weird question but I bought the car with this exhaust setup, I wanted to know what type of setup it has because it don’t know the difference of pipes and all that stuff. The cats r deleted and has headers btw
I purchased this Windage tray screen and hardware several years ago for a motor that was being built for a 1994 Mustang, and I purchased the wrong one, so my loss is someone's gain. It has been sitting in my shop and was never installed, but has some minor pitting which can be cleaned up. This Windage Tray and hardware is selling for $161 on Summit Racing. I am asking $100 shipped ground to the lower 48 states. I accept PayPal, Venmo, Cash App or Zelle.
This is a brand new PAINLESS 60510 harness that I purchased a few years ago and was going to use in a 1994 Mustang, but ended up with a nice factory harness and computer instead so no longer need. This harness has never been out of the box. Not sure when PAINLESS changed the description of this harness to include 94 & 95, but you must still utilize a 1989-1993 MAF, Distributor and ECM from a 5.0 Mustang. This harness is currently selling for $515 on CJ Pony Parts and Summit Racing, I am asking $450 shipped ground to the lower 48 states. I accept PayPal, Venmo, Cash App or Zelle.
I can't seem to get the fingers to catch from the top piece that fits into the bottom " U " piece that surrounds the bushing...
Installing MM poly bushings into the stock oem brackets onto the stock front sway bar....
I am inserting the 2 fingers that go sideways and then trying to snap in the 2 fingers on the other side ( that point down) ......
A picture of the original bushing shows these 2 " downward" pointing fingers were actually pushing into the bushing when new, rather than sliding down the outside of the bushing.......
Nothing in the FSM to show any " special " instructions about these...
I did look at the LMR pics for these parts new and they show all 4 fingers pointing sideways?
Some pics attached..... What am I doing wrong? thanks..
So i have everything reinstalled and torqued after changing valve seals to include a visual check and magnet sweep. Is there anything else to check before putting valve covers back on like rotating the engine?
Guy, I'm new to the group. I have an 03 Torch red Mach 1 that I'm looking to supercharge. There is so much contradicting info out there. I was asking in another forum and was pointed to you folks. hoping for some answers. Thanks again for the add.
Looking to replace the door speakers in my 93 mustang. Thinking of going with the Hertz DCX 130.3 (5 1/4's) but would like to hear what other people have gone with. I will be replacing the factory amp with a Rockford Fosgate R2-300x4. I have a JVC KW-M56BT radio Hertz Dash and Rear speakers installed currently.
I have an 03 Mach 1with an 01 cobra engine with 28k on the engine. I'm going to put a Vortech V3sci supercharger on it. I wanted to know if it was worth the insurance (not leaning the motor) to put the 03-04 cobra fuel tank and pumps in it as well? If you think it is, is the plumbing, electrical, connectors basically drop in from the cobra to the Mach? Thanks for any help, suggestions, or advice. Sherm
I have code of PO303. I replace the ignition coil, wires plugs fuel filter fuel regulator and the fuel injector. ND I still have this code. Can anyone tell me what other things can I do to get rid of this dang code. Oh and I done a fuel pressure test and that is all good. Getting spark aswell check for that aswell.
this is a very solid no rust car has 14987 miles on it.nice 4130 roll cage that was certified at one time.car has stock front and rear suspension,small cowl glass hood,weld 4 lug drag lites,nice frame connectors etc.also has small flairs front and back done in steel.NO sunroof or t-tops to leak and fall off.great car to build.need to sell.asking $6,000.located in southern california.message thru the forum for more pics and contact.
I'm getting some vibration at 70-76 mph. Absolutely no vibration above or below these speeds. I can hear it and feel it on my shifter. It is a very fast vibration, so its unlikely to be a tire or brake. It is still present with clutch in. The vibration is so fast, the numbers on my shift stick look blurry. U-joints are in great shape. Any ideas?
Well this day is FINALLY HERE. I’m now retired and ready to start a restoration on my Mustang. Little history. Purchased this car a few years ago. It’s a coupe. It has a 347 Stroker built by summit racing. Only has about 20 miles on it. Hurst 4 speed. 4/11 posi rear end. Did a few upgrades, stainless fuel tank,new alum radiator w/new fan blade and shroud. Couldn’t even idle without overheating. Much better now. All new wheels and tires. Will change later at completion. Spent last few years gathering parts OEM that I felt I needed. This car is gutted literally. Starting ground up. TO MY FIRST QUESTION- The floor pans are not rotted but look pieced in and I would like to put in a new one piece pan and “torque boxes”. I can source the welding out but I would like to do the cut out and fitting. I do however need some guidance or video that would describe in detail the process. Any help or suggestion would be very appreciated. I tried you tube and many other sources but none have really shown all the steps and CAUTIONS to look out for.
Thank You again for any help you can offer.
Dave (Cleveland Ohio area)
Basic 351 swap. I keep reading that 5.0 use a 50oz balance weight and 5.8 use 28oz.
I got my donor from a 1995 F-150 the flex plate matches my torque convertor bolt hole. Does this mean I don't
have to change my balancer or flex plate?
So my window on my driver side and my 2017 has intermittently stopped working and now has totally stopped working and my passenger window is starting to do the same. Not sure if it’s the switch but I have checked all fuses and it doesn’t seem to be the issue. Just wondering if anybody else has experienced this?
I've been wanting to buy a new truck and love the F150's with the 5.0. I've driven them here at work (collision repair facility) and really like the looks of them and the power of the 5.0. I've been driving my 2000 Tacoma TRD V6 for almost 20 years and really want to upgrade. The Tacoma is bulletproof, has not ever given me any problems at all since I owed it. All the major stuff has been done to it, timing belt (second one,) all new front suspension, fuel pump, fuel injectors, coil packs, etc. I had the compression checked on the motor six months ago when I did the fuel injectors and it tested remarkably well for the mileage, 251,000 miles.
I've been doing research on the new or newer F150's and read that the 10 speed transmission can do some weird things and cause people a hell of a lot of grief. Jerking, clunking, not shifting, going into limp mode, and just blowing up in general. I've always been a Ford guy and really like those trucks and would love to have one. But, after days of researching them I'm a little scared to pull the trigger on one.
So, I'm wondering if any of you gentlemen own one and what your experiences are with them. Can you fill me in?
As I get older and slower, I'm beginning to undo previous modifications (mutilations?) I've done to my vehicles. In that vein, I'm looking to swap out the long tubes on my '95 Cobra for shorty headers. While I'm at it, I was thinking that I would look into getting my EGR functional again. The good news is that Rock Auto has nearly everything I would need with the exception of the vacuum reservoir that mounts under the fender and the EGR tube itself.
Does anyone know what the specs are on the flare, the fittings threads, and the length and diameter of the tube? If nothing else, I could probably have a tube fabricated if I can get this info.
Its been a while since I've owned a mustang but now having a 16yo I felt like we could get a bit of a project going. We found an '06 Redfire GT with several tasteful and appreciated upgrades already done to it recently and have been making improvements as time and money permits. I've come across a few quirks and issues and took to forums like this one to help me solve them. I hope to share my take on a few of the issues that don't seem to have solid resolutions and overall contribute positively to discussions. Anyway, glad to be a part of the group.
Need help trying to identify what this noise is coming from hose which leads to throttle body. I removed the hose and am still hearing it. I also believe it's contributing to a rough idle almost causing my car to stall. Any input is appreciated! -2003 Mustang GT/ 4.6L/ 60,000 Miles/ Manual
I have been wanting to make some new interior parts for the 69 -70 sports roof . The rear fold down fiberglass panels i already have ,i found a nearly perfect set to make my molds . This is the first set ,but the next sets will be in black .
the first trick was to find somthing to re texture panels ,i found a texture paint at home depot and its a very close match to original .
I've had this car since day 1, off the lot. 1989 LX 5.0 5sp convertible. It's now got 190K miles on it and it runs as well as the day I bought it (with the expected maintenance) but recently, it started doing a weird thing.
I replaced the slosh module in the dash with a solid state one from NPD. That corrected several issues I was having with the gauges. Then it got a 2.5" set of tail pipes as the OEMs were rusted into a jig saw puzzle. I replaced the sender and the fuel pump.
The car gets 21 mpg at 70ish down the freeway.
The weird thing? If I top off the fuel tank, put 13.5 gallons in it, it'll occasionally die, like someone is killing the power to the entire car. It did it once on the freeway at 75mph and I noticed that the tach signal disappeared, then came back when it started back up like nothing had happened. If I'm going 15mph. The car will die completely, sometimes it'll restart, sometimes it wont.
But once it burns off that top couple gallons of gas, it runs perfectly again. I'm good with schematics. but I'm not connecting these dots. I'm missing something.
If I only put 10 gallons of gas in it. It's as reliable as the day is long.
Had a random rattle, found a weld on the driver's catalytic converter pre-heater heat shield was broken. Noticed that the heat shield has a nearly perfectly round hole in it, the size of maybe a dime, with rust another 1/8 around the hole. Something was sticking out of the hole and I started poking at it... it sounded like a leaf or something but it turned out to be some foil / tin along w/this crumbly / powdery substance pictured below.
I presume it's insulation of some sort...
if not, any idea what it is / what it's made of / what is it's function?
Also, are there any sensors / wires that plug into the pre-heaters?
Need to ask you for help.
I recently purchased a new evaporator, condensor, receiver/dryer, new lines going to the compressor. I did not replace the pressure switch, compressor and the line going from the compressor to the evaporator. That is the only three items I did not change. What do I need to do that does not cost too much money to upgrade to R134. I know the evaporator is already R134 because it is smaller but what about the rest?
Do I need a different pressure switch and different valves for the compressor?