Build Thread Dusty is at it again...

[90sickfox]

OK...after much thought and removing the end links I've found out....

A) Shortening the end links will not help me.

B) I did reuse my v8 sway bar brackets.

C) The sway bar hits the corner of the pan when swung up and down.

D) I'm going to make spacers to lower the bar about 3/4 inch...then adjust the end links for correct geometry.

With all the info on the web about 7 quart race pans not clearing the sway bar you'd think someone would make a spacer. MM makes a relocation kit but it also moves the bar forward about 1 inch...no room for that...and 60 bucks...pppfffttt. I'll figure out something cheaper.

 

[90sickfox]

I took the first step and bought some 1.5 inch wide 1/4 inch steel. Now to measure, cut, drill, and get the sway bar off my pan.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

If you drop the sway bar, aren't you concerned that you are/will F up the relationship to the swivel points w/ regard to the control arms?

I don't know a lot about it, but I'd imagine that dropping the sway bar will lower the intersect line w/ the control arm pivot point and conflict w/ the up/down movement of the LCA. If that happens,.....bad handling things arise as a result.

** edit

But I was looking after I posted, and it doesn't appear to affect a car that isn't purpose built to handle in a competition based situation,....so lower away.

 

[90sickfox]

If you drop the sway bar, aren't you concerned that you are/will F up the relationship to the swivel points w/ regard to the control arms?

I don't know a lot about it, but I'd imagine that dropping the sway bar will lower the intersect line w/ the control arm pivot point and conflict w/ the up/down movement of the LCA. If that happens,.....bad handling things arise as a result.

** edit

But I was looking after I posted, and it doesn't appear to affect a car that isn't purpose built to handle in a competition based situation,....so lower away.

Thanks for the heads up... I'm going to shorten the sleeve between the sway bar end links the same amount that I lower the sway bar. Should be OK....I hope.

 

[90sickfox]

Marked up the metal stock to make spacers. I made six of them for 3/4 a side ( if needed ).

I didn't do a bunch of measuring...just whipped out the sharpie and traced the sway bar mount onto the metal stock over and over and over and over...you get the idea.

These drill bits made easy work of the quarter inch steel.

Here's the tracing

Here are the spacers after running the grinder over the edges. They'll get painted after I test fit everything.

So far, so good...

 

[90sickfox]

No more sway bar hitting the pan... The issue is fixed.

Only needed 2 spacers equaling 1/2 inch. Chopped 1/2 inch of my end link spacer... Added a couple washers to the bolt and the sway bar end sits level with the control arm.

Now, onto the rear brake pads, calipers, and rotors on the Taurus..smh

 

[90sickfox]

Finally, I have time to get back to the front bumper

It took a lot of thought to figure out a way to keep it removable. Going on the railer won't happen if this thing doesn't go on and off. Pics will come soon.

The hardest decision is color....should I have it painted body color ( carbernet red ) or should I paint it SEM black ....or a shade of silver....or neon yellow ?

 

[90sickfox]

You have to take the bumper off to load it?
Why not bridge the ramps, we've done this for years with flat bed trucks to get low riders on and off, Porsches, lambos and other exotic cars with no damage.

I can make my ramps 6ft - 7ft long....or use 2 x 6s as extensions. ( all need somewhere to go for storage ) or take the nose off the car...put it back on when its up on the trailer.

I can take the whole nose off my car in about 5 minutes. less time if there's a crowd around

 

[General karthief]

dude, you got it figuared out. Those flat beds have enough storage space to hide 2 smart cars, if only some knew how to use 'the right tool for the job'
Just ask madmike

 

[90sickfox]

Got some stuff in the mail. This 3 gauge pillar pod is really nice quality...night cheap from GlowShift...

Just test fitting...aand it fits great.

Sorry guys....I like gauges...that's 7 not including the factory stuff. The new multiple gauge electronic crap would drive me crazy. Trying to push buttons to see different readings and all.

Some prefer a more factory look....not me...I want my car to look like an airplane cockpit. Lol

 

[90sickfox]

I got the boost gauge and pod buttoned up last night. The instructions say to overlay it over the factory A pillar. There is no way feasable to do that and the pod is a direct replacement. The only difference is on the door seal side. The factory pillar folds over the seal..the new pillar does not. It works out great and looks good.

 

[90sickfox]

That is a good looking boost gauge. Who makes it?

I suggest that you set your boost level somewhere between Steve Boost, and Mike Boost to start,...and depending on how soon you want to tear it back down,...avoid Collin Boost until AFTER you have it sorted out.

Its made by Glowshift and is under their MaxTow brand name. I ordered my fuel pressure gauge from a third party ( by mistake ) and liked it so much I had to order their brand boost gauge. The FP gauge came through Amazon but I went directly to the glowshift website to order this one. Shipping was really quick.

They have a bunch of different gauge selections... all are electronic.


I was going for 30psi...just to see if I can beat our resident " intake pipe hurling " champion.

 

[90sickfox]

I had a rough weekend with Ol'Dusty. Got in it...turned the key and crank crank crank crank sputter....crank crank crank poof...crank crank sputter...

Had my lady crank it and I grabbed the salt and pepper shakers and what do ya know....the car started

Those got darn freaking pieces of feces !!!

Well, I started to cut out 40 wires and straight wire the darn things... Decided to take them apart and clean them...again. Pulled each pin and sprayed electrical cleaner and wiped the off individually....but what do ya think I found ? Yup freaking water is getting inside the connectors through the hole at the back of my cowl hood. I see an order from painless wiring in my future.

Needless to say, I loaded it with dielectric grease...but couldn't start yet.

From cranking I fouled every last spark plug....so that meant pulling each one and cleaning it off.

During that time I took the opportunity to fix my previously " lightly smoldered " number 4 spark plug wire.

Jumped in the car and fired it up....freaking thing idled rough as hell..but idled. Shut it off and......found out my dumb a%& didn't put any of the wires on the drivers side plugs. It actually idled on just the right bank ( 4 plugs ).

Hooked them up and she was running great !!! So was my wife's mouth

I have been noticing a bumping feeling in the steering wheel.... This stuff came off of my other car....lined up perfectly...but...

That noise is the rag joint bolts hitting the motor mount bracket ....

Now I have a new project brewing... I'm going to attempt to weld a 3/4 inch 36 spline steering knuck on my steering shaft. The rag joint has to go....either I pay 187 bucks....or 30. The wife wants a 17 mustang and a new house ...I want a new truck...so we's on a budget.

 

[90sickfox]

Something is on its way

 

[a91what]

Oooohhhhh ahhhhh what could it be.....

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I had a rough weekend with Ol'Dusty. Got in it...turned the key and crank crank crank crank sputter....crank crank crank poof...crank crank sputter...

Had my lady crank it and I grabbed the salt and pepper shakers and what do ya know....the car started

Those got darn freaking pieces of feces !!!

Well, I started to cut out 40 wires and straight wire the darn things... Decided to take them apart and clean them...again. Pulled each pin and sprayed electrical cleaner and wiped the off individually....but what do ya think I found ? Yup freaking water is getting inside the connectors through the hole at the back of my cowl hood. I see an order from painless wiring in my future.

Needless to say, I loaded it with dielectric grease...but couldn't start yet.

From cranking I fouled every last spark plug....so that meant pulling each one and cleaning it off.

During that time I took the opportunity to fix my previously " lightly smoldered " number 4 spark plug wire.

Jumped in the car and fired it up....freaking thing idled rough as hell..but idled. Shut it off and......found out my dumb a%& didn't put any of the wires on the drivers side plugs. It actually idled on just the right bank ( 4 plugs ).

Hooked them up and she was running great !!! So was my wife's mouth

I have been noticing a bumping feeling in the steering wheel.... This stuff came off of my other car....lined up perfectly...but...

That noise is the rag joint bolts hitting the motor mount bracket ....

Now I have a new project brewing... I'm going to attempt to weld a 3/4 inch 36 spline steering knuck on my steering shaft. The rag joint has to go....either I pay 187 bucks....or 30. The wife wants a 17 mustang and a new house ...I want a new truck...so we's on a budget

.

You guys,....Everytime I see/hear that somebody is gonna weld a universal joint I just cringe.
The needle bearings don't like the heat. You have to be very cognizant of that.

Or you could just say What the fck and buy the double D stuff and just tighten a set screw.

Been on every car I've built. If you cut the shaft the right length,..the thing cannot come apart...Impossible

 

[90sickfox]

You guys,....Everytime I see/hear that somebody is gonna weld a universal joint I just cringe.
The needle bearings don't like the heat. You have to be very cognizant of that.

Or you could just say What the fck and buy the double D stuff and just tighten a set screw.

Been on every car I've built. If you cut the shaft the right length,..the thing cannot come apart...Impossible

If I was to weld the joint I would remove the u joint from the assembly.

I bought the 3/4 inch 36 spline to 3/4 DD universal joint. I diceded to machine the stock shaft to accept the joint...so I won't be welding it. Its just machining two flat spots and drilling a hole....easy peasy.

Buying the DD shaft stock seems like it would make more work at the collapsible column end....even though it takes a DD shaft coming out of the stock u joint. Didn't really want to have to build an entire shaft....for the price and time I could buy one already made.

 

[90sickfox]

I don't know why I left the builders valve cover gaskets on this build. The drivers side is leaking pretty bad. The bolts are as tight as I'm willing to turn them.

I'm going back to what I know....

Also, found a Holley Systemax upper intake gasket at Advance Auto....ordered it so it should be be in store Sunday.

 

[90sickfox]

@Davedacarpainter ...does my memery serve correctly....did you use PBA to restore your quarter windows on the red car ?

I'm thinking about tackling mine soon... I also want to make rain gaurds for my front windows... gonna take a while to sort that out. I saw a CRX with gaurds that fit flush with the door frame...not like the typical vent shade. They didn't bubble out.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Nope, it's a four eye as well, so it has lovers and metal trim around the window.

PBA could be used though, sure would be a durable repair.