. I had seen one guy do it once some time ago. And I saw pics of it. But maybe it isn't a good idea. I probably should just do it the right way.

 

[Deleted member 38176]

What is this "boost" you speak of?

Congrats

 

[Three50won]

So I got everything ready to begin my install (or so I thought I did). I drilled a hole in the oil pan. Instead of threading it I decided to just drill it as large as possible and insert a 5/8ths grommet into the hole. Believe it or not, the grommet holds the oil drain tube really well. It wiggles but you'd have to pull it pretty vigorously to remove it. Based on the amount of strength I would have to use to pull it out, I would say there is no way it'll come out while driving especially once it is connected to the head unit...the head unit should secure it in place. But I digress. So I got the return line set, I got the feed line set, spark plugs gapped, injectors in, all good to go, except...I don't have the ribbed and smooth idler pulleys supplied by Vortech. So now, once again, I have to let my car sit until I can order the parts from Vortech...Of course I didn't figure all this out until Friday night even tho the stuff has been sitting in my living room all week. Could have had everything by now...(sigh)...

 

[flstang65]

Let me know how that return lines works after a few miles of spirited driving. Sounds interesting.

 

[Three50won]

Let me know how that return lines works after a few miles of spirited driving. Sounds interesting.

Well I got the 2 Vortech pulleys, got everything installed, started it up, and it had a misfire. A fuel injector isn't functioning properly. So I took out the 40#ers and replaced them with 42s along with the stock MAF meter and re-tuned it. Now it is running properly. I may have to replace the belt. I was a little worried about the oil drain with the grommet but so far it is holding up pretty well. I've driven it around town a few times and it hasn't budged at all. I'll just have to keep an eye on it for a little while longer to make sure but I think it is fine. In the AM I have to replace a sleeve because I may be loosing some boost through it. After today it'll be running perfect!!

 

[squeak93]

I would be more concerned with Oil blowing out when the crank case is pressurized under boost. I would guess that you start to see oil residue on the under carriage and no "obvious" signs of leaks/drips.

Good luck. I did the "tap" method and it leaked. I ended up using some quick steel to wrap around the fitting so it wouldn't leak anymore. Work like charm. (jb weld did not as it was runny and didn't not hold).

 

[Three50won]

Hmm, good points. I will try to keep an eye out for that. I did drive it several times at WOT and at full boost and so far have had no issues. The drain is not pressurized at all. It simply drains. But you can never be too safe. I'll keep checking on it. As it is I check it every couple times after I drive and I constantly monitor the oil pressure gauge. So far so good.

 

[TeamCaffeineGT]

I would be more concerned with Oil blowing out when the crank case is pressurized under boost. I would guess that you start to see oil residue on the under carriage and no "obvious" signs of leaks/drips.

Good luck. I did the "tap" method and it leaked. I ended up using some quick steel to wrap around the fitting so it wouldn't leak anymore. Work like charm. (jb weld did not as it was runny and didn't not hold).

If there is pressure in the oil pan, you would be getting blow by from the pistons and would need a rebuild wouldn't you? Minimal pressure should be present if the PCV and crank case ventilation system is operating properly. There is a PCV valve on the passenger side, as well as a direct vacuum line running from the plenum to the driver's side valve cover.

 

[Three50won]

Mine are vented. I ran small filters and vented them bypassing the plenum.

 

[squeak93]

Are you venting metered air? I say that as the 4.6 pcv system is designed to be sealed (the air in the system is ALL metered). I may not be understanding what you mean by "vented".

And the crank case will be pressurized to an extent. No way the pcv holds back all the boost. Its very important to have an oil catch can to keep oil vapors out of the intake. Also, you will find if you use vents on the cam covers that they blow oil out frequently (Further proof there is pressure in the crank case).

I'm by no means an expert here, just relaying what I've seen in real world blown mod motors.



Edit b/c I can't type....

 

[Mattstang04]

I have had the problem with blowby in the intake tract. After the intake tubes and intercooler were cleaned out, my tuner routed both the PCV side and driver side valve cover vents into a T fitting which was then routed through my Moroso oil separator. The other side of the separator is then run to the intake tube in front of the blower. I also have a JLT PCV pre-filter on the driver's side vent tube. It has helped keep oil out of the intake tract. So far anyway.

 

[Three50won]

Are you venting metered air? I say that as the 4.6 pcv system is designed to be sealed (the air in the system is ALL metered). I may not be understanding what you mean by "vented".

And the crank case will be pressurized to an extent. No way the pcv holds back all the boost. Its very important to have an oil catch can to keep oil vapors out of the intake. Also, you will find if you use vents on the cam covers that they blow oil out frequently (Further proof there is pressure in the crank case).

I'm by no means an expert here, just relaying what I've seen in real world blown mod motors.



Edit b/c I can't type....

My valve covers are vented. I vented them back when I first installed my cai as the first mod 9 years ago. They have always been vented and I've never had any problems. No CELs, nothing. When I said "mine are vented" I said that in thinking that you were talking about the valve covers. If I was mistaken then I apologize. But yea, my valve covers have filtered vents on them. And I don't believe in oil catch cans. Never used them and don't intend to. Even my 2010 SS. People swear by them. I feel they are a useless mod. And thanks for your suggestions BTW. Trust me, I enjoy all feedback, it is appreciated. Expert advice or non-expert advice, I like to hear it all!!

 

[squeak93]

I didn't believe in them until had one on my 96 cobra with an aviator swap (c heads). I had a buddy finally talk me into buying one of the pricey little buggers. I was amazed at how much oil it caught. I've since used them on a 2012 GT (caught TONS of oil with this one) and my 03 Mach also has one. I even went with a pre filter on the mach because the intake track was very oily. It been dry as a bone since the catch can and pre filter. They are expensive and over priced in my opinion but they do work.

 

[Three50won]

I didn't believe in them until had one on my 96 cobra with an aviator swap (c heads). I had a buddy finally talk me into buying one of the pricey little buggers. I was amazed at how much oil it caught. I've since used them on a 2012 GT (caught TONS of oil with this one) and my 03 Mach also has one. I even went with a pre filter on the mach because the intake track was very oily. It been dry as a bone since the catch can and pre filter. They are expensive and over priced in my opinion but they do work.

Oh I agree they do work as intended. I'm just saying that I don't think having them will improve anything or that not having them won't damage anything. All the Mustangs out there, some of them with well over 150K miles on them, some of them on the road for 20+ years, and they don't have catch cans. All the cars of every make and model that don't have catch cans but have been on the road for decades and over 100K miles without them either. Catch cans became popular it seems in these past 2 or 3 years. And once they got popular the prices for them started going up. And now companies are telling people out there that our cars "need" them. To each their own but I won't be getting one ever unless it comes on the car.

 

[squeak93]

I firmly believe that the avg grocery getter car doesn't need one. However, I drive my car like I stole it and prefer to keep the vapors out of the combustion chamber. They can cause detonation (esp in blown applications). If you drive your car hard, let it rev out or use the gearing to slow down (down shift frequently when stopping) you increase the amount of oil in the intake.

 

[Three50won]

Hey not to change the subject but I gotta get some advice on spark plugs. What do you recommend? I'm thinking about going with the NGK TR6 (I think they are now called NGK V). They're one heat range colder and from what I've seen most supercharged GTs and Cobras are running them. What is your take? Any other plug that would work as good or better?