suspension
- Thread starter KyleR
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Skymarshal
Member
Once you have the front of the car on jackstands, you can use the floor jack to compress the strut so you can unbolt it.
You don't need a spring compressor unless your new springs are the same ride height. If you're putting in lowering springs, the shorter height will make them easy to put in.
To remove the old springs:
-Place your floor jack under the end of the lower control arm, and compress the suspension just a little (not enough to lift the car off the jackstands).
-Unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way, and unbolt the strut at the top of the shock tower (before you unbolt the strut, mark the position of its mounting plate on the top of the shock tower. This is critical for your alignment). There is also a brake line that will need to be unbolted from the strut. If you're replacing the struts too, loosen the lower bolts before you jack the car up, and take the whole thing out now.
-If you compress the strut a little by hand, you can move the top of it out of the wheelhouse (keep the bottom bolted on), and you'll be able to drop the lower control arm enough to get the springs out. You don't even need to disconnect the tie rod. The springs will be under very little compression- you only need a small pry bar to lift them over the edge of the spring seat on the control arm.
Reinstallation is the reverse of this. Torque everything to book values (if you can't find a torque for a given bolt, use German torque
).
-Get a front-end alignment. Your steering geometry will have changed if your springs are a different height. If you installed springs that are less than a 1" drop, the shop will be able to get you back within spec. For a larger drop, you'll also need to install caster/camber plates, to give you the extra range of adjustment you'll need to get the car back in alignment.
Have fun!
You don't need a spring compressor unless your new springs are the same ride height. If you're putting in lowering springs, the shorter height will make them easy to put in.
To remove the old springs:
-Place your floor jack under the end of the lower control arm, and compress the suspension just a little (not enough to lift the car off the jackstands).
-Unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way, and unbolt the strut at the top of the shock tower (before you unbolt the strut, mark the position of its mounting plate on the top of the shock tower. This is critical for your alignment). There is also a brake line that will need to be unbolted from the strut. If you're replacing the struts too, loosen the lower bolts before you jack the car up, and take the whole thing out now.
-If you compress the strut a little by hand, you can move the top of it out of the wheelhouse (keep the bottom bolted on), and you'll be able to drop the lower control arm enough to get the springs out. You don't even need to disconnect the tie rod. The springs will be under very little compression- you only need a small pry bar to lift them over the edge of the spring seat on the control arm.
Reinstallation is the reverse of this. Torque everything to book values (if you can't find a torque for a given bolt, use German torque
). -Get a front-end alignment. Your steering geometry will have changed if your springs are a different height. If you installed springs that are less than a 1" drop, the shop will be able to get you back within spec. For a larger drop, you'll also need to install caster/camber plates, to give you the extra range of adjustment you'll need to get the car back in alignment.
Have fun!
Skymarshal
Member
You should be OK. I think my springs advertised 1" to 1.3", and the alignment shop was able to get everything back where it was.
The spring companies are vague about the amount of drop on purpose, since the springs vary a little individually, and your actual curb weight will also affect the final drop.
The spring companies are vague about the amount of drop on purpose, since the springs vary a little individually, and your actual curb weight will also affect the final drop.
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