Took the fox to a shop to get the leaky rear main seal replaced. When I got it back it was still leaking. Shop owner said no problem I took it back and he changed it again for me. I have the car again now and it’s still dripping! Are there any tips for this or maybe a certain rear main seal to buy that I should now about or bring to him when I go the third time?

Bought LizardKing 2002's old true blue stang.
This is my third New Edge... i absolutely love these things!
Looking forward to learning more about my car, she was in rough shape!

When i start the car it will idle ok but then when i pull the headlight knob it will drop the voltage. Any ideas?

I bought these led interior bulbs from Auxito for my 17 Mustang to replace the center-most roof mounted light - as that was the only one out. I replaced them in my doors, in my trunk, my license plate illumination light, my map lights (forward-most roof mounted lights) and then I get the one that was actually out... And it doesn't fit.

These fit every bulb in my interior (including some in my Instrument Cluster) - except for the one I actually needed. I can't dock them stars because I didn't properly verify that this was not actually what I needed - but with that said I am happy with the performance and ease of instillation that these had. They're very bright and quite nicely illuminate my interior, especially when I go out to my car in the morning.

Hi guys, glad to join this forum. So I purchased my 2017 Ford Mustang GT MT brand new. Unfortunately with around 500 miles on the odometer it was rear ended at a red light. It was fixed but ever since then (or maybe always, since it was basically brand new), I've had some strange electrical issues. It's probably happened 10-20 times since I've owned the car and it has a couple of different symptoms.

Basically I'll try to start it and it doesn't even attempt to start and throws a code that there is a steering assist fault. I have disconnected the battery and had it start right up afterwards. But I normally don't do that because it clears the codes and the dealership won't do anything without a code (they don't do anything anyway, it's why I'm here).

At the same time, or maybe preceding the above issue, my lights go haywire. It's usually my headlights that just turn on. They usually go off if I lock my car, but not always. But they will go back on eventually, even if the headlights are off and not on automatic. Occasionally headlights, brake lights, and reverse lights go haywire and start turning on and flickering. This will eventually kill the battery. Most of the time it will jump, sometimes it won't start even after a jump.

I've read of people having similar issues related to the battery not properly grounded or water leaking in through the front passenger fender affecting some cpu. But the dealer has investigated and said there's no issue (I haven't sanded down the ground on passenger strut tower nor investigated that specific cpu, but I probably will).

So... Any advice on what to troubleshoot or a scanner capable of picking up some related codes? I'm close to reaching out to a lawyer regarding lemon laws, but honestly I don't want to buy a new car in this market. I just want my car to work. Thanks for reading my sad story.

Is there a way to take out this little mesh filter or do I just push it down when I’m sucking out the old fluid with a turkey Baster. I’m trying to pull it out with a pick but it seems like it doesn’t want to come out.

Hey guys, Just a quick question i'm hoping someone may know the answer too. I have an '88 convertible, and I've swapped out the rear interior quarter panels to the newer 90-93 style. I know the 87-89 boot cover will probably not work because of the new quarter trims's, but I'm wondering if the 90-93 convertible top boot will work?? if anyone has done this please let me know your findings!

Thanks

looking for black or blue 87-93 gt tail lights looking to pay about 100 for the pair

On my journey of this 1986 GT Vert, I only have 2 things wrong with the car keeping it from drivable, that being steering pump and my brakes. I have the steering pump taken care of, but the brakes im a little confused on. The brakes ONLY work when the pedal is to the ground, but when you jab at the pedal, it will toughen up and brake better. I cant tell if its the brake booster or the brakes needing to be bled. Theres great vacuum going to the brake booster, but I dont know how to test it either than that. Is there a guaranteed way to test it without just dumping money on a new brake booster?

I am on the hunt for a white 1983 gt preferably running. I had one in high school many stangs ago and have always wanted another. Unfortunately, it was hit and stripped and crushed. Here’s a few pics of my 83 back in 99. Let me know what you’ve got!!
I’m in Colorado but willing to travel. Thanks!!

I need some help with my 1992 Mustang Gt 5.0L. I recently installed a new clutch, rebuilt the 5-speed, new headers & had the heads rebuilt. While the heads were off I put new o-rings & caps on the fuel injectors, installed a new timing chain, high volume oil pump, new rear main seal, plugs, cap & rotor.

Now that it’s all back together I fired it up and for some reason it has a stumble/hesitation when I stab the throttle, but if I work the throttle normally (slower than stabbing it) it doesn’t stumble. However, when shutting it off and restarting it, it doesn’t want to start unless I put the pedal to the floor. I ran the codes and I’m getting a 96 code (Fuel pump secondary circuit fault/high speed fuel pump relay open).

So correct me if I’m wrong, but having to put the gas pedal on the floor to get it to start, isn’t that a flooding issue and that’s how you get it to stop adding fuel so it will start? Would flooding cause the stumble/hesitation when I stab the throttle? If it’s flooding, did I damage a fuel injector when installing new o-rings? Or do you think it’s a fuel pump relay issue? Any ideas where to start looking?

Got an 08 gt with a 4.6 loaded with supposedly a 2011 coyote supercharger! No throttle and have tried new plugs/new 60mm throttle body/new high flow injectors/new high flow fuel pump. Starts idles high for a few seconds then idles down till It dies! So, shooting in the dark that the seals are used up and decided I’d replace them. This combo weighs a good 50-60 lbs!!! . I cannot for the life of me find THIS intake anywhere! Just trying to figure out what I truly have? Don’t know the correct routing for the little canister on the back which is connected to intake vacuum and the other I think goes to the intake tube before the throttle body?

Are these from week 32 of 2009? Tires came on some wheels I purchased,, I knew they would be temporary , but as I am installing them today the cracks and weatherchecking makes me think VERY temporary.....

I have a 98 gt and I had taken it to the dyno and while on one of the last pulls, the car shut off because it had run out of fuel. Once we tried to start it again the CCRM started to buzz for about 2-3 seconds. Turned the key to the run position and noticed that the fuel pump does not stop priming and the low speed fan cuts on and stays on. This is all happening with key in run position.

The car will start but the pump runs all the time with key on. And the fan stays on. Obviously a problem here.

Anyone have any ideas as to what it could possibly be? I have done many checks but i need some help with this. Has anyone else had this exact issue? Appreciate any help!

I have stock headers with a catless x-pipe and stock mufflers. I love how the car sounds but it gets too loud when I don't want it to and is a ticket magnet the second there are cops around. I have been researching the Valvetronic universal muffler kit and was wondering if anyone has run this setup on the new edge or has any experience with it. I really wanna pull the trigger but with the steep price tag, I want to make sure the noise is reduced enough to make the price point worth it.

Steeda has some good pricing right now so if you were looking for anything on their site it might be a good time to get it. Adjustable clutch cable is what got me looking.

I have done the whole check list and my Mustang still will not start! It cranks but no start and no spark. Any info/help will be appreciated.

This just started. It's really wet here right now. Rain that's freezing.

A while back I would have strange electrical problems where when the car was frozen and I would hit the unlock driver door button from the inside the horn would honk a single honk. Almost guaranteed when it's frozen here.

Now this just started where I've turned off my car and locked it and then a couple minutes later my alarm goes off. I have to leave the door unlocked so it won't go off.

I'm thinking there's a short to metal somewhere but have no idea where to start.

Any suggestions?

I'm reinstalling my injector/ sensor harness on my 96 vert and I'm not sure if the harness goes underneath the EGR tube and inside of the fuel rails or above the tube and outside and above the fuel rails. Reason I'm not sure is the fact that I got this car with the harness removed. Can somebody please help me out thanks so much.

So...I basically just lucked into a 1990 Mustang 5.0 GT.

I know almost nothing about what I've got other than it's got a half-cage, 3.73 gearing, larger fuel injectors, race pump (may have had a Procharger or Supercharger on it at some point)....

Anyway; I have a lot to learn about this car when it finally gets here, no idea what I'm going to do with it yet to be honest...

I want do do an H pipe on my exhaust with no cats, but its hard to find anything like that. Can anyone point in the right direction for buying a catless h pipe or resources for welding up my own?

LMK what you got, prefer something local to central FL, will pay for shipping if need be.

Nearly at the end of the tkx swap. This is what my tech is running into. Trans is mounted, needing to get the exhaust mounted to wrap it up.

this is an aod to tkx swap. It’s an aftermarket off road H pipe that was in the car before. Nothing exhaust wise has changed. It has aftermarket shorty headers. It does NOT have long tubes.

We have the stifflers mount, the spacer kit, and manual exhaust hanger.

The order is crossmember,spacer , trans mount,exhaust hanger, bushing .

The issue is when the exhaust is in the hanger it pulls the exhaust way down where it won’t mate with the headers and the backside pushes into the floorboards.

Does anyone know if mid pipes have different hangers for auto/manual ?

Anyone have experience with the tkx, stiffers set up? Maybe we have the parts out of order. Any help is appreciated.

Howdy all! Long time, no see. Been a bit crazy with life. I had my busiest year ever at work, had carpel tunnel surgery on one hand, my daughter is on 3 cheer teams at a very competitive level, my wife and I have been traveling a ton, blah, blah, blah.

Anyway, to the Mustang.

I will be replacing the head gaskets on my motor. I’m going with Felpro 9333’s, that’s what’s on it now and it’s lasted for damn near a decade. I had the motor assembled when I had the stroker kit done, that’s what they used.

I’m thinking that I’ll just use ARP head bolts, not studs. I won’t be throwing boost at this motor anytime soon, so I think I’m ok with just bolts.

Anything else I should do at the same time?

Also, any good reference material? I don’t mind buying a book if one is better than another for my current needs. I thought I remembered reading a good write up on this website or Corral on the subject, including pictures and torquing procedure. Many thanks in advance, my friends.

When I had my windows tinted, I was told that parts inside my doors would eventually cut into the tint. They mentioned there are devices for some cars that will prevent that from happening. Is anyone familiar with a device that would do that for our cars? I plan on replacing all my speakers soon so if there is something I can install, that would be a good time to do it.