V3 Almost!

lower bolts get thread sealer on the threads. Upper bolts get assembly or moly lube on the threads that you attach the nuts to.. All bolts get assembly/moly lube under the washers and nut heads. You thread the bolts in hand tight and then snug them in.
ok thank you,thats what i was after,lucky i have assembly lube on hand.....thanks again guys
 
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i have one side in,as luck would have it the parts store that had 2 gaskets in stock was closed because of a wind storm we just had!....only was able to get one side!.....and long tubes suck!!
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very nice- those parts look like new. I'd tape over the distributor opening. You don't want anything falling down there.
I can speak from experience on that one, had the brass nut from my autometer temp sender fall down that hole when i first put tge explorer motor in. Needless to say i was pissed i had to take off the pan again before even being able to start the thing.
 
Those marks on cylinder walls. You said you could feel one with your finger nail. Those are usually due to FM(foreign material) and the rings/piston skirts rubbing them in. You can run with them for a while, just know that oil will blow by them somewhat depending on how deep they are. The rings won't settle into them or anything.

Hard telling how long you will get away with them like that but that is a sure sign that you will need a rebuild in the near future. I would think with fresh rings you might have 40,000ish miles maybe more on a daily driver before you see any real problems. And most likely your just going to be using more oil at that point. Might go to 70,000 before failure.

If you run it hard though at 40,000 miles she will be shot, if it lasts that long. You will see compression loss at this point and maybe even ring and/or cylinder failure.

Depends on what you plan to do with the car. Harder you run it the worse that cylinder will get. The worse it gets the more heat it will generate (hot spot) and cause premature wear leading to failure.
 
Those marks on cylinder walls. You said you could feel one with your finger nail. Those are usually due to FM(foreign material) and the rings/piston skirts rubbing them in. You can run with them for a while, just know that oil will blow by them somewhat depending on how deep they are. The rings won't settle into them or anything.

Hard telling how long you will get away with them like that but that is a sure sign that you will need a rebuild in the near future. I would think with fresh rings you might have 40,000ish miles maybe more on a daily driver before you see any real problems. And most likely your just going to be using more oil at that point. Might go to 70,000 before failure.

If you run it hard though at 40,000 miles she will be shot, if it lasts that long. You will see compression loss at this point and maybe even ring and/or cylinder failure.

Depends on what you plan to do with the car. Harder you run it the worse that cylinder will get. The worse it gets the more heat it will generate (hot spot) and cause premature wear leading to failure.
oh god just keeps getting better!.....well,it held perfect compression,i just have to run it and hope for the best!....i cant afford a rebuild again at this point!!
 
oh god just keeps getting better!.....well,it held perfect compression,i just have to run it and hope for the best!....i cant afford a rebuild again at this point!!
It will be fine . He's giving you the worst case scenario and more or less explaining what happens and why they are bad


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its good info and correct,sucks to see those scratches cause i try to keep things tip top,spent a lot of time and money on it but i keep getting burned!....but all i can do now it get it back together and hope i fixed my problem first!
 
its good info and correct,sucks to see those scratches cause i try to keep things tip top,spent a lot of time and money on it but i keep getting burned!....but all i can do now it get it back together and hope i fixed my problem first!
When it's running and driving you won't even no they are there ;)


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That's why unfortunatley you had to tear it down. Sometimes the leak down and other tests won't catch a HG. That one was definite toast. Glad to see you remain so upbeat about it all.
Me too cuz I'd be pissed if I were him but i am glad it was simple . This goes back to being glad you had a fusible link


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Me too cuz I'd be ****ed if I were him but i am glad it was simple . This goes back to being glad you had a fusible link


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

agreed Jeff. If he had cometic gaskets perhaps the gaskets would have blown, perhaps not- then it would have been a valve, a piston, a ring, etc.
 
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Me too cuz I'd be ****ed if I were him but i am glad it was simple . This goes back to being glad you had a fusible link


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
oh im pissed!....especially when i asked and tried to cover all the angles....but it is what it is,just want it working again.....through all this i only felt the boost once!!!!
 
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That's why unfortunatley you had to tear it down. Sometimes the leak down and other tests won't catch a HG. That one was definite toast. Glad to see you remain so upbeat about it all.
its hard but im trying too....also,i checked the head gasket number,its a 1011-1?...says for aluminumn heads is 1011-2?
 
its hard but im trying too....also,i checked the head gasket number,its a 1011-1?...says for aluminumn heads is 1011-2?

yeah. those are the ones with the inferior fire ring around the cylinder. I don't like them for boosted applications or with alum heads. they are better for iron heads.

9333's will do you right.
 
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ok got both heads on now.....my valves were a little loud with 1/2 turn and 1/4 turn snug?.....woud it hurt if i tightend them up a little more?....some people do a full turn?....but i was thinking 3/4 maybe?....or should i just stick with half?
 
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You could go a little past half I believe you'll be fine


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate