Suspension Upgrade Opinions??

[Audiophile]

Now that I have my clutch issue resolved, I'll be looking to do some work to the suspension in the upcoming weeks.

For those of you in the know and that have experience, what specifically do you like and/or recommend? (parts, brands, etc.)

I can tell you I'm almost sure that what's on my car is the original, stock stuff. I'm also certain it's shot. I know these cars ride rough and I'm by no means looking for a Cadillac ride, but mine seems to be to the extreme.

I don't drag or road race. This is just a daily driver for me, but I do like to have fun in it. I would like to have the best handling possible, without getting crazy and dropping $5K or anything like that. Handling and performance would be my first priority, with ride quality bringing up the rear.

Thanks in advance for the comments and suggestions!

 

[84Ttop]

Personally I have turned to UPR for all of my suspension needs. They make quality parts in the USA, are reasonably priced and their parts down right work.

Are you looking into changing the front, rear or both suspension wise? What kind of a budget are you working on?

I would look at changing the upper and lower rear control arms first. For your street application I would stick with polyurethane bushings on all ends.

 

[Audiophile]

I'm figuring on doing both front and rear. I'm considering bringing it down a touch, but not a whole lot. Just an amount that will improve the handling, and maybe the looks a little.

As for budget, I would like to stay around the $1K mark, if that's possible. If I need to go more to get quality stuff, then I certainly will. I would say I'm flexible, within reason. From the little searching I've done, it would seem that you could get some nice parts for around that. I'll just have to inquire around as to what labor will run. Of course, if I'm way off base with that figure, please let me know.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

From my understanding, you can just cut the stock spring an inch, install new isolator bushings under them and be fine without sacrificing rough riding with other springs. Not sure of drop limit before bump steer parts enter in. Get blue tokico shocks struts, good middle ground riding quality. I already have blue struts, made a huge difference in my shot front struts, I'm getting rear tokico blues at some point. Believe I hear MM and Energy Suspension brands, parts, bushings said a lot on this topic as well.

 

[89oem]

i have eibach pro springs. drop is just right imo. i also run kyb gas adjust shocks. the kyb give it a pretty stiff ride but i like it, handles well and is really tight.

front well lip 24 3/4
rear well lip 26

please excuse cr*ppy cell phone pic

 

[Noobz347]

Now that I have my clutch issue resolved, I'll be looking to do some work to the suspension in the upcoming weeks.

For those of you in the know and that have experience, what specifically do you like and/or recommend? (parts, brands, etc.)

I can tell you I'm almost sure that what's on my car is the original, stock stuff. I'm also certain it's shot. I know these cars ride rough and I'm by no means looking for a Cadillac ride, but mine seems to be to the extreme.

I don't drag or road race. This is just a daily driver for me, but I do like to have fun in it. I would like to have the best handling possible, without getting crazy and dropping $5K or anything like that. Handling and performance would be my first priority, with ride quality bringing up the rear.

Thanks in advance for the comments and suggestions!

This is a GREAT question. I will warn you ahead of time though, that there are a LOT of different opinions on this subject. Many will not agree with one path or the other.

The portion that I want everyone to keep in perspective is that these arguments are had by some pretty experienced people. So no matter how the thread turns, it's the result of experience going all the way back to the first Fox and even before. LOL

I know there's a combined total of more than just 50 years.

 

[89oem]

what is this strong opinion on stangnet you speak of

 

[Noobz347]

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

You'll have to factor in caster/camber plates with pretty much anyway you go if you don't already have them. I'm in the same boat with you regarding this topic. Learned a little bit but not near as much as the many others on here.

 

[mikestang63]

First thing to do is stiffen up the suspension with subframe connectors. Regarding shocks, springs,and suspension, everyone has their favorites and it comes down to how much you want to spend and how harsh a ride you want.

I don't hide the fact I am a fan of Maximum Motorsports suspension parts. I have used their subframe connectors, control arms, caster camber plates, strut kits, brake kits, and other suspension parts. IMO you cannot find better quality and more knowledgeable people. They don't make cheap copies of other vendors parts.

I would not recommend you lower your car over 1-1.5 inches as that plays havoc on your steering/suspension geometry. For my current Mustang, I went with

Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arms and new bolts
Stock Ford rear upper control arms with Cobra rubber bushings
Max Motorsports full length subframe connectors
Max Motorsports Strut Tower brace
Max Motorsports Caster Camber plates
Max Motorsports brake kit upgrade- SS brake lines, SS caliper pins, Hawk pads and shoes
Steeda Sport Springs
Tokico "blue"shocks and struts
Prothane Poly shock isolators and sway bar link kit

You will want to check your torque boxes and repair any tears before doing anything else. Like I said, everyone has their own opinions based on their likes/dislikes. I listed what works for me. Hope it helped

 

[Audiophile]

Thanks for all the responses so far! I'm certainly taking it all in.

Yes, the subframe connectors are the very next thing on my list. I've already been asking around for someone that can weld them on as well as has a drive on lift.

I ordered the MM clutch cable and quadrant kit last week. I emailed them a question and they responded within 2 hours. When I received the parts, the quality seemed very nice. So far, I'm impressed with them.

And yes, 1 or 1.5 inches is tops for me. I love the lower stance but don't want to sacrifice drivability or cause myself other issues in the process.

 

[90lxwhite]

If you're not into name brand clothing sve standard length sub connectors, koni str t shocks n struts, and ford racing b springs (progressive) will work for you.

 

[89oem]

hey Mike @mikestang63 nice setup, how do like the ride of the tokico shocks?
i know allot of folks think kyb are harsh...

on your MM brake i assume its 4 lug upgrade kit... would you do it again or jump to a cobra 5 lug setup... im really torn since i really like my old 4 lug 10 hole or even 4 lug 93 cobras....

 

[mikestang63]

hey Mike @mikestang63 nice setup, how do like the ride of the tokico shocks?
i know allot of folks think kyb are harsh...

on your MM brake i assume its 4 lug upgrade kit... would you do it again or jump to a cobra 5 lug setup... im really torn since i really like my old 4 lug 10 hole or even 4 lug 93 cobras....

Again, since I bought them for a few cars I'm partial, but for the money you'd be hard pressed to find a better all around shock that gives decent performance at a reasonable price. They are not harsh at all. Do a google search on them and you'll probably find some reviews.

I want to keep my 4 lug Cobra wheels and I've used that MM brake kit on a few cars and it makes a noticeable difference. For $250 it's cheaper than a 5 lug brake swap and 80% of the braking is done by the front brakes. Get a good set of blank rotors and you're good to go.

 

[89oem]

i think eibach pro and ford b are the same progressive spring....

thanks Mike i think ill get the kit and decide about 5 lug way down the road....

about finished collection of hci stuff so will need to be able to stop....

 

[90lxwhite]

Eibach sportline came on the 90 I had. They were too low n harsh

 

[Audiophile]

What level of expertise, tool requirements, time, etc. does it take to work on most of these suspension parts yourself?

I'm not opposed to mechanical work. I'm by no means an expert but am mechanically inclined and certainly always willing to try and learn new things. However, I don't have a garage, don't own any "specialty tools", and this is my daily driver. If I was to tackle any of it, it would have to be over a weekend.

I've rebuilt carburetors, done drum and disc brakes, replaced plugs, etc. But, I'm guessing this is somewhat of a different animal.

 

[84Ttop]

Basic hand tools should cover the majority of what you need other than a jack and jack stands. There is more than one way to change springs. I can swap all 4 in about 45 minutes if I hustle. I would plan on 2-3 hours if its your first time. Other than the springs most other parts are simple unbolt and replace. If you don't have access to a welder you will need to find a shop to install the subframe connectors but that's about it.

 

[mikestang63]

What level of expertise, tool requirements, time, etc. does it take to work on most of these suspension parts yourself?

I'm not opposed to mechanical work. I'm by no means an expert but am mechanically inclined and certainly always willing to try and learn new things. However, I don't have a garage, don't own any "specialty tools", and this is my daily driver. If I was to tackle any of it, it would have to be over a weekend.

I've rebuilt carburetors, done drum and disc brakes, replaced plugs, etc. But, I'm guessing this is somewhat of a different animal.

There are going to be a few things you will need to be on the lookout for
Spray down all the bolts with PB blaster for a few days each day before you do the job.- control arm, shock, strut bolts. Do one side at a time. You will need 4 jackstands and I'd recommend two jacks. A set of ratchet straps come in handy for the rear

Front- if this is your first time- rent a spring compresor. Yes you can and we all do it without one, but for the first time I would stress safety first. The strut nut needs to come off with an air gun or you'll need a big breaker bar. But the MM spring holder tool for $25- you wil thank me later.

Rear- 1. the two biggest pita are the lower control arm bolts that tend to sieze up and sometimes need heat or cut out, and getting at the forward lower control arms if your mufflers are in the way
2. the rear upper control arm bushings that are in the housing- again buy the MM bushing removal tool for $30 and thank me later

There are several how to write ups on Stangnet and other sites plus a bunch of videos on google. Take your time and if it takes you a weekend so be it . The front springs can be a PITA if you are installing stiffer springs.

For the subframe connectors I am going to tell you to bring it to someone who has done them more than a few times. It is more than just slapping them on and welding them in place. The car nees to be at ride height fully loaded or you will end up permanently with a tweaked car. Get the full length MM ones as they are the thickest, strongest ones on the market and fit like a glove. If you get the bare ones, paint over the, and the areas where they prepped the underside with a good rust preventive paint.

 

[89oem]

see what kinda deal you can get with suspension and subframes done at same time, then decide if its something you want to tackle. youll need an alignment as well as you know.....

my old springs / shocks were really tired and it was well worth the upgrade...