So I was going to check/replace fluid in the T-5 since I had the car up and I am not sure what the PO did and it whines pretty good. More than likely needs to be rebuilt but want to make sure it has fluid in it. HOWEVER, I can't get the damn fill plug out. I have a pretty long torque wrench and can't get the top fill plug to budge. I don't want to break/strip anything. I figure if I start with the fill plug and give up nothing lost. So do these things seize up or what? And what are the risks of more torque on it?
T-5 Drain Plugs Stuck??
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Soak it in PB blaster. The plug is steel and the housing is aluminum.
However, if you are afraid to really get into it with the breaker bar, fill the t5 through the shifter handle. It will be slower, and you have no idea how full the trans is.
Completely drained, it will take 2.8 quarts to fill it.
Since you have another way to fill, id just lay into the breaker bar and see what happens
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However, if you are afraid to really get into it with the breaker bar, fill the t5 through the shifter handle. It will be slower, and you have no idea how full the trans is.
Completely drained, it will take 2.8 quarts to fill it.
Since you have another way to fill, id just lay into the breaker bar and see what happens
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Are you sure you're wrenching on the correct "plugs"? If you can put a socket or wrench over it, it's not a drain or fill plug, and if you remove it, you'll need to take the trans apart to make things right again. If it's on the passenger side of the trans and you can put square a 3/8 drive socket head into it, it's a drain or fill plug.
As MFE92 has already said, the fill and drain plugs are on the passenger side of the transmission. That being said, the drain plugs may also have a 9/16" square head on them instead of a 3/8" square hole.
T5, all versions used in 5.0 Mustangs
Note the drain plugs have a 3/8" square drive hole in them.
Tremec 3550/TKO /TKO500/TKO600 AFTERMARKET replacement for T5 - handles racing environments with ease
Note that the drain plugs have a 9/16" square head on them. It also uses a different lubricant from the T5. GM Synchromesh Black is the recommended lubricant.
See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/tremec.asp for more information - check out the "Light Duty" group, since TTC makes monster transmissions for big trucks as well as passenger cars.
See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/product.asp to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/
T5, all versions used in 5.0 Mustangs
Note the drain plugs have a 3/8" square drive hole in them.
Tremec 3550/TKO /TKO500/TKO600 AFTERMARKET replacement for T5 - handles racing environments with ease
Note that the drain plugs have a 9/16" square head on them. It also uses a different lubricant from the T5. GM Synchromesh Black is the recommended lubricant.
See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/tremec.asp for more information - check out the "Light Duty" group, since TTC makes monster transmissions for big trucks as well as passenger cars.
See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/product.asp to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/
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Whatever you do, don't remove the bolt on the drivers side
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Yeah I know the plugs not bolts. 3/8 socket goes in them to take them off, similar to rear diff fill plug. I did everything I was willing to do today to get it broke loose. I will wait until the weather cools and I don't plan to drive it daily before I tackle this. I put the 3/8 socket into it and at 1/2 inch with adapter with an additional leverage pipe and could not get it loose.
It is time for "Plan B"
Buy some "Canned Air" from a computer or office supply store. Note that what you turn the can upside down and spray it, cold liquid comes out. Be careful, because the cold liquid will freeze skin or anything else it comes in contact with.
Drive the car until it gets up to operating temperature; that heat will make the transmission case expand ever so slightly. Aluminum expands at a higher rate that steel and we are going to make that work to our advantage...
Put the car up on jackstands so that you can get to the drain plugs with ease. Turn the "Canned Air" upside down and spray the 3/8" square hole for about 15 seconds, maybe a little more. The steel plug will get cold and contract. DO NOT spray the aluminum around the steel plug. Take your socket extension bar and ratchet and loosen the plug; it should come out without excessive effort.
Buy some "Canned Air" from a computer or office supply store. Note that what you turn the can upside down and spray it, cold liquid comes out. Be careful, because the cold liquid will freeze skin or anything else it comes in contact with.
Drive the car until it gets up to operating temperature; that heat will make the transmission case expand ever so slightly. Aluminum expands at a higher rate that steel and we are going to make that work to our advantage...
Put the car up on jackstands so that you can get to the drain plugs with ease. Turn the "Canned Air" upside down and spray the 3/8" square hole for about 15 seconds, maybe a little more. The steel plug will get cold and contract. DO NOT spray the aluminum around the steel plug. Take your socket extension bar and ratchet and loosen the plug; it should come out without excessive effort.
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So I finally got around to this today and no luck. I heated it up and sprayed the compressed air upside down and coated it with ice. Still no budge. Is this normal and how in the hell do these get this tight. I put over 150 ft. lbs on it before it almost stripped out the 3/8 socket insert.
It is whining pretty bad 1st through 3rd so I know it is on the way out. However, if I can get it to last into the winter I can smooth the cost over with the wife. I have no idea if it is low on fluid or not due to recently purchasing it.
Things like this frustrate the hell out of me because any engineer should have the common sense that service points should be designed to not seize or ever be this difficult to get out. I think it would even be better if they are convex plugs versus the 3/8 socket convex plugs.
Sorry to vent but its the simple things that cause us the problems.
It is whining pretty bad 1st through 3rd so I know it is on the way out. However, if I can get it to last into the winter I can smooth the cost over with the wife. I have no idea if it is low on fluid or not due to recently purchasing it.
Things like this frustrate the hell out of me because any engineer should have the common sense that service points should be designed to not seize or ever be this difficult to get out. I think it would even be better if they are convex plugs versus the 3/8 socket convex plugs.
Sorry to vent but its the simple things that cause us the problems.
Is it the drain plug stuck, or both drain and fill?
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Instead of using pure muscle, try using the impact method.
I don't mean use a impact gun, but rather put in your 3/8" breaker bar, and then hit the end with quick sharp blows and see if that breaks it loose. I use this method pretty much on all bolts and it always works. I haven't dragged my impact wrench out in years.
I don't mean use a impact gun, but rather put in your 3/8" breaker bar, and then hit the end with quick sharp blows and see if that breaks it loose. I use this method pretty much on all bolts and it always works. I haven't dragged my impact wrench out in years.
Yeah I think I need the car higher to get the leverage and the ability to hold the socket square in the hole. I am taking a break the next few days from working on the car and work in general for the holiday weekend. I will update this thread on how the result pans out.
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In the meantime hit them with PB blaster for a few days
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Well got the drain plug out and gave up on the fill plug and just filled through top. A lot of heat and freezing and impact set on low for some vibration got it to a point where I could break it loose with my torque wrench. Damn thing is whining so bad 1st-3rd under load even with new fluid. I suspect I will need to rebuild over the winter. Just need to figure out if it is gears or just bearing whine so I can determine what the cost looks like in parts.
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Whining 1st to 3rd is usually a scored mainshaft snout where it fits into the input shaft.
Cause of this is usually fluid starvation (low fluid) or incorrect fluid, since thin ATF is needed to get into the area where the roller bearings ride on the snout of the mainshaft.
If the transmission is shifting fine, you can get away with a basic rebuild, but you'll need to track down a new T5 mainshaft and those can get pricey.
Cause of this is usually fluid starvation (low fluid) or incorrect fluid, since thin ATF is needed to get into the area where the roller bearings ride on the snout of the mainshaft.
If the transmission is shifting fine, you can get away with a basic rebuild, but you'll need to track down a new T5 mainshaft and those can get pricey.
- Mar 2, 2015
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The gearbox.org has lots if trans parts. I deal with Hanlon Motorsports....look them up an give them a call. Nice people at Hanlon. They're located in PA but ship parts....and do performance rebuilds.
@Mustang5L5 thanks for that info. I have watched video after video and read so much about the T-5 I still could not extract a definitive answer on any of these in regards to gear or bearing/shaft problem.
If I pull this thing out I am going to do as best rebuild I can within the kits that are offered. It will be my first time rebuilding one but planning on doing it when the weather gets colder and it is parked in the garage. I try to drive it daily now to save mileage on my truck.
1999 was the last time I owned a LX 5.0 Fox and I swear I think the T-5s have went up more than the price of gas has.
I have had someone tell me it was more than likely the gears that are whining from wear and the input/mainshaft contributing to the whine and it would be better to buy a rebuilt unit. I just don't trust anything rebuilt that you see for sale in the 6-800 range. Not that I trust myself rebuilding this one but at least I know who to blame.
@90sickfox I have looked at Hanlon and 5speedparts.com (Paul Cangialosi) for rebuild kits. $330 plus was a sticker shock when I keep hearing everyone say they got a rebuild kit for 100-150 bucks. I am not sure what is in those kits but I am not sure why you would spend the time to rebuild/refresh one if you were not going to replace the bearings and synchros and every kit I see with those are in the 300.00 range.
In regards to the main shaft, are their specific things outside of visual scouring like tapers and warpage that would make one want to avoid buying them used?
Thanks for the info guys!
If I pull this thing out I am going to do as best rebuild I can within the kits that are offered. It will be my first time rebuilding one but planning on doing it when the weather gets colder and it is parked in the garage. I try to drive it daily now to save mileage on my truck.
1999 was the last time I owned a LX 5.0 Fox and I swear I think the T-5s have went up more than the price of gas has.
I have had someone tell me it was more than likely the gears that are whining from wear and the input/mainshaft contributing to the whine and it would be better to buy a rebuilt unit. I just don't trust anything rebuilt that you see for sale in the 6-800 range. Not that I trust myself rebuilding this one but at least I know who to blame.
@90sickfox I have looked at Hanlon and 5speedparts.com (Paul Cangialosi) for rebuild kits. $330 plus was a sticker shock when I keep hearing everyone say they got a rebuild kit for 100-150 bucks. I am not sure what is in those kits but I am not sure why you would spend the time to rebuild/refresh one if you were not going to replace the bearings and synchros and every kit I see with those are in the 300.00 range.
In regards to the main shaft, are their specific things outside of visual scouring like tapers and warpage that would make one want to avoid buying them used?
Thanks for the info guys!
