Drivetrain T5-Shifting Issue (5th gear to 4th)

I just completed my T5 swap and so far I am loving the new driveline. I installed a Hurst short throw shifter and Maximum Motorsports Clutch Cable w/firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant. At this time, I am having absolutely no issues with gears grinding. The only concern or issue I am having is (when driving) I can shift up through all gears perfectly but when coming down from 5th gear to 4th, it will not go in (no grinding), i have to put it into 3rd first and then I can go into 4th gear.

Anybody else dealt with this before?

I am able to shift down from 5th into any other gear. And when I’m stopped i can shift down to any gear as well. Could this be an issue with the clutch cable? Maybe i’m not fully disengaging the clutch? But why would every other gear allow it?

Cobra & Mach 1

I might have the option to purchase a 1993 Cobra or a 1969 Mach 1 soon. Little back story, about 19 years ago I met an older gentleman at work who trained me for a short while. After getting to know him he told me he had a little shop in town to work on his own cars and other projects. The shop was close to my parents house where I was living at the time so I would always swing by and see what he was up to. He was always a big Mustang guy and at the time he had a 1965 Mustang, 1968 Mustang Fast Back, 1969 Mustang Mach 1, 1993 Mustang Cobra, 2008 Mustang Bullitt and a few other projects.

He retired 8 years ago and had lost track of him. I never had his contact info and I would swing by his shop from time to time and it was always closed. Well yesterday I was in the area and drove by and he was there. I ended up spending about 2.5 hours there talking with him. He sold the 65 Mustang but still had the others and his wife has been talking about selling some of them. He said the Mach 1 and Cobra might be available for sale. Asked what he was looking to get for them but said he has to talk with his wife because they are her cars. They were anniversary gifts throughout the years.

The Cobra is currently at his sons house a few hours away. He told his son not long ago if someone offers him anywhere between $20k-$25K to sell it. He purchased the car brand new from the dealer. It's 100% all original and red in color with leather interior. It runs and drives without any issues and was unsure on the mileage, but I know it's low.

I can't remember if he purchased the Mach 1 new or used but I know he's owned it for a very long time. Has always been either garaged kept or in the shop and under a cover and rarely driven. Would only take it to car shows back in the day. It was there at the shop but he had it covered and had some stuff sitting on top so didn't get to get a real good look at it. But it's a 100% complete rust free car and the paint still looks great on it. He said it runs and drives still but one of the rear brakes isn't working for some reason and hasn't had a chance to look into it. It's also red on color with the yellow and white stripe down the bottom that says Mach 1. Not real sure which engine it has.

He's going to speak with his wife about them and see what she would like to get for them. Told me to give him a call in a couple of days or swing by the shop and will let me know what she says. Now the waiting game, I would love to pick up one of these cars if the price is right. It would have to be a great deal for me to justify spending that kind of money. The wife would stab me in the throat if not.
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n00b chasing a no-start on a 1982 Cougar wagon

Hi from a first time Fox owner, long time Ford owner.

I just bought a western 1982 Cougar wagon that's been swapped with an '89GT 302/T5. Fun, clean little car...and most importantly, free of the rust that is associated with buying an Ohio car.

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Anyway, it ran great for about a week, but now it won't start. Cranks and cranks and cranks, but nothing. Since then, I've been working through one of the Fox no-start checklists found here on the forums. I've ruled out a bunch of stuff already (distributor, coil, ignition switch, fuel pump, EEC, Anderson PMS) and can confirm that the car will fire up if I jump the EEC relay. The relay tests good and a new one was installed to confirm that it isn't the problem.

So, I'm guessing now that I've either got a short somewhere, or a fusible link may have failed. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


Anyway, aside from this Cougar, my stable consists of three Panther platform cars: 2003 Marauder, 2010 Crown Vic P7B, 1991 LTD Country Squire
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Made a small timing adjustment, now it won't start.

For the long back story of the car, click here:
Old Mustang with EEC troubleshooting

The above thread sort of stalled out when I had to take time off the project. I thought I was close to a proper running car when it blew a fuel line and my Dad had some new braided lines made. After removing the braided lines and getting new ones made the car was off for some weeks.I fired it up and we seemed to be back to square one. I'm back looking at it in another week and the car fired up and did not shut off after starting. Yay!, but the idle is not consistent and too low. I thought I would try a small turn of the distributor one way and the other to see if the timing was a little off. With the car running, I did that, listening for an idle improvement. I did not remove the SPOUT plug. Nothing seemed better and then the car died. It wouldn't fire up, so I removed the plug and kept moving the distributor a little and got it to fire once long enough to move a tiny amount and it died again. I gave up trying to find the sweet spot. I'm not moving it much at all so I can't be far off. Is there something I should have done before trying to adjust the timing on a car with around a 1989 top end that my 1965 Mustang knowledge just messed up?

T5 questions, replace vs rebuild

Wanted to get some of your guys opinions on the situation I’m in right now. So I have my foxbody, 1992 Mustang GT, at the shop right now getting the rear main seal replaced along with some other things. It grinds second and reverse and pops out of gear occasionally so I figured now was a good time to rebuild the tranny as well. I talked to the shop owner about it and asked him a ballpark and he told me the guy he has that he sends trannys to to get them rebuilt it’s usually around 5-600. He’s been having trouble reaching out to the guy but he finally got a price from him and he said he’s now charging 1150 and that includes labor and the usual parts that need replacing (my guy said that’s bearings and synchros). The shop owner recommended to me that we could just get a new world class t5 transmission which he told me is a more upgraded t5 than what I have right now and he could get one of those for 2 grand.

Now that I’m doing research on these “world class t5s” from what I’ve been reading I think my car already came with that from the factory. Could anyone clear this up for me?
Does anyone know anyone in the south Florida area that rebuilds transmissions so I could see if I could find someone that will do it for cheaper?

Spoiler tilt

searched but could not find any previous posts.

My 71 Mach1 has a rear spoiler and I have been told I should have it tilted differently. I was told at a car show I should have it tilted more down in the front. I had it only slightly tilted.

What are your thoughts. I tilted it and have attached pics.

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For Sale Megasquirt PnP 94-95 5.0 Mustang brand new in box Wideband and Computer/Software

Columbus Ohio. $800 obo. (Currently $870, to buy from manufacturer) Bought for my project but going to run factory ECU instead. New in box. Never been out of the bubble wrap. Might consider an A9L or similar as trade.

Also have for sale but not included Autometer Phantom wideband. New in box. $225 obo.

Also have a brand new inexpensive laptop with TunerStudio and MegaLog Viewer (with licenses) installed. $200 obo.

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Drivetrain Transmission output shaft seal

New Guy, I have 1977 II 2.3 Liter w/C3 Tranny, My situation maybe one of a kind or not. I just replace a leaking trans output seal but it still leaks. I installed the OEM seal that is recommended but still the problem exists is there a seal that has the spring installed that can fix tight around the shaft, that will stop and seal as required?
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92 foxbody Dash wiring

Hello I am new to the Forum, I have a 92 Foxbody that was giving to me to restore.. This car was setup for drag racing but I would like to make it a street car.. So my question is all the wiring harnesses and fuse panels were taking out so what would be the best route to wiring up all my accessories such as headlights, brake light etc... Thank you in advance

My new II

Hello all, I'm new to this site. I just picked up a super nice high performance 1978 Mustang Coupe 5 spd. This is my 3rd Mustang II. Previously owned a '77 Cobra II and a '78 King Cobra. I just love these cars. The Coupe is running a '71 302 balanced and blueprinted, 5 spd. Tremac and Auburn 3:55 rear. The guy I bought it from put all kinds of HP goodies into her. I just started getting a driveline vibration I'm having checked out tomorrow. I removed the rear spoiler and ordered a new front spoiler. I'm getting the Magnum 400 wheels I just can't decide 215 60 15 or 235 60 14.

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Just joined, 2001 Mustang GT convertible.

Hi all,
I recently bought a 2001 Gt convertible and it is in pretty good shape but needs some TLC in a few areas.
So far I have replaced the hydraulic cylinders for the convertible top, put a new top on it ( what a nightmare), replaced some weather stripping, had a new clutch and throw out bearing installed, removed the visors and took them to an upholstery shop to have them redone and bought a new grille cowl to replace the cracked one and the new one would not install correctly so I took it back out and checked it against the original one ( which broke into five pieces when I took it out) and the new one is 1 1/8 " longer than the original so I'm returning it and i bought another one from a different place and I'm hoping it is the right size. Anyone else have this problem? Also, when the convertible top is in the full open position the right side is higher than the left. It was like that before I put the new top on and I was hoping the new top would fix it but no such luck. Is this normal or do I need to adjust something?

Fox 87+ door panels screw help

Finally put my pass side door panel on this weekend. It has been off the car since I purchased it in April. There were no screws in it other than the main ones for the arm rest when I took it off. The drivers side does not have any either. I do have a bag of misc screws that was in the pile o parts that came with the car. Can someone tell me what the correct Philips screws are for the arm rest, as well as the lower speaker cover? Thanks guys...

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Engine How far can you go with an A9L (or other) factory computer?

I have a 94 GT engine that I'm going to use the stock cam with some 1.7 rockers, a pair of AFR 185 Enforcers and an Explorer manifold. What would I need to do to make these work with an A9L computer? I really don't plan on adding any other performance stuff in the future or I'd take the steep learning curve on a MegaSquirt. (I really don't want to do that.)

My plan is to get a Painless harness and A9L for the swap as I'm not running it in a Mustang. The reason for using the stock cam is to keep a stock-ish idle, which I prefer and the heads are there for the slight performance improvement AND the saved 40# off the front of the car.

This is not the typical "bigger is better" combo. Just a nice, reliable/tractable combo that I can enjoy driving every day.

Rear end sounds like marbles in a tin can.

I had a local shop replace the pinion seal and rear housing gasket on my 2001 GT. When I got it back everything seemed fine, no leaks or noise. It ran as usual.
The next day I took it on the interstate for about 10 miles to a shopping center. On the way back the rear end started howling like a bad ring and pinion. I was a few miles from home so I continued. Every time I let off the throttle the noise was worse and by the time I pulled in the driveway the rear sounded like a can full of marbles. I assume it is a pinion problem since under load there was no noise.
I suspect the mechanic did not put the pinion nut on far enough and lost the pinion preload.
I contacted the shop and they of course want to check it out.
My question is since the rear now sounds like bearings eating themselves what sort of damage are we likely to find. I will not be present when they take it apart and do not want them to under sell any damage in an attempt to minimize the repairs I'm sure they are going to be responsible for.
In addition what else could have caused such a failure in such a short period of time after such a basically simple repair? No gear lube is all I can think of.
Has anyone else suffered a failure like this? What did you do, repair or replace the entire rear? What sort of cost? I am preparing myself for the shop denying responsibility.

1969 clutch and flywheel

I bought a 1969 tribute Mach 1. The car came with a 4 speed and aluminum bellhousing but no engine. I purchased a remanufactured 351 Windsor out of a 1984 F150 that came with the flywheel and clutch. When I tried bolting this setup to the bellhousing that came with the mustang, the flywheel was to large for the bellhousing. It’s a 164 tooth flywheel and the bellhousing that came with the car is aluminum. From my research on this forum, the aluminum bellhousings are for 157 tooth flywheels. I had a cast iron bellhousing laying around from an earlier 351 Cleveland build, so I tried it. Bolted up fine but then I discovered the pressure plate would catch on the bellhousing at certain points. I just need someone to help me with purchasing the correct flywheel and clutch setup that will bolt right up to what I have. Also what starter will work with the final setup. Here’s exactly what I have.

1984 351 windsor
1965 aluminum bellhousing C5DA
1971 cast iron bellhousing D1TA
1984 164 tooth flywheel
1984 11” diaphragm clutch

Which flywheel and clutch should I buy to work with either the aluminum or cast iron bellhousing. I can use either one.

Idle hangs at 1500 after revving.

Hello,

I have a 91 LX with a 347 stroker HCI EFI and I have had the car dyno tuned in the past and had the same issue. I am having a problem where when I rev the rpm gets stuck at 1500 for a few seconds then drops down to normal 800-900 range. I unplugged the IAC and revved it and it does not get stuck. I have tried motorcraft IAC and aftermarket and they both act the same when plugged in. I was thinking of doing the base idle reset but do not know what else would cause this. Please help.
What an awesome community!

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