Recently bought an '89 SSP. It has minor mods; Edelbrock intake, GT40P heads, headers, etc. It had some pretty serious lifter/rocker noise. Pulled the valve covers and found most of the rockers are REALLY lose. I ordered new hydraulic lifters and I need to get the correct length push rods. I bought the measurement tool, but once I get the "zero lash" measurement should I add any length to preload the lifters since they are new? I have read/watched quite a few procedures, but none of them address my specific situation. The car ran good, but just trying to fix A LOT of upgrade sins that were committed by one of the previous owners. Thanks in advance.

Ok so probably waaaaaay more trouble then it's worth, but for knowledge purposes...

96 GT 4.6 5 spd, how the heck does a man get rid of the coil packs and spark plugs wires?

To get a 3v coil on plugs set up to work would I pretty much need to change out my entire wiring harness since the 2v and 3v wiring is different? What other nightmares am I going to face during this process haha???

Recently purchased a 2001 cobra. Planning on doing autocross, high speed ax, and track days. Looking for some help in getting good alignment numbers for the car other than stock if needed. It has been lowered 1.5” but no other suspension mods. It will not be a dedicated track car, I’ll be driving it to and from events (maybe 3-4 per year)
Any help would be appreciated

It's a brand new Stewart Warner Wings electric oil pressure gauge. When I turn the key to 'on' it stays at zero but as soon as I hit 'start' the gauge pegs at 80 psi and stays there. However, after I start it once, then shut it off, if I turn it to 'on' again then it pegs at 80. If I let it sit an hour then go back and try again when I turn it to 'on' then it stays at zero. Very strange!
I removed the SW and installed a cheap, brand new, mechanical gauge and oil press shoots to 62 at start up then drops to 50 after a minute or two. So I have the proper pressure. I've replaced the factory electric sending unit with an Echlin piece from NAPA. I installed a new wire. I even sent the SW gauge back to Summit and they sent me another one. All 3 components in the circuit are new and it still does the same thing.
There're 3 terminals on the back of the gauge. 'G' goes to a dedicated ground, 'S' goes to the sending unit and 'I' goes directly to the 'IGN' terminal on the back of the ignition switch.
Drivetrain and harness from a '93.

I'm at a loss! Any ideas?

It won't be for everybody but keep in mind you could use a big aluminum Windsor head instead


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Jeeze... I'd drop this into a Granada without a second thought!



Just cam across this Ghia 3.0 coupe. Didn't even know there was such a thing

I cross threaded the threads for one of the bolts that holds the throttle cable bracket on my 92 GT. They make a m8x1.25 thread repair kit which is the size I need. However the size of the new threads/coil is about .49 inches, while the bolt is about .75 inches. Do I need to get a coil that is the same length or does it not matter.

Anyone have a used 2001 4.6 intake for sale? Oem and frp are all back ordered and these dormans leak and don’t flow coolant properly. Can’t seem to find one anywhere.

Brand new (installed, never driven) set of AJE Caster camber plates.

These will work for any foxbody not just mustangs. Retail for $239

asking $150+shipping

Hi everybody,
please have a look to the attached VIN TAG, is it true that about 400 Mustang was built/assembled in Amsterdam in Holland an not in USA ?

Thanks,
Vito

So the entire time I've owned my GT I've been stuck at 2.0X 60ft's, being able to get a few 1.9X's. My first attempt to remedy this was 255mm Toyo R888's, I still spun with just 260~ hp. Thought new shocks would help, put strange 10 way adjustables on it and the reccomended drag settings, still spinning. Still trying to chase down this issue, looking at springs and rear control arms. It is a 5 speed car with a stage 1 exedy clutch and still has the stock 3.08 gears. (the posi works it has fresh clutch packs)

91 GT, I just changed the dash cluster…car is new to me and the cluster was not original, but it did work. I bought another cluster, 140 mph speedometer which I believe is correct for the car. The tach drops to 0 when the key goes on but jumps to 4000 RPM when the engine starts. It moves up a little when revving engine but it isn’t working properly at all. All other gauges seem to work normally….except speedo bounces around 40mph. Any ideas in getting this squared away? All help or tips are appreciated. Thanks!

Need some advise on which intake to get, the current one is leaking at the sensor. I bought a doorman and nothing but leaks on driver side rear of the intake. Would like something that actually uses a gasket vs the round o-rings found on aftermarket. I’m learning that oem is what is needed for this part to seal properly but they are back ordered. The vehicle is a 2001 4.6 2v gt. Appreciate the replies.

*** or can I use oem gaskets as well as the o-rings on bottom of doorman ? That would solve my issue

Took the cowl grille off for the first time to check for any rust and it looks pretty clean to me. Does anyone notice anything to be of concern? Also should I bother coating this area with some sort of rust preventer?

The jam nut is so small and very recessed in between the handle and shift knob that I am unable to get a wrench around it. Any ideas on what I could do?

Some very rare '71 Mustangs in this collection!

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I fried the Tachometer on the (after market) Rally Pac in my 65 Coupe. I do not want to pay $300 to replace just the tachometer.
Does anyone know of an after market tachometer that will fit into the housing bowl and look decent. If you do Please send the specific information to me so I can buy one.
ALSO: If you happen to have a old tachometer (non-resistor type) that was in a rally pac, and would like to sell it, please contact me Thanks
Dana Wood
[email protected]

Hi, I'm new from this group, my name is Vito and I'm writing you from Milan in Italy

I'm just about to buy a 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible, can anyone please help deconding this VIN and chassis number ?

• 76A X D6 10E 37 6 6
• 6T08C261469

Thanks a lot,
Vito

Is there any list or chart that shows all the various OEM Steering Wheels that have come in the Foxbody? The 87-93 cars are pretty simple. The 79-86 though....ummm. I've had a bunch of these cars and the 4 eyed ones all had various styles. Maybe if any of you have pictures and are totally sure of the year (and maybe GT, GL, etc) you could post them. Unless I missed it, which is highly possible, there's no resource for this.
Have at it!

Hello, I found a short on my car (90 5.0 hatchback) and because it had to do with the dome light switch( i think) I went for a long time and burnt the cables from the connection to the dome light so I was going to run new wires but is there only two cables or three or is it The same diagram for all fuse 8

Can we talk about 'other" brands in the off topic section here?
Battled this question 20 plus years ago when my good pal bought a new Lightning and Ford said use 0-20 oil in it?? We were like "cmon, its friggin supercharged??

I have a 2020 chevy truck with a 3 liter diesel and GM wants you to use 0-20 Dexos D oil.......
LIving in Florida we really don't have to deal with too many cold mornings so I always wonder about using this watery oil when it comes to oil change time which is where we are at........ I found some 5-30 Dexos D at Amsoil today and would like to use it....
I know there are some factory wrenches on here and I believe even a couple of GM workers.......
Any thoughts by any here?? thanks

Hi everyone, hope you all had a great Christmas! So I'm relatively new to tuning and have gotten my car to the point where it will start and idle ok. The main problem I'm having is dialing in my warm-up idle. At first, it would oscillate so bad when first started cold, that it would need to be restarted 4 or 5 times before it would stay running, at which point it would oscillate pretty bad. Once it was fully warm, it wouldn't oscillate as much, but it would still be there. I played with a combination of adjusting the VE table and spark table until it didn't really oscillate that much. Then I adjusted the WUE and PWM idle warm up and that fixed the bad oscillation during cold start, but it idles pretty darn high until it starts warming up and then gradually falls to around where I want it to idle. Looking at my logs, it looks like my timing is pretty high when its cold, so I was thinking that I may want to retard the timing through the Cold Advance, until it started warming to, to help bring the idle down. Just wanted to see it that makes sense and/or if someone could look at my tune and log to see if anything jumps out or looks grossly wrong. Anyway, I appreciate any help you can give. Hopefully all the info you need on my car is in my sig, but please let me know if you need anything else.

ok gotta answer the machine shop guy soon. He wants to know do I want main girdle. Do I? asked 20oz or 50oz damper, shaft and flywheel? I dont know. I figured just go with the stock 50oz stuff. said if I was gonna change do it now...why?

I thought about a girdle but dont think I need it. I heard of concrete in the block to the middle of the freeze plugs and temps stay good. Will this make the block stronger?

I think to put in a main girdle it will hang to low into oil pan. my crossmember was clearenced for the oil pan as it is.

They are concerned about splitting the block or the flywheel coming through the floor.

Being done to it..
Making a 347! Not a full blown crazy one. New forged wiseco pistons, eagle crank. I plan on keeping it low profile using the stock efi, upper and lower. Stock ecm. Port matching and maybe some nice rockers and a bumpity managable cam. Now in my reasoning I see it as smaller than a 351. And I have never been impressed by a 351 stock. So I see it as smaller than that, but they seem erring on thesafe side I appreaciate that but where I can save money I gotta!

Time is running out so if you gottsome thoughts please add them. I will be going into more detail in my build posted below....its not a stang, its a stang prototype! with a 89 ho a t5 and 3.79s in the back.

Thanks for your time.

I am currently in the process of having a 347 stroker built and the engine is completely removed. Unfortunately, the shop put both windows down when they yanked the engine out.

With that said, I should be able to pull the fuse for the fuel pump and starter, hook up the battery, and then put the windows back up without any issues right?

Your help is much appreciated!

Hello Everyone!
I just recently bought a 1995 Mustang GT with the 5.0L 5speed. Car has about 150k miles on it and it's in a bit of rough shape.
I bought it non running as I want to bring it back to life and have a enjoyable summer vehicle.
My issue is the car will crank but will not start. The fuel tank is already off the car (bought it like that), so I am just using a little starting fluid when trying to make sure it'll fire. I used an inline spark tester and I am not getting a spark from the coil to the dizzy or from dizzy to spark plugs.
I have been doing as much research as I can and found a video showing I should be getting a CEL when the key is to the on position. I am not getting a CEL. I have checked the bulb to make sure it's not burnt out and it looks good. I have checked both EEC fuses on the car and they look good. PCM from the passenger side kick panel was already pulled out, so I unscrewed it and made sure there were no burn marks on the PCB. Any suggestions on what I should be looking into would be awesome! I don't want to waste money on parts that aren't going towards getting the car to start as of now.
Thanks,
Colt

Hello, Having trouble installing the convertible top frame. It is sitting to forward on the passenger side. Any help here knowing how to adjust this or is the specific measurement for this?

Thanks for any help,
Gregg