Hey folks,
Some of you have probably seen my couple posts on my 91 GT Vert. I bought the car not running and trailered it home.
Working with my best bud on the car as he is a very seasoned mechanic as well a top notch diagnostic guy. We were suspecting a head gasket or worse as when I got the car home and we finally diagnosed the computer being bad, I plugged in the new/used to me comp. and the car fired right up. Time to fill the coolant!
I started with just the hose and water was coming out from under the car as fast I could put it in. I crawl around a bit and 2 freeze plugs are gone on the drivers side and the one under the starter is half way out and sideways leaking water onto the starter. I replace the plugs and re-fill.
I knew this car had some kind of possible coolant issue as the PO used just plain water and of coarse it turned Orange colored. Well this orange was on the firewall, which led me to noticing the heater cores broken off beaded tube. You could also see the stains up near the rad and under the car like it was moving when it over heated. This all helped to negotiate a good price.
So I have the car running sweet and got the new top frame on. Working on interior and small stuff now. While working on it I have been taking it on short drives to see how everything is working. While the drives go fine when I stop I am getting some bubbling in the coolant res. The cap does steam a little but never a complete overheat. If I take the rad cap off before it gets hot it will kind of slowly push coolant out.
So I start looking into the cooling system. upon checking the car had no thermostat in it so I replaced that, Also threw a new Rad in as the one in the car felt heavy like it was clogged with the orange stuff.
I had to verify temp and the temp gauge was not working. So we used a device that reads surface temps. We got 230°F at the rad core inlet after the car had gone for a hot lap or 2. Then replaced the sender and the gauge began working. Went near red when I fired it up and let it run.
Thought well maybe the water pump was bad even if it wasn't leaking. Upon removing it seemed to be in fine shape as far as I could tell.
I was skeptical it was not burning coolant out the exhaust though. I thought I could see it once in a while but wasn't sure. Checked the oil many times to make sure it never had coolant in it.
Then my buddy brought home a device that reads whether there is exhaust in the coolant. (should have done this first). Sure enough there is exhaust in the coolant.
Time to tear things down. Got it torn down and one of the head gaskets is leaking. Short block seems to be in great shape. The cylinders look perfect and we agreed that the short block was in good shape. The car is advertised as having 82,000 on it. And it ran as good as any during these drives. Never smoked and for stock was fun as heck.
I have owned a couple of these long ago and have always wanted another since now I have money to throw at one. So a stock motor was not going to work this time.
I expected to get the new top on and interior done before a motor build but here I am with a short block sitting in the car and no way I'm putting it back together with the stock parts.
Me and the wife bought this car to drive it in the spring and summer on nice days and such. We want power but want to stay N/A. I don't want a race car just a fun driver that performs in all levels of driving.
So my thoughts are simple. GT-40 intake and heads, stock cam? Explorer TB and MAF, good headers and complete exhaust.
Thinking of using the 1.72 rockers to lift the stock cam up a bit. New push rods ect.
355 or 373 rear gears. The car is a manual.
Nothing much more than the 1000's already out there have.
Cam question.
Will my stock cam be good with the 1.72 rockers? Can I go bigger without effecting drive ability or messing with the computer? What is a good cam for my application if I can go bigger? How much more power can I get from a bigger cam for the extra money for cam, lifters, chain ect as opposed to just rockers and push rods?
Heads.
I can get re-manufactured 96 explorer GT-40 heads for 250 each. Any reason I should go with some others in aluminum?
Smog equipment.
I live is a county that does not require emissions. Should I remove it all?
I'm looking for others thoughts and concerns on any engine aspects. Opinions ect.
There will be allot more done to this car. Sub frame connectors, suspension, brake upgrades ext. And I'm sure I will have more questions as the build rolls on.
Right now Im forced to focus on the engine.
Thanks for any reply's!
Some of you have probably seen my couple posts on my 91 GT Vert. I bought the car not running and trailered it home.
Working with my best bud on the car as he is a very seasoned mechanic as well a top notch diagnostic guy. We were suspecting a head gasket or worse as when I got the car home and we finally diagnosed the computer being bad, I plugged in the new/used to me comp. and the car fired right up. Time to fill the coolant!
I started with just the hose and water was coming out from under the car as fast I could put it in. I crawl around a bit and 2 freeze plugs are gone on the drivers side and the one under the starter is half way out and sideways leaking water onto the starter. I replace the plugs and re-fill.
I knew this car had some kind of possible coolant issue as the PO used just plain water and of coarse it turned Orange colored. Well this orange was on the firewall, which led me to noticing the heater cores broken off beaded tube. You could also see the stains up near the rad and under the car like it was moving when it over heated. This all helped to negotiate a good price.
So I have the car running sweet and got the new top frame on. Working on interior and small stuff now. While working on it I have been taking it on short drives to see how everything is working. While the drives go fine when I stop I am getting some bubbling in the coolant res. The cap does steam a little but never a complete overheat. If I take the rad cap off before it gets hot it will kind of slowly push coolant out.
So I start looking into the cooling system. upon checking the car had no thermostat in it so I replaced that, Also threw a new Rad in as the one in the car felt heavy like it was clogged with the orange stuff.
I had to verify temp and the temp gauge was not working. So we used a device that reads surface temps. We got 230°F at the rad core inlet after the car had gone for a hot lap or 2. Then replaced the sender and the gauge began working. Went near red when I fired it up and let it run.
Thought well maybe the water pump was bad even if it wasn't leaking. Upon removing it seemed to be in fine shape as far as I could tell.
I was skeptical it was not burning coolant out the exhaust though. I thought I could see it once in a while but wasn't sure. Checked the oil many times to make sure it never had coolant in it.
Then my buddy brought home a device that reads whether there is exhaust in the coolant. (should have done this first). Sure enough there is exhaust in the coolant.
Time to tear things down. Got it torn down and one of the head gaskets is leaking. Short block seems to be in great shape. The cylinders look perfect and we agreed that the short block was in good shape. The car is advertised as having 82,000 on it. And it ran as good as any during these drives. Never smoked and for stock was fun as heck.
I have owned a couple of these long ago and have always wanted another since now I have money to throw at one. So a stock motor was not going to work this time.
I expected to get the new top on and interior done before a motor build but here I am with a short block sitting in the car and no way I'm putting it back together with the stock parts.
Me and the wife bought this car to drive it in the spring and summer on nice days and such. We want power but want to stay N/A. I don't want a race car just a fun driver that performs in all levels of driving.
So my thoughts are simple. GT-40 intake and heads, stock cam? Explorer TB and MAF, good headers and complete exhaust.
Thinking of using the 1.72 rockers to lift the stock cam up a bit. New push rods ect.
355 or 373 rear gears. The car is a manual.
Nothing much more than the 1000's already out there have.
Cam question.
Will my stock cam be good with the 1.72 rockers? Can I go bigger without effecting drive ability or messing with the computer? What is a good cam for my application if I can go bigger? How much more power can I get from a bigger cam for the extra money for cam, lifters, chain ect as opposed to just rockers and push rods?
Heads.
I can get re-manufactured 96 explorer GT-40 heads for 250 each. Any reason I should go with some others in aluminum?
Smog equipment.
I live is a county that does not require emissions. Should I remove it all?
I'm looking for others thoughts and concerns on any engine aspects. Opinions ect.
There will be allot more done to this car. Sub frame connectors, suspension, brake upgrades ext. And I'm sure I will have more questions as the build rolls on.
Right now Im forced to focus on the engine.
Thanks for any reply's!