dshart08
New Member
Thanks bud I will definitely do so!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!
- Thread starter RacEoHolic330
- Start date
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
-
Sponsors (?)
I have not yet found a saleen wheel in that size, and the 9" one usually has a max of like 30ish offset which isn't enough. I've been wanting to put the SVE drift wheels on mine, but they have the same issue. I'm going to see if I can get the 18x10 size and then have them narrowed 1" and correct the bs/offset all at the same time. If that doesn't work I do like @RacEoHolic330 and get some custom wheels.
This is the list that @RacEoHolic330 gave me back in 2012 for the fittings and it worked out great for me but I also didn't completely re-route my brake hard lines like he did so there's a little difference for us.
"Check out my build thread. I posted a few more pictures there. The connections are not done yet though. I forgot to get adapter fittings. Here are all the parts you'll need to make it work:
WH 1442 - M10x1.0 to 3/8-24 adapters (to connect hard lines to soft lines - two needed)
WH 702X3 - Three way 3/8-24 Tee fitting
BK 8131204 - 20" pre-fabbed 3/16" hard line with 3/8-24 fittings
BK 8131205 - 30" pre-fabbed 3/16" hard line with 3/8-24 fittings
The part numbers are from Napa. The adapters might be special order. My local Napa has to order them for me."
As for mounting the brackets I drilled the 3 holes per side that are necessary but I didn't weld in the supports like Scott did, I just opened the top (trunk floor) with the hole saw so I could get the washer and nut down in there and then tighten from the outside without crushing the rail as it only hold it to the one side of the rail so it can't crush it.
If you currently have your pump between the tank and the SRA, you'll VERY likely have to move it. And whatever you do, install the FTBR before putting in the IRS. Or at least mount up the subframe while it's empty before you reassemble it as it's MUCH easier that way.
dshart08
New Member
Damn I was really hoping I could retain the Saleen wheels. Ugh, that ks for the rest of the info though. Looks like I may have to wait so I can figure out the wheel issue.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
So, the dyno session was not all sunshine and rainbows. Car wouldn't make over 700hp, and a 5psi increase in boost would only yield a 20hp gain. There were signs of spark blowout so I did a plug change and gapped the NGK 10's at .022. Engine ran cleaner but the power wasn't there. The culprit was ultimately the clutch, which we were able to smell on the last few pulls. The sparkling dust in the air was also another sign it was done.
I'm not exactly sure why the clutch failed. I'll have to pull it out and see if oil got on it somehow or if something else went wrong. This is a twin disc from a place called Clutch Dynamics in Michigan. It's supposed to be comparable to a McLeod RST. I can only speculate at this point until I take it apart to see for sure.
The other issue we had was with fuel pressure. The pressure was dropping as the boost was increasing. My electronic regulator acts as the controller for the pump. It uses the fuel return rate to determine the required voltage at the pump. I disconnected the electronics from the regulator, which allows to pump to run at full voltage constantly. We made another pull and the pressure increased as it should. Something is up with the electronic regulator. I need to call Fuelab about that to see what the problem might be.
The good news is that the engine is running incredibly strong, and sounds like an absolute animal. There's at least 800hp there, but it's not getting to the tires thanks to the clutch. I guess once you start making these big power numbers, there is no weak link that is able to hide anymore. It's going to be a busy winter...
Here's a video of one of the pulls. Listen to the rpms varying slightly at the top end.
View: https://youtu.be/Vu7s-wrhQFs
I'm not exactly sure why the clutch failed. I'll have to pull it out and see if oil got on it somehow or if something else went wrong. This is a twin disc from a place called Clutch Dynamics in Michigan. It's supposed to be comparable to a McLeod RST. I can only speculate at this point until I take it apart to see for sure.
The other issue we had was with fuel pressure. The pressure was dropping as the boost was increasing. My electronic regulator acts as the controller for the pump. It uses the fuel return rate to determine the required voltage at the pump. I disconnected the electronics from the regulator, which allows to pump to run at full voltage constantly. We made another pull and the pressure increased as it should. Something is up with the electronic regulator. I need to call Fuelab about that to see what the problem might be.
The good news is that the engine is running incredibly strong, and sounds like an absolute animal. There's at least 800hp there, but it's not getting to the tires thanks to the clutch. I guess once you start making these big power numbers, there is no weak link that is able to hide anymore. It's going to be a busy winter...
Here's a video of one of the pulls. Listen to the rpms varying slightly at the top end.
View: https://youtu.be/Vu7s-wrhQFs
Sounds mean, and yeah, the more power the more issues will appear. But please, for the love of all things holy, DO NOT convert to auto! Just put in a good clutch and leave it be around 700 and enjoy it (easy to say from a keyboard I know)...
No no. Not going auto. I enjoy driving stick too much to put an auto in the car. I want the car to make great power, but I'm not trying to win drag races with it.
skyline247
Advanced Member
I love this car. Hope you get your issues sorted out.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Awesome pal. Sorry for the set backs but as we all no that's the name of the game . I'm glad the engine is strong though and running good
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
As much as I don't care for the spec stage 3+ in my car it has help the power to the tune of the "fridge dyno" run of 954 rwhp.
Sucks that you killed that twin disk already.
Keep at it man, your car is flat awesome.
Sucks that you killed that twin disk already.
Keep at it man, your car is flat awesome.
Got these pictures from Clutch Dynamics today. The twin disc is shipping tomorrow.
Went back and dug up the clutch post, you could go a couple ways with it, either more aggressive disc material to replace the organic disc with and the same base pressure, or jack the base pressure up and keep the forgiving disc. Since you are not going to be drag racing or powershifting the car, id say stick with the organic material, and go up on the base pressure. I think what you had shows the guy who you bought the clutch from put some thought into your combination and didnt give you something too aggressive. It's better to creep up on the clutch and let it slip on you than be too aggressive and let the power destroy something else on the driveline. Id drive it and see if it slips when it isnt on the dyno.
I took the car for a spin last night. The clutch was actually chattering a bit and it's never done that before. I wasn't able to replicate any kind of decent load on the drive train because the roads are pretty cold around here now. As soon as the boost stated coming on, I was spinning and hitting redline. I'm going to pull the trans and the clutch to see what everything looks like. Increasing the pressure plate pressure is a good idea. Once I get it apart, I'm going to give clutch dynamics a call and see what he recommends.
I wish I took a picture of the dyno graph. The clutch seemed to hold up until the 650ft lb mark. That's where the torque curve leveled out and then got wavy.
I could definitely hear it slipping on the dyno, it wasnt terrible though, it was trying to hold, when you really drive thru it, the motor will be on the limiter before you can realize what is happening. With your combination, the dyno is going to put way more of a load on it than you ever will on the street.
You're definitely right about that. I still want the clutch to hold on the dyno though.
Now that I think about it, I never broke the clutch in. It was literally brand new the first time it went on the dyno a few months ago. There was clutch dust all over the car after that dyno session and I just figured that was from the clutch breaking in on the dyno. Maybe that was not a good thing and the clutch was doomed from the beginning. I guess I'll know when I drop the trans.
Now that I think about it, I never broke the clutch in. It was literally brand new the first time it went on the dyno a few months ago. There was clutch dust all over the car after that dyno session and I just figured that was from the clutch breaking in on the dyno. Maybe that was not a good thing and the clutch was doomed from the beginning. I guess I'll know when I drop the trans.
Dropped the transmission today and pulled the clutch out. When I unbolted the trans from the bellhousing I saw oil weeping down the face of the bellhousing. Not purple transmission oil, not motor oil, but an oil that didn't really smell like anything.
I get the trans out of the way and start poking around the bellhousing with a flashlight. Staring me in the face is a TOB that is soaked in its own grease. The bellhousing comes off and the inside is sparkling with clutch material. I wipe a rag around the inside of the bellhousing and it's slightly wet with a mix of oil and clutch dust.
I start taking apart the clutch and the pressure plate has a nice film of oil around the inside lip. It also has a beautiful collection of hot spots. The floating plate looks just as colorful.
Here are some pictures of everything.
It's my understanding that the TOB is meant for constant velocity, so there should be some preload on the fingers of the pressure plate. I think my issue is that there wasn't enough preload and the TOB was barely coming in contact with the fingers, which created excessive heat turning the grease into oil that scattered all over everything. Not good, as you can see.
The transmission is fine. No issues there. In going to call clutch dynamics this week and see what I can salvage. I'm sure the clutch discs are wall ornaments at this point, but hopefully the pressure plate, floater, and flywheel can be turned and used again. I'm also going to be swapping in a T56 Magnum over the winter, so the modified TKO will be up for grabs. Tell yo friends! It's purdy.
I get the trans out of the way and start poking around the bellhousing with a flashlight. Staring me in the face is a TOB that is soaked in its own grease. The bellhousing comes off and the inside is sparkling with clutch material. I wipe a rag around the inside of the bellhousing and it's slightly wet with a mix of oil and clutch dust.
I start taking apart the clutch and the pressure plate has a nice film of oil around the inside lip. It also has a beautiful collection of hot spots. The floating plate looks just as colorful.
Here are some pictures of everything.
It's my understanding that the TOB is meant for constant velocity, so there should be some preload on the fingers of the pressure plate. I think my issue is that there wasn't enough preload and the TOB was barely coming in contact with the fingers, which created excessive heat turning the grease into oil that scattered all over everything. Not good, as you can see.
The transmission is fine. No issues there. In going to call clutch dynamics this week and see what I can salvage. I'm sure the clutch discs are wall ornaments at this point, but hopefully the pressure plate, floater, and flywheel can be turned and used again. I'm also going to be swapping in a T56 Magnum over the winter, so the modified TKO will be up for grabs. Tell yo friends! It's purdy.
Love my T56 magnum, wide ratio with 4.10 are perfect for the street! I was nervous about the 4.10's but turns out its an awesome ratio 2.97 1st and .50 6th. Super fun and not too much shifting in town if you know what I mean - and perfect on the highway
American Powertrain will also custom mix and match gears between the narrow 2.66 and wide 2.97 if you desire too. (I stayed with stock wide ratio)
In case you havent seen it, Gear Ratio Calculator
Sorry about the TOB, hopefully its just surface glazing and you're be able to just turn em ...
American Powertrain will also custom mix and match gears between the narrow 2.66 and wide 2.97 if you desire too. (I stayed with stock wide ratio)
In case you havent seen it, Gear Ratio Calculator
Sorry about the TOB, hopefully its just surface glazing and you're be able to just turn em ...
Glad you like yours. I haven't talked to anyone that doesn't love it.
I actually already bought a 2.66 ratio trans. Because of my 3.27 rear end gears, I was going back and forth between wide and close ratios, but it seems many of the turbo guys prefer the short ratio even with the tall rear gears. If I dragged the car, I probably would have opted for the 2.97, but on the street I think I'll like the taller first gear. With the 3.27 first in the TKO 500 now, first gear is useless as soon as the boost comes on.
