Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

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Rock Auto wins again! Got my store credit and 5% discount. Complete set of lifters was $90 shipped, leaving me a balance of $20 today. Not bad. Engine should be buttoned up by the end of the week.

I need motor mounts. What are your thoughts on what to use for this application?
 
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Rock Auto wins again! Got my store credit and 5% discount. Complete set of lifters was $90 shipped, leaving me a balance of $20 today. Not bad. Engine should be buttoned up by the end of the week.

I need motor mounts. What are your thoughts on what to use for this application?

I would try convertible mounts with a 1/2 or 1 inch spacer between the frame and k member. If that doesn't get it, there's always the drop mounts like i sold @stykthyn
 
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Rock Auto wins again! Got my store credit and 5% discount. Complete set of lifters was $90 shipped, leaving me a balance of $20 today. Not bad. Engine should be buttoned up by the end of the week.

I need motor mounts. What are your thoughts on what to use for this application?


Motor Plate......
image.jpeg

:)
 
As far as I'm concerned, the nvh transmitted to the chassis by using a solid mount is negligible on a hobby car like most fox mustangs are purposed as now days.
Much in the same way a solid steering coupler transmits all of the vibrations you'll feel if you use one of those as well.
Rubber/ poly stuff has its intended market.....weiners that want stock feeling nvh characteristics on their cars despite the fact that the engine may, or may not make over twice the power it made stock.

Talk about bi-polar.

The benefit you get in trade when you solidly mount the engine outweighs the increase in noticible harshness......and it can be applied across the board, regardless of what you do with it.

The engine becomes a structural member in the front end, increasing the torsional rigidity. Less chassis flex, equates to a more tunable chassis.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner
 
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As far as I'm concerned, the nvh transmitted to the chassis by using a solid mount is negligible on a hobby car like most fox mustangs are purposed as now days.
Much in the same way a solid steering coupler transmits all of the vibrations you'll feel if you use one of those as well.
Rubber/ poly stuff has its intended market.....weiners that want stock feeling nvh characteristics on their cars despite the fact that the engine may, or may not make over twice the power it made stock.

Talk about bi-polar.

The benefit you get in trade when you solidly mount the engine outweighs the increase in noticible harshness......and it can be applied across the board, regardless of what you do with it.

The engine becomes a structural member in the front end, increasing the torsional rigidity. Less chassis flex, equates to a more tunable chassis.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner
Fermented chickens?
 
I didn't have the timing in the software synced to the actual timing.
You have to set the base timing at 10° with the A9L, then install the MS and see where the timing is with the timing light. In my case, it was advanced like 40° - no joke. So I had to adjust the trigger angle offset in the software until I measured 10° with the timing light.

My MS system should arrive today and I've read different things on how to set the timing. Here's my plan, tell me if I'm being dumb.

Set the base timing at 10° with the A9L with the SPOUT removed, then check it with the MS2PNP installed and adjust trigger angle in TS unitl it's matching the 10° I see with the timing light and then set "fixed advance" back to "use table" and then DO NOT reconnect the SPOUT right?