hello everyone,

My daily driver died so i have been driving my 68 while i search for a replacement. new england winters can get pretty cold so i rebuilt the heater box, but i still dont get much warm air out of it. to provide some technical info about the car, i have a 1990 5.0 swap but converted it back to carburetor using a summit brand weiand warrior knockoff intake. im also running a standard rotation water pump. i purchased a brand new brass heater core from NPDLink, as well as the fitting that goes into the intake with the extension tube on the bottom. i rebuilt my heater box using a gasket kit and contact cement to glue the gaskets to their appropriate areas in the box (and yes, i put gaskets on both sides of the door flaps). when the car is up to running temp, the defroster vents are warm at best, and the vent that blows at your feet is pretty much cold all the time. i have provided a list of links to all the parts i purchased and used hoping someone sees where i went wrong. the car also got a new thermostat last year when i put the motor in, but only put a few hundred miles on it at most.

intake manifold - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-226030
heater core - https://www.npdlink.com/product/heater-core-oe-style-copper/146337/200457?year=1968
heater core ends - https://www.npdlink.com/product/end-cap-seal-heater-core/103093/200457?year=1968
gasket kit - https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-set-heater-box/103210/200457?year=1968
intake fitting - https://www.npdlink.com/product/connection-heater-hose-zinc-dichromate/206393/203317?year=1968
plenum - https://www.npdlink.com/product/heater-plenum/103050/200458?year=1968
defrost hose - https://www.npdlink.com/product/defroster-ducts/178786/200458?year=1968
control cables - https://www.npdlink.com/product/cable-heater-temperature/103098/200459?year=1968

Does any know where I can get this white piece or the correct piece? I was told it’s not correct.

What modifications are needed to use the transmission from an 04 mustang GT in my 1999 GT? From what I’ve gathered off the truck sites they’re something going on with the speed sensors. Does this also apply to the mustang?

Hey guys I have a 04 V6 just got the car back after awhile and noticed there is a significant grinding noise when I let off the gas near the front of the car it sounds like help needed first mustang owner

I'm currently having issues when I put my mustang in drive it stalls out. If left in r n or p it idles fine. If I give it gas it will run fine in d and hit into n while stopping it will idle fine. Then I can drive like this but keeping it in drive without revving or driving it will shut down. So far I replaced the iac, the spark plug wires, spark plugs are fairly new, new battery, alternator, water pump, ac. I'm scatching my head and I'm thinking it's either the tps or speed sensor I have some pics please help me the stupid emissions are coming.

This camshaft was removed from my 302 and I have been unable to find any information on it. Any help would be appreciated. I have called COMP and they were unable to tell me anything.

Thanks in advance!!!

Some of the numbers are the following

0019SS, 201824, 449358, 44-07-01

What’s the easiest way to install the led bulbs and know that they are all in the right way so that they’ll work?

Also, which bulbs would you guys who have done the conversion recommend leaving as halogens? I’ve seen some say they leave the hight beams and blinkers as halogens because they’re too bright as leds.

Hey, I'm putting my engine in after a long long time and I can't remember the best method. I did it when I was 16 but don't remember how I did it. I trried putting the engine in without the transmission but the headers are in the way. I think I need to connect the transmission first but what about the headers. When do they go in. I'll keep trying but if any if you have done this recently I would love to hear how it went. Thanks!

I am trying to pinpoint the reason for my fox body's slow starting condition. It cranks every time, but is a slow crank and sounds like one of those cars where you're crossing your fingers hoping it fires up. I've done the below wiring upgrades mainly to support the new alternator, but was hoping it would help with the slow start condition:

• SVE 130A alt.
• Alt power wire to battery positive - 4 gauge.
• Battery negative to engine block - 4 gauge.
• Battery positive to starter solenoid - 4 gauge.
• Body ground beside battery to a/c mounting bracket - 4 gauge. I don't know if this is the stock location or if it's even a good ground. This replaced a small frayed wire that was in place when I got the car.
• Starter solenoid to starter - 4 gauge.

I have not tested the battery but it is only 2 years old. Replaced by previous owner when he put it up for sale. Spark plugs are fresh and clean, and the car has a new-ish ignition coil and PDI billet distributor. I have not messed with the starter or starter solenoid.

Car holds 14.3-14.4v at idle with all accessories on.

Even though it starts reliably, I don't want it to sound old and tired. Any tips on what I can test or troubleshoot to track this down?

Car: 1987 GT 5.0 speed density motor
My fuel pump won't shut off when I turn the car on. And if I don't start the car fast enough, fuel will start shooting out some injectors.

I've replaced:
Fuel pump relay
ECM/ECU ( and it is grounded solid )
Fuel pressure regulator
Injectors

Nothing online I've read has the same problem where the pump is forcing fuel out the injectors. I've cleaned and put new injectors in and they held back the pressure for a moment and then it got forced out again. I'm at a loss.

My 2005 Roush stage 1 has the Roush exhaust that has a great sound. I noticed the other day that when decelerating the car does not go to full deceleration until about 3 seconds after getting off the gas. The exhaust has a nice rumble at that point.
I had a 2002 GT that I inserted a small washer in the IAC tube that made it go to full deceleration instantly. On that car however the hanging idle was noticeable when shifting and general driving. The 2005 seems to shift perfect with no noticeable hang at all. It would just be nice if it went to the burble as soon as you let off the throttle.

Okay guys need some help here… I have a 1986 LX 5.0 that was converted from an AOD to a t5. All guages work however the cluster/hvac illumination only works when the car is put into reverse. Almost like it’s completing a ground at the switch. Coincidentally my reverse lights do not work at all. Verified I have power to the housings and verified bulbs were good. I’m completely thrown for a loop here. Also for more detail the Clutch Switch is still bypassed because I don’t see the jumpers, car starts without clutch in. So far I have put a new trans wiring harness in, a new reverse light switch, and a new headlight dimmer switch. Thanks guys, any information helps.


ALSO the car is on a holley terminator x system if that matters

I'm swapping 88' 302 with world class T5 into 82' that was inline 6 with automatic. I am almost through all of the wiring and down to the black 8 pin connector from the transmission.

I'm looking for details on wiring from that connector into the 82 harness.

Hello I have some question for the body I have a 90 5.0 hatch. I hit a car with the front passenger side the only thing that looked like it got affected was the glass fiber bumper support but now that everything is put together the driver side fog light is a little for out is there a way to fix it?

Also how to align the fenders or do I just push it in to bend it

Good Afternoon folks;

I hope you had a great new years. I need your expertise with a stuck power steering rack on my 93 foxbody (picture attached). The passenger side is pulling out fine. The driver side is stuck to the bushing and I am not able to pull the rack out of the K-member. My question is, do anybody has a suggestion to pull the rod out of the bushing besides hammering the rod out of the K-member??

I have had this problem for close to 1.5 months and any suggestion will be greatly appreciate it. I was thinking about reversing a power steering and alternator pulley puller. Again, please let me know you suggestions please.

Thanks
-Max

Trying to put this somewhat of a kit back together that I got third hand! Can someone point me in the direction of where these hoses are actually supposed to go to work correctly? The top one right now is going to a t to the intake manifold and the other end of it to the fuel reg?? The bottom hose goes to the intake pipe before the throttle body presently? Is that correct?

I'm going to try this out. I acknowledge the potential for this thread to go sideways but I'm going to try it anyway because I think it will be fun!

Rules in the next post.



What would [you] pay for this car?







It's claimed to be an original 10,000-mile car.

Mecum Kissimmee kicks off today. In the opening preview of the auction they went over a bunch of featured collections that are going to attract a lot of attention and one of them was a really nice Fox Body Mustang collection. Not sure what day and time it’s gonna cross but definitely excited to see how they do.

I'm new, i have a 2002 GT with a parasitic drain. It is narrowed down to the MAXI Fuse 7 in the Engine bay and Fuse 37 under the drivers side. Does anybody have a wiring diagram they they could share? I'm trying to find out what exactly Fuse 37 powers so i can try to find the drain.

I'm adding over the winter gt40 heads upgraded springs and trickflow stage 1 camshaft. I already have professional products upper amd lower 70mm throttle body lightning maf Cai electric fans t5 373. Should I add 24
24lbs injectors? My car is already dyno tuned with a chip. Made 251hp 295 torq to the wheels. What do you think ill see after the heads and cam upgrade?

I've currently got a bone stock 5.0 5-speed car that I use as my daily driver with a 2.73 rear gear. This is perfect for me because I do a lot of highway miles and it keeps the rpm very low, so its quiet and I get good fuel economy. However, I'm currently building another engine with ported GT40 heads and intake with a stock bottom end. I'm wondering if I should keep the stock cam since it will probably suit my needs better, or if I can upgrade the cam while still retaining the ability to cruise at around 1300rpm on the freeway without issues. I would like the added power of a cam but I would prioritize drivability because it is my daily.

Hi,
I am wondering how to get black hard weatherstripping off of a vinyl top on my 65 mustang.
It si also on the paint as well. Didn’t notice it when I bought it. GHAAA! Thank you. I hope someone can answer this for me.

Hi there all
Been watching a few mustang websites love the topics/ diacussions
On this forum.

After over 45 years in love with mustangs
(I am a truck guy ) I finally am having a 68 built….. hoo ra !

Love to say i am doing my self but .. not.
Any ways i was involved with specing out as i have always wanted.

First of all, thank you everyone with the help with the threads Ive created. I dont have a lot of knowledge on these old ford cars either than a crown vic, and everyone has been super helpful with helping me fix up a 5.0 5 speed Ive wanted for a while. The only 2 things stopping me from driving this thing are the brakes and steering. Theres a big leak coming from the hoses going to the rack from them not being tight. I just installed my steering pump and now im trying to tighten these lines, but they seem almost impossible to get to without removing this steering rack. Anyone know how i can remove/tighten these lines without completely taking the rack down?