1982 Mustang 5.0 unusual wide body looks like a McLaren kit

What kit would this have been? According to the VIN it is a 1982 Ford Mustang 5.0 5 speed Black leather seats
It looks like a M81 McLaren Kit but it has no other badging.

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Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

Decided to make a brand new thread to document my build. The old thread began in 2008, and had amassed over 3K posts and 430K views at this posting in late 2020. Please hit the WATCH button in the top right corner to subscribe to this thread

That thread can be found here.

Summation of that 12-year thread is detailing the mods I've made to my 1988 Mustang LX, which I purchased in 1997 with approx. ~45K miles and drove in High School. I've been fortunately to be able to hang onto the car, and in 2008 I was able to begin modifying it.

SOme of the topics covered in that 2008-2020 thread are:
5-spd conversion
SN95 disk brake conversion with multiple brake setups
SN95 interior seating
Restoration and addition of Recaro seats,
03-04 Cobra steering rack
Maximum motorsports coil-overs and other components
Install of 93 Premium CD player
….and many many more topics.

The final stage of the thread were a tear down and rebuild of my engine from a stock shortblock, with the addition of a K-member, some frame repair and other goodies. That takes us to now. In the beginning stages, of putting it all back together.

Enjoy

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Alright gang, built Dart or Coyote?

Pros and Cons? A Dart longblock from ZSR or Fordstrokers is 11k. A takeout Coyote can be anywhere from 3.5-8k +. In my situation with the Dart, I drop it right in and literally buy nothing. The coyote,the engine install is fairly simple,but the wiring,hydroboost,etc is time consuming. If you were in a position to do this ,which direction would you go and why?
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Internally or externally balanced: how to tell?

2001 V6 5 speed. Ordered a new flywheel and Stage 2 Kevlar clutch from Spec. They didn’t ask if the old flywheel had balance weights; how would I know if I hadn’t already taken it apart before ordering?

I didn’t know to inspect the old one for weights, and like an idiot, I got rid of the old one before starting the car with the new one. It has a significant vibration that wasn’t there before. Spec says I’ll have to pull it apart; if the new one has a weight, take it off. If it doesn’t, you need to add one.

I’m not looking forward to pulling it apart again and then crossing my fingers that removing or adding a weight will fix it.

Can it be determined from the engine serial number if it’s internally or externally balanced?

Foxbody Idle issues

I have a 1991 Lx 5.0 with a AOD transmission.
My Idle issues is whenever I start the car it’ll idle fine. Once I start driving and come to a stop the car will stay in an accelerating feeling. The rpm’s are suppose to drop at 800-900 idle, it’ll stay at 1200rpm at a light/stop sign. If I put the car in park the idle will hang at 1200rpm…Once I kill it and restart it’ll idle fine at 800rpm. Sometimes it won’t do this and idle / drive fine. Randomly the car will revv by itself and drive with me on the brakes. I have a newer IAC from oreillys on there now.
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88gt swap into 1993 4 cylinder

I have a 1988 gt donar mustang that I want to take the motor and transmission out of and swap into my 1993 mustang 4 cylinder. The donar car runs and drives but is rusted at the frame and strut towers beond repair. I am confident I know everything about the mehcanical side of the swap however the wiring is confusing. I want to work with what I have and not spend money on a new computer/harness. It looks like I need a 1993 v8 engine harness but I dont want to convert it all to mass air because then I would need a new computer and I don't have the funds for that. All that being said how do I make the 1988 speed denisty motor work with the 1993 mass air harness without changing the computer or converting the 88 harness to mass air.

Foxtoberfest 2023

Foxtoberfest is coming up October 10th through the 14th in Charlotte, NC. Last year there were over 700 Foxes in the show. Plenty to see. If you can make it, you will not be disappointed. I'll definitely be there!

I just booked my room at the Embassy Suites, which is the host hotel again. Used the hotel booking link (for special pricing) on the hotels tab at the site below and got a really good rate, imo. Got a better room rate this year, than I did last year when I stayed at Residence Inn. And Embassy Suites is a much nicer place to stay. I'm guessing that's cause I didn't get a Foxtoberfest discounted rate in 2022.

And the car show has been expanded this year to 2 days, Friday and Saturday. Looking forward to that. Plus they have stuff going on earlier in the week. Last year, on the way out of town, we went by The Mustang Owner's Museum, cause seeing 700+ Stangs just isn't enough, I guess. ;)

Anybody else heading there??

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Event Information! Ozarks International Raceway (OIR) Track Weekend July 29-30, 2023

MVP Track Time Ozarks International Raceway (OIR) July 29-30, 2023 Track Event



Hi All:

MVP Track Time’s Ozarks International Raceway (OIR) track event is set for July 29-30, 2023 at OIR. I hope you’ll join us for the on-track fun.



MVP’s goal remains the same since we began in 2006, offering you more actual track time at each event for less money. Our run-group format offers you maximum driving time (2+ hours of scheduled daily track time) instead of standing around the paddock and paying outrageous entry fees.

Registration for OIR is available on-line with Pay Pal (you can use any major credit card through the Pay Pal system) at the link below:



On-Line Registration: http://www.mvptracktime.com/id92.html




Please feel free to join us at OIR in July for the on-track fun. All courteous, considerate, safe drivers are invited and welcome. Please, don’t hesitate to contact me if you have questions.

I’ll see you at OIR. Happy Motoring!

Mark Pfeffer – MVP Track Time
www.MVPTrackTime.com
Phone: (314)249-3770
E-mail: [email protected]

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Engine 97 mustang gt manual weird idol when off the throttle and coasting in 3rd, 4th, or 5th

Hello coming to ask for some possible causes for my problem before I keep throwing money at things that don't fix it.

The problem I'm having just started recently after my father had to drive my car but before he drove it this had never happened the problem is when ever I'm driving in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear, never happens in 1st or 2nd gear, and I let go of the throttle for about 5 seconds to coast the car starts idling weird only really happens between 2000 and 1500 rpms. When I keep coasting with no throttle and let it drop while its doing this and it hits 1500 rpms it goes back to normal and doesn't sound weird. If I touch the throttle while still in gear the problem stops till I let off the throttle for another 5ish seconds, but if I don't hit the throttle and disengage the clutch the rpms drop to about 600-700 rmps and slowly climb back to idol, and I has little throttle response the first time I touch the throttle after this happens until I hit the throttle once or it returns to normal idol, I'll add a video showing it here you can hear it right at 4 seconds in the video where the pitch and sound from the exhaust changes.


I hope you could hear what I'm referring to, and at the end of the video you can see I push in my clutch and my engine drops to a low idol very fast, and if I where to hit the throttle at all at that point it would have very little response, most of the time if I'm trying down shifting when its doing this I have to hit the throttle twice for it to hold any rpms when i come off the throttle with the clutch disengaged and not just drop to idol.

So far the things I've done to try to fix this is clean my maf, iac, tps, make sure there's no vacuum leaks, changes my ignition wires, checked all my spark plugs to make sure there firing, and changed my fuel filter, and checked my injectors to make sure there clean. I recent did a full gasket rebuild with every single gasket being new including the head gaskets being replaced about 3000 miles ago, so I don't believe any should be acting up yet but I have no clue what could be causing this.

My car also takes longer to start up when its cold ill add a video of before and after the problem started, also my only check engine light is for the egr not being there at all already sealed the mating surface on the throttle body and sealed the exhaust

before,


after,


Both starts where on a cold engine and I'm not sure what could be causing this with the things I've fixed, it also has a weird idol now when its warm it sounds like it has a cam in it or something, I'll add the videos here of the idol before and after the problem started,

before,


after,


I'll also attach some live data showing what's happening when my car starts doing this, also in the live data my tps sits at 16% open when I'm off the throttle entirely its always sat like that even before the problem started,

In this first one it just shows a short clip of me letting off the throttle and you can see the rpms start to drop quicker after about 4 to 5 second of me being off the throttle with the clutch engaged, and you can see me hit the throttle twice for it to hold any rpms with my clutch in, then you can see my rpms just crash at the end when I push the clutch back in and disengaged it,




Then for this live data its more info on the other things I think would effect this problem and again you can see when I'm off the throttle and my tps reads 16% again after a few second the problem starts and I push in the clutch right away so the rpms would drop as a marker as right when the problem started,



Hopefully you guys are able to make sense of this more than I am, I've searched through my Hanes manual trying to find a cause for my problem but I haven't been able to. It doesn't blow smoke and my coolant and oil levels don't drop at all at least as far as I can tell by eye. There's no lack of power the only times the throttle doesn't respond well is right after the problem the first time I hit the throttle its slow but as long as I don't coast in gear the throttle response wont be bad it can idol for as long as I've tested and still have good throttle response. Hoping to hear from you guys any questions you have please feel free to ask them I'll gladly answer them. Thank you for reading this.

Need some help - 4 banger fox and a 94 SN95 GT donor car

Ok guys so I couldn't find this exact subject anywhere. I have an 88 4 cylinder (auto) fox that I inherited from my grandmother. It's been sitting for over 10 years and I have finally gotten some motivation to do something with it.

I picked up a 94 GT (manual) donor car (complete but engine has blown head gaskets) for $800. I want to swap the drivetrain, brakes, suspension and all over to the fox and I have zero clue where to start.

Anyone have a write up on what's needed for this? I see plenty of write ups for 4-8 swaps but they are all about swapping a 93 and down 5.0. I'm also swapping from a auto to a manual. Of course this is a very sentimental project for me and I plan on keeping this car in the family. I would like to push about 300HP when the project is completed.

Fuel pressure specs and does the EEC change the amount of fuel the engine needs?

Still working on my Dad's 1965 Mustang with a 5.0 and a 1989 top end and harness.

It's very close to working, but I have a symptom that I want to rule out fuel pressure as a cause. When the car is running, it's sitting solid at 30psi . I thought I had more like 40 psi in my previous thread. The OTC pressure gauge shows 30 now. If I rev it it moves up to 32-33psi. It starts fine and runs. As it warms up, it begins to run a little rough and it will then shut off. If I turn the key, it primes and starts right up. It may seem to run for for a few minutes or even more, but will shot down again. The fuel pressure does not drop when it gets rough and stalls.

Is the fuel pressure too low, or does it depend on the fuel injectors installed? They came with the parts from the donor car. We did have them "rebuilt". I don't know what is involved in an injector clean and build.

When the car does stall, the fuel pressure rather quickly drops. I thought modern fuel pumps had a back flow valves in them , so the pressure should hold steady.

Fox Help on how to repair valvetrain. Damaged valve.

I have a 302 with very old cylinder heads on it. They are still using the cast iron rockers. I have a damaged exhaust valve and I'm not quite sure what happened to it.
The following is the damage to it:
-Bent pushrod
-Bent rocker stud
-Worn rocker tip
-Hammered and mushroomed valve stem
I removed the valve spring and the valve moves freely up and down.

I have little information about this engine.
The car sat in a field for 21 years. I was able to make it run and drive it out. I did make sure all valves were free before I attempted to rotate the engine after it sat.

Based on the fact that the valve is worn and mushroomed over, I imagine this was going on for a while when it was still being driven. Sparkplug looks excellent.
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Fox and SN Clutch Cable Comparison

This is the cable I just got from CJ Pony Parts. It is [not] a match for the OEM cable they advertise on their site, however, it appears to me to have a lot of the desired characteristics.

Overall:
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Quadrant End Swedge
High Thread Count Cable
Yes, most of us will have to break the plastic mount off of the end
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Just showing where this bracket starts and stops
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Cable Shield Location
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Fork End Swedge

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Closer shot of quadrant end swedge and cable core
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My initial impressions:

This appears to be a well-built cable. The cable itself is the type of braid that uses a larger number of small strands versus a small number of large strands.
The swedges on each end are the enclosed type versus the "fish weight" style you see on cheap cables. They do not appear to be like the kind that just [pop off] at a traffic light and rust from the inside out.

What I cannot see:

I don't know what kind of liner this cable has inside of the spiral metal casing. Without cutting it open, there's no way to tell if it is lined like the OEM style cable housing or if it's just the metal rib like we see on cheap Chinese cables and adjustable.
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Black /orange wire

I have another issue different car, it’s a 89 coupe 5.0 and I have a wire that’s comming from the firewall drivers side . It’s a black/orange stripe and it’s a thin one. I know it’s a ground cuz it light up with test light. I just need to know which way to look. Was it cut from inside and pulled thro the firewall and left or did they cut it and the other half in engine bay. I looked wires towards fuse links/solonid & don’t see that color wire. It’s close to a blue fuse link but it looks like it has both side but it does look funny. Does that blue fuse link connect a 3 way type way? The car runs a bit lean 16 on afr. O codes are 29,31,67,95 &10 in the last pic I see something that has a hole it seems like that wire might’ve popped out from there it goes to the fuse link but I think both sides of fuse link are blue or one black side and the other blue but it has a spot that has a hole and don’t want to put it in there and something happens so I don’t think I have a blown fuse link but I think this wire goes to them . Any imput gentleman? I’d greatly appreciate it

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Help with tire and fender gap difference all around

Can anyone help me identify the potential problem as to why my tire to fender gap ration is different on all sides. I will mention that this was backed into on the front clip of the driver side, but i cant remember noticing the gaps being diffrent on all sides, has anyone dealt with this issue before?

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Help, Mustang Not Starting (Fuel Pump Issue?)

Hello,

I have a 2003 Mustang GT Auto, it’s been sitting for about a year, tried to start it but the battery was low/dead, it did start for a few seconds but then died, I think the gas might be bad, I did fire it up about a couple months ago, it ran but was just struggling with the bad fuel.

Tried to jump start it and it’s not getting any fuel, I disconnected the fuel line at the engine and no fuel is being pumped, nor can I hear the pump when the key is in run, the fuse is okay for the fuel pump. I also checked the inertia switch and the button is down.

When in run, the theft light turns off but the service engine soon light is on, I connected my code reader but it says there are no active codes.

What is the problem?

I heard there might be some sort of relay/module soldered in the wheel well of the passenger side or a different fuel module in the trunk? How do I go about checking those? Or should I be checking something else first? Or is there an easy way to see what is wrong?

Resolved 5.4 4v - 03 GT - LOW TPS Voltage

Bare with me, its a story.

Brothers car. A Frankenstein build

Initially a budget build, but I told my brother, the cheaper you go, the more problems. Taddaaa - here I am in his behalf.

2003 Mustang GT
2003 GT PCM
5.4 4v swapped Navigator engine.
SCT handheld tuner - with GT style tune

Car was running good initially with karkraft intake spacers with 99 Cobra Intake Manifold.

Then more parts came. and so did the problems.

MMR intake spacers
5.0 Coyote Velocity Intake Manifold
1993 year 5.0 style - 90mm Accufab Intake Plenum
Appropriate spacers to make it all work.

Notching the slots for the 99-04 style TPS sensor, I was once able to get it in the KOEO closed throttle 0.90v range but the sensor was not a direct fit to the 1993 Accufab mounting points, so it wouldn't stay within range because of the circular mounting lip elevating sensor from plenum.

Fast forward, we instead opted to get a 1993 style TPS sensor since it would theoretically mate up perfectly. Matched wires from 93 sensor to 99-04 harness and crimped them down for now.

Went online, found forums on TPS over the past 15 years. Nothing matched my scenario, or if it was close, the OP never posted results or ignored the community on advice.

So I took my FLUKE Voltmeter and started at it. Fast learner - here I go.

The issues:
Surging idle, RPM's would rise as the temperature of the car would rise. ~1,100 through ~2,200 rpms.
If I disconnect the IAC, absolutely nothing happens to the idle.
The MAF is an 2001 style MAF; so no integrated IAT.
&
The IAT is currently missing and plan to add that this weekend. PID's show this sensor at 100 degrees constantly in the SCT handheld scanner.

KOEO
TPS - 93' 5.0 'Standard' brand

Signal Wire (red probe) / White/Grey Ground Wire (black probe)
Closed: -0.252v
WOT: -1.600v maximum
yes, increases from low value to WOT value at good rate
Question: Why negative values & Why is it soo low?

KOEO

5v Reference -
Brown/white (red probe) / white/grey (black probe) = 4.779v
Brown/white (red probe) / Accufab Plenum = 5.036v
Brown/white (red probe) / Shock tower ground = 5.040v

without key - engine off
Resistance test
Brown/white (red probe) / negative battery terminal while connected = 2.626
Brown/white (red probe) / negative battery with terminal disconnected = 0.846


This realm of car electronics is new to me, please critique and help me figure this out.

94-04 Haynes Manual
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What an awesome community!

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