Brake light recall (22S02)

Hello, I’m having an issue getting reimbursed for the having to pay $400.00 to get brake lever replaced because of the plastic button deteriorated causing the brake light to stay on. At the time I had an issue Ford was not supplying the little plastic button so they had to replace the complete brake lever. Now I’m trying to get reimbursed now and Ford says that it is up to the dealer to reimburse me I’ve been working on this since June of this year with no refund. The dealership is telling me because the part number for the lever that I had replaced is not the part number that Ford has as the recall part number I’ve made several calls to Ford himself been to the dealer couple times keep getting accounting is working on it. Has anybody else been able to get reimbursed?

Whose beautiful lipstick red Virginia based '93 GT was this?

I found this lipstick red '93 GT for sale at some used 4×4 truck lot in Virgina and was curious if anyone knows who the precious owner is? It's a beautiful car, but when you look closer at it you notice it's has drums on the rear, the wrong tailpipes and some missing odds and ends. It's also a bit overpriced, in my opinion, at $36K. Oh, and it has 109k miles, not 9k. Thanks

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Motorsport Clutch Fork and Clutch Cable Kit M-7553-A302 ---Super Cheap

Was looking for a new clutch fork for my Coupe and found this kit on LMR but I always like to shop around and found it on Walmart's site for $26.95 from Blue Oval Industries. Checked their site and its not on there but the individual parts are. Anyhow, if anyone is needing either this is the cheapest you will find it.

Not sure why the URL is coming across as "Robot or human?" but the link works.
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Reactions: 1 user

Suggestion for camshaft. Help appreciated.

Hello all,

Beginning my first time build of a 347 stroker in a 66 Coupe. I will be running the Eagle stroker kit with flat top pistons, 030 over bore. Have AFR 185 heads and plan to get an edelbrock air gap intake. I want to stick around 9.5:1 compression ratio to still be able to run pump gas. Was looking for recommendations that will work well with my planned setup and have a decent idle as this will be more a street than strip build. I wouldnt really plan on going much over 6000rpm.

It is my understanding that most of the newer camshafts are steel and will require a new distributor gear to match that way they dont leave shavings, this the case?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.


hello, hi, how ya durrin

hi from montana
recently got a frost opal 95 gt 5.0 vert 5speed
just put a new mcleod clutch, pressure plate, ford racing throwout bearing, ford racing pilot bearing, clutch fork, pivot ball stud, resurfaced flywheel in her.

seems to have been garaged and only driven in nice weather its whole life as it has zero rust or corrosion underneath

have had 2 other mustangs in the past a 97 v6 auto and a 00 v6 5speed

cant wait to start upgrading things on it lots of helpful tech information here thanks for having me

Fuel Having issues getting my fuel pump to work.

When turning the key to 'ON' the fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds, then shut off....correct?
That doesn't happen. The only way to make it work is to jump power to pin #87 (Bosch style relay) and it'll run constantly. Doesn't build up fuel pressure 'cause there's no fuel in the tank. Just trying to get everything working before I fire it up for the first time.

Some context:
'93 5.0/AOD and wiring harness swapped into my '54 Customline. New Walbro pump installed in the '54 tank. Running factory fuel injection with ECU and all the factory wiring. No inertia switch. I'm using the large factory wiring diagrams for reference.
Wiring is:
#787 PK/BK from pin 30 to starter solenoid on inner fender.
#238 GRN/YEL from pin 87 to ECU and also to fuel pump.
#361 RD from pin 85 to ECU.
#926 BLU/ORG from pin 86 to ECU and also to data link connector.

With key 'ON', there's no power to #787 which makes sense 'cause the start solenoid contacts haven't closed to transfer power from one side to the other. However, when the key is ON shouldn't the ECU provide power to the relay to cycle the fuel pump? I can hear the ECU relay click on.
I've been fooling with this for days and have kinda hit a wall!

For Sale 1994/95 engine wiring harness and T4M0 computer

I am using a 1994 Mustang GT engine that I bought for a project. It came with the engine harness and I bought the computer side of the harness because I was going to use it.

I just bought a Painless engine wire harness and A9L computer so I no longer need the 1994 stuff.

It’s in Columbus Ohio but I’d be happy to ship it. It’s completely untested by me because I haven’t installed the engine.

I’d like $300 for all of it.


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For Sale V8 oil pan

Code reads 1992. Original 1992 Mustang oil pan for a 302 or 351. It looks like it had a repair at one time. It has had a screw in bung put in as it came off a turbo car. Asking $50 plus shipping. It is located in Leominster Massachusetts


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Digital Tuning Airbag Beeping after Holley Dash Install

New Install of a 7'' Holley Dash and now my Airbag is beeping at key on for about 5 cycles...I Located the Blue Airbag Module behind the Heater Control Knobs at the Top of the Center Console...A terrible place for this to be located for me because of the way my center console is configured with my Radio and the Terminator X ECU is in that location... Basically I can see it but cannot get to it without destroying the way my console is set up, and that is not an option....I am not concerned about the Airbag working or not...
1. So the question is, Can I disable power to the Airbag or the Chime, or both...
2. Is there a fuse that can be removed for the module that will disable the chime...
4. If so, what # is it in the fuse box...
3. Read in another Forum that you can ''Just take a socket and wire in a 194 bulb, (like what is in the cluster), Between pin 1 and pin 4"...that should stop the Beeping...

Please just help me figure out the easiest way to stop the Airbag from Beeping, when I power up the Holley 7'' Digital Dash...

Need help diagnosing the cause of this sound (2004 GT 4.6 Manual)

Hello guys I’m new to all of this this is really my first car so any help is appreciated, so there’s this unusual noise coming from the passenger side kind of in the engine bay it only happens when coming to a stop, sometimes it will happens when just idling or when the car is turning off, it goes away whenever I rev the car and it never happens while the car moving. It’s doesn’t happen every time but it will it do it ever so often. Again any help is appreciated :nice: Here’s a video of the sound

Interior and Upholstery Seatbelt issue

So I have a 96 vert with a hardtop the previous owner installed. When I got the car those rear panels in the back seat that house the stereo speakers we're not installed as well as the seat belt reels and retractors and for the life of me I can't figure out how the real and the retractor goes back on there's literally no threaded bolt holes where they will line up that I can find any help would be greatly appreciated as it looks like the seat belt hardware in a convertible is different than in a hardtop.

Interior and Upholstery Painting my plastic dash questions...

Going to paint my 83 ( blue ) dash black.. I thought about doing it in Graphite or very dark grey, but I want to keep it simple...
Its been 25 years since I did my Dodge parts and they came out very nice and still look like new...
#1 question.... It seems like I washed them with warmish water and dawn soap multiple times to remove any grease, dirt and Armor All.....
Again its been many years but I remember using some plastic prep ( spray can) to soften and prep the plastic.....
I want to say that I believe the paint store told me to just wipe the plastic down with lacquer thinner to prep it?? Has anyone done that????
#2.. Is the plastic paint ( like SEM) the best to use?? I see that Rust Oleum has some " plastic" paint also??
Whats every one used????
Thanks for any ideas here....

What's it Worth? 2014 California Special with Roush Phase 2 Kit

Hey all,

I’m more a chevy guy so I feel a bit out of place here and I have no idea what I am doing.

I’m trying to help my brother sell his mustang. I’m wondering if anybody here could give me an idea how to price it?

Car details:

  • 2014 California Special
  • 2 dr coupe
  • 98,000Km (61,000miles)
  • Automatic trans
  • Has a Roush phase 2 supercharger, professionally installed
  • Good condition – garage kept but was his daily driver, so it has a few minor scratches, typical interior wear etc….
  • Has headers and 4” straight pipes out the back.
  • Leather interior
  • Shaker sound system
Located in Calgary Canada.

If I’m forgetting any important details, please let me know. Any advice would be appreciated!