Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?

[FoxMustangLvr]

I wouldn't be buying any spacers until you know exactly what the fix is to make all the parts and pieces work together and play nicely.

Issues and possible fixes with EGR delete
When deleting the EGR, the MC Machines throttle cable bracket helps the bracket clear the heater tube while still looking nice (or you can hack the stock bracket). However when deleting the EGR you lose the ability to mount your throttle cable. Either fab something up or you can purchase a 3/8" EGR delete spacer that comes with new TB mounting hardware and the tab to mount your throttle bracket. That combined with cutting the tab off of the heater tube should do the trick. Now that the bracket mounts up you now probably have the linkage dragging/contacting the valve cover? A lower to upper intake spacer should solve this, no?

For anyone else reading this is not a "how to delete" for EGR that I just wrote, only a couple remedies for issues when doing the delete. You still have vacuum lines and coolant lines to cap off.

 

[hoopty5.0]

The phenolic spacer will cure the linkage to heater tube clearance issue. I made one friday for the stock intake out of wood, but decided against using it after talking to @Boosted92LX. I have a 1" spacer (a real one) for a GT40 style intake, so now that I have the intake itself, all should be working fine together, especially once I make a bracket to mount the throttle linkage to.

 

[hoopty5.0]

I ordered a Fel-Pro lower intake gasket set from Rock Auto for under $13 shipped. I suggest if you need one anytime soon, get it now. They're over $30 from the parts stores last I checked.


*edit - already got tracking number and says I should have it tomorrow. WHAAAAT??? Ill take it.

 

[Boosted92LX]

I ordered a Fel-Pro lower intake gasket set from Rock Auto for under $13 shipped. I suggest if you need one anytime soon, get it now. They're over $30 from the parts stores last I checked.


*edit - already got tracking number and says I should have it tomorrow. WHAAAAT??? Ill take it.

From Rock Auto?! That's gotta be some kind of record! Not sure I believe it.....

 

[Noobz347]

From Rock Auto?! That's gotta be some kind of record! Not sure I believe it.....

You must live in the ding-toolies. Either that or your rock isn't the right color.

 

[Boosted92LX]

You must live in the ding-toolies. Either that or your rock isn't the right color.

I'm a stone's throw from Houston.. Just seems anytime I order something from Rock Auto it's a minimum of 5 business days. I've had parts take two weeks to get here. Maybe it's just because everything up in Yankee land was frozen and the brown trucks were sliding around bumping into each other??

 

[Noobz347]

I'm a stone's throw from Houston.. Just seems anytime I order something from Rock Auto it's a minimum of 5 business days. I've had parts take two weeks to get here. Maybe it's just because everything up in Yankee land was frozen and the brown trucks were sliding around bumping into each other??

I think it's Texas man. lol I ordered a set of "Chaoli" motors for my quad over a week ago. Estimated delivery date was 1 Oct.

Maybe someone in Shreveport LA doesn't like you guys?

 

[hoopty5.0]

Well, I lied. It's in Texas, but they bumped delivery back a day to tomorrow. I spent last night soldering wires anyhow, so Im not ready to install the intake quite yet.

My finger looks like a surface wound now more than an oozing gash, so maybe I'll get to it before the weekend.

All that's left to do before I start it is run the + cable to the trunk, install a battery, and swap intakes, then it will be 'running' again. After that is putting the body back together. Getting close!

 

[84Ttop]

Unrelated finger accident? Please explain.... Tim the Tool man type incident or what??

 

[hoopty5.0]

Unrelated finger accident? Please explain.... Tim the Tool man type incident or what??

See rant thread in squeaky wheel for pics, etc. LOL


I have one other question - @jrichker Can I plug the canister purge valve into the harness like it should be, but put the valve in line between the gas tank vent and a vacuum port on the intake? I've had the vent line taped up because I didn't know what else to do with it since the emissions stuff is long gone. I found the valve in a leftovers box from other projects, would like to vent the fumes into the intake.

 

[jrichker]

You didn't mention a carbon canister and that is an important part of the system. You will need it in order to make it

Here is what I is supposed to look like/work like...

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:

The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:

 

[hoopty5.0]

You didn't mention a carbon canister and that is an important part of the system. You will need it in order to make it

Here is what I is supposed to look like/work like...

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:

The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:

I'm pretty sure I have everything BUT the canister. I can't hook it all up without it? I'm not against using one, i just don't have one readily accessible. They're also pricey to buy new. (>$50)

 

[jrichker]

I'm pretty sure I have everything BUT the canister. I can't hook it all up without it? I'm not against using one, i just don't have one readily accessible. They're also pricey to buy new. (>$50)

I haven't tried it without the carbon canister, but if Ford put it in there, it did serve an important purpose.

 

[hoopty5.0]

I haven't tried it without the carbon canister, but if Ford put it in there, it did serve an important purpose.

True. Appears to catch and absorb fuel vapors when the engine isn't running. I may try and track one down locally that has been pulled off and is collecting dust.

The Purpose of a Charcoal Canister | eHow

 

[Black1987]

True. Appears to catch and absorb fuel vapors when the engine isn't running. I may try and track one down locally that has been pulled off and is collecting dust.

The Purpose of a Charcoal Canister | eHow

Currently my car doesn't have a functioning one. The one thing you will notice is it will hiss bad after a long trip, when opening up the gas cap (to fill up at the gas station).

I feel like it causing me to lean out too, but I do not have definitive evidence on that.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Currently my car doesn't have a functioning one. The one thing you will notice is it will hiss bad after a long trip, when opening up the gas cap (to fill up at the gas station).

I feel like it causing me to lean out too, but I do not have definitive evidence on that.

Mine doesn't hiss, it's a full on blow out. It scares the crap out of me because it is ridiculously dangerous to have that much fuel vapor in one spot like that. All it needs is a little static electricity to have a really bad day.

 

[hoopty5.0]

I haven't tried it without the carbon canister, but if Ford put it in there, it did serve an important purpose.

Maybe the better question is can I put 12v to the valve to test it to make sure it functions before I go through the trouble of installing it?

 

[Black1987]

Mine doesn't hiss, it's a full on blow out. It scares the crap out of me because it is ridiculously dangerous to have that much fuel vapor in one spot like that. All it needs is a little static electricity to have a really bad day.

Yeah sounds like the BOV on a semi's air brakes. I picked up a used one off a 4 cylinder mustang out of the pick a part

 

[89oem]

Where's your vapor line? we just unhooked mine and its in the fender by where you cut your optional CAI hole...

Anyway mine hisses like serious when I gas up, then again vapor line does allow some fumes into the car if the windows are closed, Im thinking hooking up a canister is a good plan. bet any u-pull would have one....

 

[hoopty5.0]

Where's your vapor line?

Just dangles around in the engine compartment, usually always in the way. There's enough raggedy half-way-drag-car-half-needs-to-be-crushed foxes running around Houston that someone has a canister laying around. But I am going to see if I can get by without one first just for the sake of not having to find a new hidden place to mount it, then making brackets, blah, blah....