Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?
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I still just don't know why people just don't google this stuff;
351 W rod length is 5.956, unless you happen to find some early 69 vintage rods, then in that case they are a whole whopping .002 shorter.
351 W rod length is 5.956, unless you happen to find some early 69 vintage rods, then in that case they are a whole whopping .002 shorter.
Google is your friend...You can find anything with Google but buried treasure...
Because Mike, I trust some of the opinions here more then I do Google. . . . some. 
- Dec 19, 2010
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I have heard of 5.7 rods in a 351w... doing a search of it rendered this, which I wasn't expecting:
Chevy rod on Ford crank? | Mustang Forums at StangNet
Different meaning of 5.7 ah reckon..
Chevy rod on Ford crank? | Mustang Forums at StangNet
Different meaning of 5.7 ah reckon..
If you were gonna put a chevy rod on a 351w crank, why in the hell wouldn't you put a 6" rod there instead then? For that matter, why (now that you can buy good rods for a 351w for cheap) would you even do it in the first place?
** edit.....Unless you're trying to do that in 2006, when an aftermarket 351w rod may not have even been available, and if it was, it was probably twice as expensive as the chevy rod was.
or...
**** edit, edit. You're trying to build some 374 c.i. 302 architecture block based build to fit your 65 mustang.
I tell ya,...why everybody doesn't just stick with the plethora of 5.0 junk that's available out there for their power plants and just be happy......
People always gotta re-invent the wheel when it comes to putting an engine in their cars just for the sake of being different.
** edit.....Unless you're trying to do that in 2006, when an aftermarket 351w rod may not have even been available, and if it was, it was probably twice as expensive as the chevy rod was.
or...
**** edit, edit. You're trying to build some 374 c.i. 302 architecture block based build to fit your 65 mustang.
I tell ya,...why everybody doesn't just stick with the plethora of 5.0 junk that's available out there for their power plants and just be happy......
People always gotta re-invent the wheel when it comes to putting an engine in their cars just for the sake of being different.
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Nobody is putting Chevy rods anywhere. Just curious as I am keeping my eyes out for a good deal on some rods should they surface.
Ummm not trying to be a **** but I do find your last paragraph a little hypocritical. Mr Aussie straight six Turbo Man.If you were gonna put a chevy rod on a 351w crank, why in the hell wouldn't you put a 6" rod there instead then? For that matter, why (now that you can buy good rods for a 351w for cheap) would you even do it in the first place?
** edit.....Unless you're trying to do that in 2006, when an aftermarket 351w rod may not have even been available, and if it was, it was probably twice as expensive as the chevy rod was.
or...
**** edit, edit. You're trying to build some 374 c.i. 302 architecture block based build to fit your 65 mustang.
I tell ya,...why everybody doesn't just stick with the plethora of 5.0 junk that's available out there for their power plants and just be happy......
People always gotta re-invent the wheel when it comes to putting an engine in their cars just for the sake of being different.
Im 99.9% sure that was intentionanlUmmm not trying to be a **** but I do find your last paragraph a little hypocritical. Mr Aussie straight six Turbo Man.
I'm still chipping away at the restoration of the drip edge. Got the pass side finished up last night, here is a before and some after shots:
During:
After:
Going to try and finish the driver side tonight so I can do the quarter windows this weekend. Also, in between paint coats last night, I started the prep work on my bumper cover. Really tired of driving around with a busted ass rear bumper, really makes the car look awful.
Going to go to the local paint store and see if they can match it this weekend. The car is supposed to be Titanium Frost, but I have my doubts. It definitely was from the factory, but was cheaply repainted and who knows what was used...
During:
After:
Going to try and finish the driver side tonight so I can do the quarter windows this weekend. Also, in between paint coats last night, I started the prep work on my bumper cover. Really tired of driving around with a busted ass rear bumper, really makes the car look awful.
Going to go to the local paint store and see if they can match it this weekend. The car is supposed to be Titanium Frost, but I have my doubts. It definitely was from the factory, but was cheaply repainted and who knows what was used...
- Dec 19, 2010
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@hoopty5.0
Nice work! you really aren't going to want to sell it when it gets down to it..
PS: like the toolbox in the edge of the pic there..
Nice work! you really aren't going to want to sell it when it gets down to it..
PS: like the toolbox in the edge of the pic there..
Because Mike, I trust some of the opinions here more then I do Google. . . . some.
True story... Many times I've already googled (still not blind) and ask on SN for verification.
Time for a necessary upgrade. Harbor Freight finally had a sale on the box I've been eyeing for a long, long time. Wish I had enough to buy the top box, but it will come in time.
I want! Still on sale?Time for a necessary upgrade. Harbor Freight finally had a sale on the box I've been eyeing for a long, long time. Wish I had enough to buy the top box, but it will come in time.
Yes, the tent sale is today and tomorrow. If you are an inside track member, it started last night. Got it for $349, marked down from the usual $389.
PS - can you PM me where you bought your heads and what you paid for them?
New quarter windows installed!
Few more loose ends to tie up with this project, but it's 95% done. I also spent $250 for materials to repaint my bumpers and get the paint back to 100%. Maybe next weekend will get painted. I did find out that although the car is an original Ti Frost car, it's been painted a F******G honda color.
Few more loose ends to tie up with this project, but it's 95% done. I also spent $250 for materials to repaint my bumpers and get the paint back to 100%. Maybe next weekend will get painted. I did find out that although the car is an original Ti Frost car, it's been painted a F******G honda color.
Need some clutch input here diagnosing what could be happening -
The clutch seems to adjust itself while driving - meaning the disengagement point moves around in the pedal throw. Usually, it begins to grab about 1" off the floor. Sometimes it will randomly change so that it starts to grab towards the end of the throw just before you take your foot off the pedal. Another thing that happens when the engagment point move towards the end is the pedal gets lighter towards the floorboard.
My guess is the quadrant/pawl is bad and I need to buy an aftermarket piece. Am I on the right track, or did I wiff it and miss something completely?
The clutch seems to adjust itself while driving - meaning the disengagement point moves around in the pedal throw. Usually, it begins to grab about 1" off the floor. Sometimes it will randomly change so that it starts to grab towards the end of the throw just before you take your foot off the pedal. Another thing that happens when the engagment point move towards the end is the pedal gets lighter towards the floorboard.
My guess is the quadrant/pawl is bad and I need to buy an aftermarket piece. Am I on the right track, or did I wiff it and miss something completely?
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