Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

Well, my car budget is basically dried up until the end of the year for 'bigger' expenditures, so I'm dragging my feet a little with finishing the engine work. The car runs fine, so there's no rush.

With that said, a few months ago, I bought paint and supplies to respray the front and rear bumpers. The rear bumper is 99% stripped and at the paint shop. Last night, I decided to get started on the front. I can't tell you how much it bothers me to drive around with paint missing.


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You may be thinking, "Hey, where's the hard plastic front bumper that goes behind the cover?" To which I'd reply, "Good question, probably the same place as the rear bumper that goes behind the cover, which is not in my ownership." The front bumper cover was held on by 6 nuts barely finger tight, 3 on each side and the 2 bolts on the core support.

The fender extensions are hanging on by a prayer. I am going to have to take off the entire front clip, inventory what hardware is missing and order it from LMR. Amazing what people think they can get away with, and this has shady paint shop half assing a wreck repair all over it.


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That's how far I got before realizing I was out of sanding pads...
 
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:nice: Funny how in just 5 short years of frequenting this place how priorities change.

After talking w/ Allen, I have learned that it wasn't just me advising you against certain paths that you've chosen to take:
i.e.

"Uhhh Collin, You might wanna rethink using 24 ga. sheetmetal as fender aprons";

"Uhhh Collin, You might wanna invest in a real tubing bender if you're gonna start trying to bend up your own 25. certed chassis";

"Uhhh Collin, You might wanna finish at least one 351 project before you sell off the pieces";

"Uhhh Collin, How will selling the gas guzzling pickup and buying a supercharged new edge save you anything on your 30 mile one way commute?"

You know the standard fare for friendly advice.
 
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I made some progress on my build. Or did some building in my progress thread. Not sure what's PC here anymore :p

Leave it to Stangnetters to make a giant mountain out of a couple of dust bunnies found whilst sweeping the floor. :rolleyes:

Has the question been asked about what flow numbers you DO expect? What are we shooting for here? Name the off-the-shelf item you're looking to equal.

The heads look great, by the way. :nice: How many hours did the first head take?
 
Leave it to Stangnetters to make a giant mountain out of a couple of dust bunnies found whilst sweeping the floor. :rolleyes:

Has the question been asked about what flow numbers you DO expect? What are we shooting for here? Name the off-the-shelf item you're looking to equal.

The heads look great, by the way. :nice: How many hours did the first head take?

I'm trying not to have any expectations for fear of disappointment. Peak flow, I've learned, is really nothing to concern myself with, so if I can get the mid-range numbers to equal or best a TF170, I'd call it a success. Below are some 'actual' TF170 numbers that show they aren't too hard to out perform. At any rate, the point of the exercise is not to have a good flowing set of heads, but instead learn to port on cheap heads and be able to apply said principles to better heads later on when I can afford to upgrade. And if by doing so I end up with some well performing P heads, then I'll be just as happy. I think I have something around 20 hours in the first head, if you count the do-over.

TW170 flow numbers.png
 
If it performs at or over anything head that costs more than what you have into them, then bonus! hehe

As it stands:
Heads: $100
1.90" intake valves, Spring kit, hardware, seals: $180
machine work: $275
porting tools: $40

Total: $595 - Still cheaper than a set of used 170s that I'd still have to replace springs on anyway.
 
I think you'll have a very solid street head after you're done. And on the cheap which = win/win IMO. Should have plenty of usable torque in the mid range. Seeing your flow numbers I would think you'll reach your goal.
 
As it stands:
Heads: $100
1.90" intake valves, Spring kit, hardware, seals: $180
machine work: $275
porting tools: $40

Total: $595 - Still cheaper than a set of used 170s that I'd still have to replace springs on anyway.
Apparently your time is worth ZILCH....................:rolleyes: If you factor in minimum wage X 20 hrs...add over $180 for one head. (don't know what minimum wage in Texas is.) If you pay yourself the new minimum wage in Seattle add $300.00 Cheaper to just buy good heads, just sayin....,.I know, I know it is a learning experience, just bustin chops here.:O_o:
 
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Before I post this I just want to say I'm just showing TFS's posted flow chart for the 205 11r's. Just for a comparison to the regular 170 heads. I realize it's not what you're trying to do. I just thought someone might want to know.

.100 71-60
.200 140-111
.300 208-150
.400 261 185
.500 298-212
.600 321-227
 
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Apparently your time is worth ZILCH....................:rolleyes: If you factor in minimum wage X 20 hrs...add over $180 for one head. (don't know what minimum wage in Texas is.) If you pay yourself the new minimum wage in Seattle add $300.00 Cheaper to just buy good heads, just sayin....,.I know, I know it is a learning experience, just bustin chops here.:O_o:
This is my hobby, so my time spent doing this is worth it's weight in gold because it keeps me sane! Hahahah I was just talking about this with a buddy this weekend. If I didn't have something like this to tinker with, I'd have lost my mind a long time ago.
 
Before I post this I just want to say I'm just showing TFS's posted flow chart for the 205 11r's. Just for a comparison to the regular 170 heads. I realize it's not what you're trying to do. I just thought someone might want to know.

.100 71-60
.200 140-111
.300 208-150
.400 261 185
.500 298-212
.600 321-227

Did they provide bore size, tube size, and vaccuum? A lot of times, they will use a bigger bore size (4.125") which skews the higher lift flow numbers because it unshrouds the valve.