Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

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Maybe I should clarify. I test ran it, everything looked 'ok', so I latched it.

Nope.

Unfortunatley, it was late and wife was yelling about dinner, blah, blah. So I have not had a chance to make any adjustments. Hoping this weekend to get both cars home at the same time.
 
MRT makes two different struts for the setup, one for a steel hood and one for a fiberglass hood. different compression rates. We just installed the "steel" ones on my stock hood. They had to literally move the hood a good ways up the cowl to counter the strut compression and get a good seam line between hood and cowl, even after that the hood sits a slight 1/16 - 1/8" up on the cowl side but is only noticeable if youre looking for it. Theyve been known to warp fiberglass hoods according to folks I talked to and respect who've installed them if you use the steel version.

Ill post a pic of mine tomorrow so you can compare...
 
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They used a foam block set up on the rad and shorter ones on the cowl to protect the paint and set the hood back a few inches. From what they said it took a long time and allot of trial to get it just right, so take your time The line is perfect my phone makes it look off but its not.
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Its at the top shop, which mount? the fender mount they turned it as far in (towards fender) as possible at its rear, the strut wants to twist on its pivot as it closes forcing the hood to lift, so this was their soln to that. I may be by the top shop later today and if so Ill load up on close ups for you.
 
Its at the top shop, which mount? the fender mount they turned it as far in (towards fender) as possible at its rear, the strut wants to twist on its pivot as it closes forcing the hood to lift, so this was their soln to that. I may be by the top shop later today and if so Ill load up on close ups for you.
Well mine is rotated just as you mentioned, and the strut was hitting the mount as it closed.
 
Amazing how well things work when you have the brackets on the right side.

I still had to move the hood back 1/2" to make it all fit right, but all is well.
 
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Well between 2 full days of yard work and a pet guinea pig going to the hamster wheel in the sky, I found a hot minute to dabble with porting the P heads I picked up.

Not doing anything wild, there are 3 areas I'm going to work - knocking down the EGR bump as pictured here, blending the bowls in a couple places, and working on the valve guides. Should make some moderate differences, especially when going to a 1.90 intake valve.
 
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Slowly chipping away at the exhaust ports. Last night, I blended the bowls and worked the valve guides on the exhaust ports. I'm trying to pry some info on working the short side radius out of some folks, but people closely guard this ancient info for some reason. Like gov't docs from the '50s - who gives a :poo: anymore? Help me out, dude! Anyway, the improvements I have made in the exhaust ports should make exponential gains.

I have not touched the intake ports yet. They're VERY finnicky from what I've read and it's best to not do anything other than blend the bowls and unshroud the valve some. Still planning on a 1.90 intake valve. Seems to really help the mid-range, which is the meat and potatoes of making power with these heads.

Before and after:

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