Progress Thread What To Do With My Frankenstein

I have a 302 that runs well. Is it possible to install a 347 stroker in our cars without modifying anything in the block. In other words doing it at home.

This kit seems to come with all new bearing and it's already balanced. Is this as straight forward to install in our cars as I think? Will the stock pulleys bolt back on? Any interferences in the block? Have you installed another kit?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-94165BE/10002/-1

I think that should keep me busy all winter. (When the kids aren't.)
 
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I have a 302 that runs well. Is it possible to install a 347 stroker in our cars without modifying anything in the block. In other words doing it at home.
No. The block will need to be bored out and notched for connecting rod clearance by a machine shop.

This kit seems to come with all new bearing and it's already balanced. Is this as straight forward to install in our cars as I think? Will the stock pulleys bolt back on? Any interferences in the block?
A 347 stroker kit doesn't affect anything outside of the block unless the pistons are going to cause piston-to-valve clearance issues. You will need to verify that the flywheel on your 302 is of the 28oz variety before installing the stroker engine (which it probably is).

I think that should keep me busy all winter. (When the kids aren't.)
Yup.
 
Notching the block sounds like something I'm not doing at home. That completely changes the job for me.

I'm about to order the true trac locker differential. I have a spear differential, so I can start assembling / rebuilding it right away.

Here are the parts I plan on ordering with it:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/rat-358k

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-740801

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-730001

Anything else I should order? I have to pay shipping to Canada, so I want everything in one box.
 
A quick overview of the parts that I am leaning toward right now are:

Procomp head
Procomp intake manifold
Headers (If I have to)
Getting the headers to fit my side pipes or new exhaust out the back. (Side pipes are cool, but are right under the windows and they stink up the car.)

OR

Strocker kit under stock heads.

Thats pretty much all I can stomach for this winter $$ wise. I'll probably try and dyno it this weekend to have an idea of what it's like now.
 
A quick overview of the parts that I am leaning toward right now are:

Procomp head
Procomp intake manifold
Headers (If I have to)
Getting the headers to fit my side pipes or new exhaust out the back. (Side pipes are cool, but are right under the windows and they stink up the car.)

OR

Strocker kit under stock heads.

Thats pretty much all I can stomach for this winter $$ wise. I'll probably try and dyno it this weekend to have an idea of what it's like now.

If you have headers, you're good there. There's not but a few headers still being made for IIs, and Heddmans are the only ones that are affordable. Sometimes a used set of Blackjack/Dynomax headers shows up on Ebay, and I still kick myself for selling my set of them.

Procomp's intake manifolds are fine. They're bad Chinese copies of Edelbrock designs, but that said, they clean up well, don't flow that much worse, and look good. Their heads, not so much. Google "Procomp 302 heads" and you'll find threads across all of the various Ford forums talking about how they're marginally better than stock heads from a power perspective, bad valve grinds, bad valve guides, etc. One guy even spent enough money trying to fix his ProComps that he ended up within $200 of the AFR heads he ended up replacing them with.

A stroker kit under the stock heads will make some more power, and would be a decent enough starting point. The only problem here is that you'll be giving the engine an extra 45cid of displacement with no improvement in airflow on either end, so you won't get the full benefit immediately, but it'll be a good foundation for future mods.
 
Been pretty busy all week, but here's my 2 cents.

I'd buy the heads first and make sure they'll support a 347 when you want to get into it down the road. The reason being that you don't necessarily have to tear the car completely apart and can enjoy it after winter this year. Building a stroker and installing stock heads just to tear it down and install heads later seems like a waste of time to me compared to installing heads then tearing down for a complete rebuild and re-installing your "new" heads. Besides, I'm sure if you stroke it and use the stock heads, you'll be fairly disappointed in all the work you've done because you expected more. The stock heads are going to choke the extra cubes as they do with the 351's. Again, just my opinion and what I would do, take it for what it's worth.....

As for the Pro Comp heads and intake: I know nothing about the heads, but have read a few different forums about their quality being crap. I suppose if you're a machinist and don't mind setting up and re-working new heads you probably wouldn't have a problem. But for the "novice" I would recommend something a little more "name brand" if you will. AFR's are a good head from what I understand if you choose to go with them. The things to look at are spring specs (so you know if you'll have to replace them for your application), cracking (especially in the combustion area), and if the owner doesn't mind you trying this, you can fill the ports with a liquid of some sort and check the valve seal to the seat. Take some feeler gage with you and check the valve seat with it before getting water or something. A flat edge like a steel ruler to check the mating surface for flatness is a good idea. Those are the highlights of what I can think of right now and should give you a good idea if it's a good buy or not. The Pro Comp intake isn't a bad piece from what I can tell. I have the Eddy RPM Air-gap knock-off and started a thread here to give everyone an idea of what it's like. I did a little work to it and I like it a lot compared to what I had. It's currently on the second page of threads, but here is a link to it: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/pro-comp-24026-intake-manifold.883603/

And again, my personal opinion that I'm going to voice: sidepipes only belong on Shelby Cobras or mid-60s Vettes. Pretty much everything else they just look like crap. I'd keep the exhaust under the car and exit the back if you can manage it. I think you would probably be happier both with the aesthetics and not having the sound right at your left ear all the time. Again, just my opinion, take it for what it's worth as well.....

As for your shopping list, I think that includes everything except lube. Be sure you have a dial indicator, a depth micrometer would be a great idea, and if memory serves you will probably need something to measure your depth from that spans the overall distance of the housing for the depth mic. This is for setting your pinion depth. You will need either a crush sleeve or a spacer as was mentioned earlier to tighten the yoke to spec. Again, if memory serves, either the 9" or 8.8 crush sleeves work for the 8". I may be totally wrong, it's been a few years and a head injury since I've tackled mine. :) But if you go by the article that I linked to before, you shouldn't have any problems getting it done.
 
I have a good idea what to do with my drivetrain to make this thing rly fun now.

Lets talk handling.

My stang is a little sprigny and need new and or better shocks. Bushings were upgraded by previous owner and there is very little wheel hop. Here are my objectives:

-Have this car handle as best it can without redesigning the suspension to independant rear suspension.

-Get as much traction as I can to the back wheels. Perhaps even getting bigger tires to fit.

I'm reading good things about the front coilover swap. Have you tried it?

Would swapping the leaf springs to a coil make a big difference for handling? (Keeping existing axles, but custom making everything else)

I'm happy with my cars stance. I'm reading posts about people suggesting a monroe air shock. I thought air shocks were not that great for handling, just practical for hight adjustment?

I'm having a hard time understanding how the physics are different in the rear suspension of a foxbody coil spring design vs the leaf spring design in our 2s. I know the whole axle body can twist in ours, but I wonder if an upper and lower arm attached close to where the leaf spring attaches to the body could eliminate that 100%?

I saw this thing: http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

I was wondering if the axle assembly turning inside the u-bolts might be an issue. Has anyone tried this?

Stumpy sub frame connectors will be added. They have too many good reviews to be left out.
 
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Here is a link to Alcino's car in action. He built his car for autocross (if memory serves) and runs great! His car has been featured in Popular Hot Rodding because of how well it handles. You can do a search for Alcino on this site and find a general idea of what he has done to the car - I don't remember what the PHR article has to say.....

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/track-day-video.740128/#post-7383669

There is also a link on the .net site concerning front springs. The short story is if you want to handle, the front springs need to be a little beefier. The original units are pretty soft to give it a "luxurious" feel which is what they were going for back in the day.

http://mustangii.net/stifferfrontsprings_faq.asp

As far as the physics of the 2 different suspension set-ups, I'm not sure I can verbalize it. I think I am going to relate it to how the driveshaft engages the diff. In the control arm set up when the axle travels up and down, like when you hit a bump, the axle *should* remain horizontal to the ground throughout it's travel. The leaf spring setup can basically travel in an arc. Also, the control arms, if done correctly, can help keep the axle located longitudely(sp?). The leaf spring set up, it can move unless you were to install a panhard bar. This is what Ford did with the 05 and up Mustang's to prolong the life of the solid axle before finally moving on to the IRS, although it was using a control arm set up. Regardless, you will want to keep your axle planted firmly under the car for handling purposes and panhard bars help do that.

Handling characteristics depend on a lot of different factors: center of gravity, spring rates, tire sizes and compounds, vehicle weight, weight distribution, etc etc etc. Look to balance the weight front to back the best you can, i.e. relocate the battery to the trunk. Remove weight from the front by installing aluminum heads and intake. Lower your car - there's a reason race cars sit so low. Widen the tires on all four corners to increase the contact patch. Raise your spring rates so the car doesn't produce as much body roll. Locate the axle, again to control the body. There is so much you can do without having to try and engineer a rear suspension in your car. Alcino's car is a great example!! If you haven't gone through his PHR article, you should!
 
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Or the dyno calibrator did something wrong. :-( Seriously that's a nice flat torque curve that comes on fast. Pretty nice power at the wheels. Since you were considering bolt-ons earlier, and long-tubes, I think you'll only mess with the fairly impressive power and nice curve you're making now and maybe even go backwards.

The combo you have now is pretty solid, or you have a stroker already, to be putting down those numbers (especially if those are stock heads). Me, personally, I'd leave well enough alone considering what you now know. Or go forced induction if you're looking for serious gains.
 
Sorry, been busy all week - but I'd go for it! Seems that is the exact kit I was eyeballing for mine. IIRC, there is a post about superchargers and the pros and cons for the different models in the Fox Body forums if you're interested in looking it up....